First Taste

Original Breakfast House: A.M. Eats and S.O.S. in Northeast Phoenix

When a new spot opens in town, we can't wait to check it out -- and let you know our initial impressions, share a few photos, and dish about some menu items. First Taste, as the name implies, is not a full-blown review, but instead a peek inside restaurants that have just opened, sampling a few items, and satisfying curiosities (yours and ours).

Restaurant: Original Breakfast House Location: 13623 North 32nd Street Open: One month Eats: American Price: $11 to $30 per person

Have you heard of the Original Breakfast House? No, not the Original Pancake House in Scottsdale (the one with the six-egg omelets and monstrous apple pancakes) -- the new place in northeast Phoenix, with the three-egg omelets and the S.O.S.*

See also: - Bink's Midtown Is a Must (Especially When It Comes to Veggies) - Chef Justin Beckett Opening Restaurant in Old Beef Eaters Building

From John Stidham, a restaurateur from northern California, the Original Breakfast House is Stidham's first restaurant in Arizona -- the state he wants "to try to retire."

Located at 13623 North 32nd Street (32nd Street and Thunderbird), OBH is a mostly "breakfast-centric" spot (there's lunch, too) featuring familiar American eats.

Two slices of blackberry French toast ($6.95) are probably closer to fried bread than eggy fried bread, the lack of batter making them dry. Better is the S.O.S.* ($7.95), or creamed beef over toast, an emblematic dish of the U.S. Army popularized around the 1930s and 1940s. Rarely seen on menus today, Stidham's version comes from a recipe from his father, a thick concoction of ground beef, cream, salt and pepper, parsley, and Worcestershire sauce over toasted bread. It won't be winning any beauty contests, but what it lacks in looks it makes up for in simple, satisfying flavor.

The OBH space, like its food, is straightforward and friendly. The spacious room, with its high, angled ceiling, muted tones, and (sometimes) the music of Iron Maiden blasting from the kitchen, plays host to couples, families, and friends from the area who've happily discovered a new breakfast place nearby. The staff still seem to be on a steep learning curve but try to be accommodating nonetheless.

In any case, OBH (and its S.O.S.) appear to be a nice addition to the neighborhood.

* S.O.S. = Shit on a Shingle.

Original Breakfast House 13623 North 32nd Street 602-482-2328

Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

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Laura Hahnefeld
Contact: Laura Hahnefeld