For more than two decades, Voltaire in Scottsdale served the same menu of classic French-inspired fare. Dishes like Beef bourguignon, oysters Rockefeller, and Duck a l'orange stayed, while restaurants elsewhere worked to incorporate buzzy concepts like "organic," "free range," and "all-natural" into the mix.
But in August, the restaurant reopened under a new name, The Brooklyn Cafe. And along with the new moniker, chef and owner David Antonelli introduced a new menu and design. The Brooklyn Cafe still appeals to the Voltaire customer base with top-notch service. But for newcomers, there's plenty to appreciate, too. Through dishes like veal blanquette and escargot, Antonelli shows that he's perfected the art of classic preparations, turning out the subtle flavors and time-intensive sauces that are hard to find these days.
Here's an except from this week's review by Eric Schaefer:
We Believe Local Journalism is Critical to the Life of a City
Engaging with our readers is essential to Phoenix New Times's mission. Make a financial contribution or sign up for a newsletter, and help us keep telling Phoenix's stories with no paywalls.
Support Our Journalism
When you taste the beef bourguignon, you'll wonder why it has all but disappeared from modern menus. Antonelli's version, made with beef short ribs, tender pearl onions, and a heavily reduced red wine sauce, is rich and satisfying. Veal blanquette, a featured special that is made with veal cheeks, continues the theme of classic cuisine prepared to an exacting standard: traditional preparations, subtle flavors, and time intensive sauces. And each entrée comes with a side, be it puréed broccoli, McClendon Farms kale, or luxuriously creamy mashed potatoes.
Hungry for more? Read our full review of The Brooklyn Cafe.