Local pros in food, design and community building are coming together with their latest project, Lydia's Kitchen. Jonathan Madrigal owns the popular coffee shop Berdena's. Chantell Nighswonger and Kevin Cieszkowski own The Frederick, an architectural, mid-century retail space filled with local shops in Uptown Phoenix.
Together, they're working to open The Fred's first full restaurant next month.
“Truth be told, this is an idea I have been working on for years,” Madrigal says.
The mixed-use space plans to serve simple, sophisticated American classics with an elegant, European flair worthy of the chic surroundings. Madrigal and Nighswonger anticipate a mid-May opening for the all-day concept, which will serve brunch and dinner from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.
“We had been playing with the idea of a brunch spot in Scottsdale, essentially expanding on Berdena’s. But the more we thought about it, looking at the space at The Fred, it started to feel like the natural fit for what we were wanting to do. It was a long time coming, but we are finally about ready,” Madrigal says.
The Frederick is known for its mid-century architecture from the 1960s. The building was designed by prominent Phoenix architect Frederick P. Weaver in 1963 as a dental office and business complex. In 2021, Nighswonger and her husband completed renovations and opened the space as a home for their boutique, Vida Moulin, along with a carefully curated collection of small businesses.
While The Fred has added more retail options, the owners hope Lydia's Kitchen will bring an entirely new clientele to the retro retail center.
Nighswonger, inspired by her travels to Europe, came back to The Frederick wanting to do more than just another brunch spot.
As she talked with Madrigal, they bonded over a love of simple dishes that packed complex flavors, farm-to-table ingredients, outdoor dining and the need for a thoughtfully curated space.
“From Berdena's, we knew that everything Jonathan does, he does earnestly. What we were tiring of in Phoenix and Scottsdale was this impulse for everything to be a trend or have a gimmick, whether it be the menu or the interior design," Nighswonger says. "Lydia’s Kitchen is a direct rebuttal of that sort of approach."
Opting for substance and simplicity, the partners hope to capitalize on the iconic Frederick courtyard, where a lush pool of emerald grass is the centerpiece and an extension of the businesses that occupy the plaza.
Nighswonger notes that the design also takes a more European approach, in which form and function work together to promote an experience. Lamenting the lack of outdoor community areas in the city despite our lovely weather for most of the year, Nighswonger envisions Lydia’s Kitchen as a "third space” with broad appeal.
“I have a 3-year-old, and when we started traveling to Europe with her, we started noticing how much more family-friendly spaces, including restaurants, are. Everything is very focused on the child being a part of the dining experience but not catering solely to them. At Lydia’s Kitchen, you can have a meal that feels like you are still retaining your tastes and sensibilities, and there is room for the kids at the table, too," Nighswonger says.
When the kids are done, they are welcome to romp around The Frederick's lush courtyard, which is naturally contained, and let their parents enjoy their meal in peace.
The restaurant will feature a thoughtfully curated retail marketplace for culinary-minded shoppers, which leads to a counter to order. Patrons will get a number to take to one of the indoor or outdoor seating options. The space will include bistro tables, a fire pit, a water feature and a seven-top bar.
Large sliding glass doors will give the impression of outdoor dining even if one chooses not to be in the elements. Clean, purposeful lines, abundant natural light and pops of green and yellow add to the minimalistic elegance.
The menu will lean heavily into Madrigal’s love of classic European techniques, coupled with hearty American brunch staples. Using ingredients from local partners such as McClendon Select Produce, Underbelly meats and Noble Bread, along with pastries from Wanda, Madrigal’s new bakery based in Scottsdale, the menu will provide an extension of the chef's talents seen at Berdena’s.
Madrigal anticipates a seasonal menu and a coffee selection similar to the Scottsdale cafe, with roasts from all over the world. There will be ever-present favorites, such as Berdena’s waffles and a nod to his Costa Rican roots with a hearty Gallo Pinto dish. A steak-and-eggs staple pays homage to his mother, who helps him curate his menus.
“All these locations are named after my matriarchs: Wanda (my bakery) is my grandma, Lydia is my great-grandma, and Berdena’s is named after another great-great-grandmother, on my mother’s side. These women did a lot with a little bit, always caring about the quality of food and being welcoming to people. (These are) traits that I look up to," Madrigal says.
Madrigal notes that his staff will also influence the menu. He is currently interviewing for the head chef position at Lydia’s Kitchen, someone he hopes will craft offerings for the evening patrons. The plan for dinner includes small plates and a strong wine list.
In keeping with the rest of The Frederick, Nighswonger is keen on creating a concept that feels like an organic extension of the mid-century space. She hopes Lydia's Kitchen and its evening dining experience can help the retail space evolve into a nighttime destination.
“It’s not something a lot of folks have seen yet, but the Fred is really beautiful, all lit up at night," Nighswonger notes. "She looks amazing, and we’re hoping to expound on that."
Lydia’s Kitchen at The Frederick
Opening mid-May1215 E. Missouri Ave.
