Fear of Frying

Lo-Lo's puts the soul in soul food

I have driven halfway to Tucson to parachute out of a plane. I have journeyed to Lake Pleasant for ultralight gliding, which is essentially sitting on an airborne lawn mower (same engine, only a little better security of flight). I have ridden thoroughbred horses bareback over jumps, and I once challenged a dictator in Africa on why he refused to distribute penicillin to his people (because he could, he said).

But I have never fried a chicken. And I never intend to. The idea is simply too frightening. Dropping things into blistering oil, hoping to leap away before the molten liquid splashes on my delicate skin, controlling the temperature just so -- as the book 4001 Food Facts and Chef's Secrets warns me, "Never allow oil to heat to the smoke point, as it may ignite." I'd have to be crazy to try such foolishness.

I'm not alone in my oily concerns. Los Angeles Times food editor Russ Parsons in his book How to Read a French Fry concedes that "most people would sooner tune their own car or perform minor surgery on a family member before they would try to fry in their own kitchen." There are too many variables, he writes -- the ingredients, the temperature, and the fact that the most minor mishap can turn a delicious fried feast into a disaster. Oil that is too hot results in burned on the outside/undercooked on the inside chicken; oil that is not hot enough will deliver wretched soggy skin. More than that, oil that's not contained can kill us. As Parsons notes, "The fundamental truth of frying is that it is one of the hottest forms of cooking there is. That is the reason fried foods have such a nice crunch, and it is also the reason so many people are afraid of it."

Larry White and his posse.
Jackie Mercandetti
Larry White and his posse.

Location Info


Lo Lo's Chicken & Waffles

10 W. Yuma St.
Phoenix, AZ 85003

Category: Restaurant > Breakfast

Region: Central Phoenix


KK's combo: $9.95
Baby Ray combo: $8.25
Soul food platters: $10.95
Fish and chips: $6.50
Aunt Portia's omelet: $5.50
Red velvet cake: $3

602-340-1304. Hours: Breakfast, lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Thursday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Friday, 10a.m. to 2a.m.; Saturday, 10a.m. to 7p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

10 West Yuma Street

That's why I'll leave the deep-frying to the professionals, skilled folks like the cooks at my new favorite restaurant, Lo-Lo's Chicken & Waffles in south Phoenix. This place has possibly the best Southern fried chicken I've ever had in my life. It's crispy, juicy, inexpensive, and I don't have to worry about hurting myself to get it.

Thank goodness owner Larry White has no fear of frying. He was practically raised around boiling oil, as the grandson of Elizabeth White, the proprietor of downtown Phoenix's legendary Mrs. White's Golden Rule Cafe. Larry learned the art of fried chicken from the Valley's indisputable mistress of soul food. The poultry is the backbone of his year-old restaurant, housed in a tiny converted home amid the modest residential and aging industrial area that is Central Avenue and Buckeye.

Larry uses canola oil for his frying, which is the healthful choice for today's cooks. Cholesterol free, and with only one gram of fat, it has 50 percent less saturated fat than olive or other vegetable oils.

Do I care about that, though? No. What's important to me is that canola has a mild flavor, so when I bite into Lo-Lo's chicken's beautiful breast, thigh or leg, the oil runs clear and clean. Because real fried chicken -- as we have here -- absolutely must have that explosion of grease when we peel away the crisp battered skin. When we bite that skin, it should make our lips slick and shiny. When we eat the meat, it should be so deeply infused with fat that it's almost wet. Cloggy, thick oil only makes us sick.

Frying is one of the fastest modes of cooking food. Something that takes 20 minutes to finish by roasting will be done in as little as two minutes when fried. Doing it correctly, however, takes time. Indeed, Lo-Lo's creations easily take half an hour from order to table. Larry and his highly boisterous crew are busy back in the kitchen, cooking up huge platters of soul food fare, hand-making the gravy, the greens, the mac-n-cheese, the cakes.

It gets loud in the little three-room cafe, the animated conversation and the Bose-stereo-produced jazz and R&B tunes bouncing off Spanish tile floors and white brick walls. Posters of jazz greats are the artwork, and, like the decor at Mrs. White's, visitors are invited to graffiti their well-wishes on any open wall space (Mary Rose Wilcox and numerous athletes are big fans). Customers -- me included -- think nothing of shouting across the compact space when we need attention (hardly ever) or a leftovers box (always).

Besides chicken, Lo-Lo's specialty is waffles. They're served by themselves or alongside fried chicken. An odd combo? Only until it's sampled. There's good reason that Roscoe's House of Chicken 'n' Waffles in California has a cult following, and why Lo-Lo's sells the batter disks nonstop throughout the day (the place is open until 2 a.m. on Fridays, and it's packed even in the wee hours). Thin, griddled to fluffy insides and crunchy edge, there's a hint of cinnamon to be found under the butter and syrup.

My killer combo is the KK's: a quarter chicken, two waffles, grits and two eggs. I could eat this every day if I didn't mind turning into an elephant. The grits are polenta-perfect, drenched in butter, and the eggs are scrambled with lots of cheese and onions. But then, I'm also adoring of the Baby Ray -- two waffles and a quarter chicken smothered in rich peppery gravy spiked with chopped carrot and capped with grilled white onion curls. The gravy softens the fried chicken crust, for an orgy of luscious fat and grease.

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