The chef, Leo Madrigal, was born in Mexico City. He started cooking in the megalopolis as a teenager. He then left for Houston, and left Houston for Phoenix some 30 years ago. He tends to cook with the flavors of Mexico City and Oaxaca, but his style isn't strictly Mexican.
There is a taco menu, complete with the likes of steak, al pastor, achiote-rubbed chicken, and shrimp. There are enchiladas stuffed with fillings like beef birria and green chile pork. But there, too, are two pasta dishes, and a chicken breast with artichokes, mushrooms, and soy-mustard cream.
Appetizers skew more south of the border. Madrigal plates standbys like elote, queso fundido, quesadillas, made-to-order guacamole, and more.
Drinks revolve around that lime-green Southwestern star: the margarita.
The restaurant has 105 seats. After the summer, a patio will open. TVs are prominently displayed in corners, and there's a bar area in the back.
Cocina Madrigal. 4044 South 16th Street; 602-243-9000.
Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.