When it comes to chicken wings, a flavor can define a city.
When asked about the popularity of the iconic citrus heat that had become the wing staple of her city, Atlanta’s former mayor Keisha Lance Bottoms famously declared that “lemon pepper wings were Atlanta.” (A true Atlantan would know it’s specifically lemon-pepper wet, but that is another debate altogether.)
In the same vein, Memphis’s Donald Crump (real name, simpler time) and his Crumpy’s Hot Wings put honey gold on the map in the early 2000s, forever linking the tangy mustard and vinegar sweetness to that city. Of course, even the concept of buffalo wings themselves are inextricably tethered to the city of Buffalo, where they were (arguably) invented. Wings, it seems, have innovative touchpoints, creative evolutions, if you will, that are tied to their cities of origin.
But what about a strawberry hot flat? Or an elote-style drumette? Could these flavors become Phoenix’s wing thing? In efforts to make that happen, the Valley’s most unorthodox wing joint, Ace of Wingz, is opening a second location. The new spot is set to make its debut on the East side this summer, pushing wing aficionados' expectations of what a chicken wing can be, one six-piece at a time.
The second spot, which is taking over the former ATL Wings location on Thomas Road and shooting for a July 4 opening, will be a significant expansion for the restaurant, which started as a food truck in 2023 and then opened a take-out-centric location on 19th Avenue.
The newest spot will focus dine-in service, as well as offering unique menu items, adding to the roster of creative and eclectic wing selections that have put the business and its owner, chef Abion Acoy, on the city’s radar.
Acoy is as surprised as anyone that his crazy wing flavors took off.
“It’s wild to think that wings are what really made me popular," Acoy recalls. "I’d make wings here and there, but they were never my main focus. One day, my fiancée asked me to make her wings to take to work, and I did. When I posted the wings I made for her on social media, the reaction was surprising. I garnished them with parsley and plated them nicely, Gordon Ramsay-style, and that post went viral."
Soon people started reaching out via social media, wanting to buy the wings Acoy had posted. After a few orders were placed and delivered, the feedback convinced Acoy that he was onto something special.
“One day, I looked at traditional chicken wings and thought, ‘Why do they all look the same?’ I wanted to change that narrative and take wings to a new level,” Acoy says.
That’s when the idea hit him: What if he could make wings look like exotic, gourmet dishes by incorporating unique garnishes and presentation techniques?
From there, he started experimenting. He created an elote-style wing, with cotija cheese and lime, and posted the results. He soon realized that the more unconventional the flavors, the more excited people got. One day, while he was shopping with his fiancée, she grabbed strawberries and joked that they should do strawberry hot wings. They tried it, posted it, and it became a top contender for fan-favorite.
For Acoy, this was an epiphany. He had stumbled into a sacred food space and realized that there were actually no set boundaries when it comes to chicken wings. The search for the most delicious and expectation-defying wings became an obsession, and each batch of fried flats and drums became a canvas for creativity.
On July 6, 2021, Acoy posted what would become a life-changing post to Instagram. “Everyone said I should do it so fuck it I’m selling wings,” he wrote.
While the post's nonchalance might have led his followers to think the new venture was a whim on Acoy’s part, he admits that the decision was a turning point. He had been struggling with drinking and felt like he had hit rock bottom. The newfound wing obsession reignited his love for cooking, which acted as a catalyst for turning the passion into a business.
For someone who had always seen cooking as a way to channel his energy and creativity, Acoy's off-the-wall wings turned out to be the spark he needed to change direction in his life. While it may be unusual for a classically unhealthy dish like deep-fried chicken in spicy butter sauce to create a positive, healthy change in someone's life, it had a more positive impact on Acoy than he ever imagined. As his business got off the ground, the chef got sober.
“Sobriety gave me clarity and the discipline to push forward, to experiment, and to really invest in what I love: building this business and sharing my passion with others," Acoy says. "My journey of sobriety and entrepreneurship have become intertwined, fueling each other and inspiring me to keep growing, both personally and professionally."
His delivery business developed into a food truck in September 2023. From there, word-of-mouth and strong social media chatter led to his first physical location on 19th Avenue. In 2024, TikTok celebrity and self-proclaimed food influencer Keith Lee visited the Valley and asked his followers where he should stop and eat. More than 15,000 votes went to Ace of Wingz. Lee made good on his promise and sampled several of the more creative wing offerings on the menu.
While Lee was not a fan of the cherry or strawberry lemon pepper, he was incredibly complimentary of the traditional lemon pepper wing, which Acoy took as an overall net positive.
“No excuses, though I respect Keith Lee and remain a fan," Acoy says. "The impact was undeniable. His motive is to help struggling and mom-and-pop small businesses, and I feel that the fact that this was the first time he let the customers decide where he went really had a strong influence on how he approached my place."
Lee’s post has received more than 137,000 views and the restaurant trended online for two weeks straight.
Now, a year later, Acoy is preparing to open his second location.
Looking back on the growth of his wing joint three years post-“fuck it,” the trajectory humbles Acoy. He speaks often about taking care of his team and tucking in behind the cooking line to help tackle busy evening rushes.
“Running a small business in the food industry means that I have a responsibility to my team," Acoy says. "I want them to know that their hard work is appreciated and that their efforts are essential to our success, and at the end of the day, if you are supporting and uplifting those people, it’s going to show in the kitchen and in the business as a whole."
The combination of hard work, creative chutzpah and communication with his staff and customers seems to have paid off as the team looks forward to the grand opening of the second location. Acoy promises some second-spot-specific flavors and offerings, along with his popular seafood platters of fried shrimp and fish and chips. Acoy teases a future spin-off venture, Ace’s Fish and Chips, down the road.
As Ace of Wingz grows, Acoy hopes his unconventional, signature flavors are becoming staples in the city.
“These flavors — especially the strawberry hot — have a unique, bold identity that people love, and I definitely see them as part of Phoenix’s own wing legacy," he says. "And we’re just getting started."
Ace of Wingz
8052 N. 19th Ave.3923 E. Thomas Road - Opening July 4, 2 p.m. to 2 a.m.
