Tortas el Rey

Clean, friendly and strictly utilitarian Tortas El Rey offers something like 20 varieties of tortas -- some blessedly simple, others impossibly florid. Although standards such as the Milanesa, the Mexicana and the Hawaiiana are done well here, the bad boy you really don't want to miss is the El Rey, a meat-heavy, falling-over stack of deliciousness composed of ham, melted mozzarella, pierna (sliced pork sirloin), milanese (breaded beef cutlet strips), sliced hot dog, egg omelet, refried beans, tomato, onion, avocado, escabeche, lettuce and maybe the kitchen sink ($7.99) Served with the usual ruffled chips, it's called "the king" for a reason.