Il Forno Bello is Mesa’s new favorite pizzeria. Here’s what to expect

When a new spot opens in town, we’re eager to check it out, let you know our initial impressions, share photos and dish about menu items. First Taste, as the name implies, is not a full-blown review but instead a peek inside restaurants that have just opened – an occasion to sample a few items and satisfy curiosities (both yours and ours).

In north-central Mesa, a palm-tree-lined plaza is home to two adobe buildings. One is the hacienda-style Rancho de Tia Rosa Mexican restaurant, complete with a thick patio wall, string lights and a tiled path. Across the way sits a smaller Mission-style spot that looks like it would be right at home in Santa Fe. A silver Vespa parked outside, however, hints that Italy may be more on the menu.

This is the new home of Il Forno Bello, a pizzeria that opened in mid-March and has been drawing crowds ever since.

On a recent visit, we walked through the wood-framed glass doors and checked in with the host. The wait would be an hour, she said, but thankfully, the evening was cool, so we settled in at a large collection of benches out front. On a warmer day, waiting customers would have to sit in their cars.

We watched as couples showed up for date night, families reunited at the benches before heading inside and young kids played on the small side patio. Eventually, our table was ready.

The small restaurant consists of an interior building surrounded by a completely enclosed porch, creating an internal dining area with tables along the outer walls. The ambiance is warm and welcoming. With few soft elements and every table filled, sound ricochets around the space.

Our waiter appears and struggles to hear as we order a glass of DeConciliis Bacioilcielo Aglianico, which is $13 for a glass and comes “from the birthplace of pizza!” the menu exclaims, and a Peroni. The beer, which comes in a bottle and is priced at $11 each, leaves us planning to stick to wine. Hungry from the wait, we also order some bread. 

A small $7 portion of a loaf arrives, sliced and cold. Two tiny ramekins of olive oil and balsamic vinegar accompany the slices, too small to dip anything into other than torn shreds of the bread. In the cold restaurant, with AC blasting, we wish the bread was warm. 

So far, we’re wowed by the space, and a little disheartened by our purchases. But this spot is known for pizza. Perhaps that’s where it will shine. 

Il Forno Bello is run by Horacio “Lacho” Hernandez, a longtime veteran of Pizzeria Bianco. After decades of working as the right-hand man to the Valley’s most famous pizzaiolo, Hernandez struck out on his own, bringing bubbly Neapolitan-style pies to this East Valley neighborhood. And for those who live close by, this is undeniably an exciting addition. 

The menu is packed with locally sourced, organic ingredients and items imported from Italian producers. We order the Il Lacho ($25) and the Basilico ($29). On our server’s recommendation, and for an extra $7, we opt to add prosciutto to the veggie pie. 

Named after the owner, the Il Lacho is topped with house-made mozzarella, Parmigiano-Reggiano, candied pancetta, jalapeño and hot honey. The peppers and honey are mild, but add bright notes and sweetness to the cheesy base.

The Il Lacho lacks sauce, but for $3 more, you can “make it a ginger,” according to the menu. While this pie was satisfying, next time we might opt to boost the flavors even more with tomato sauce.

The Basilico is topped with mozzarella, Parmigiano-Reggiano, olive oil, pesto and burrata. Given the cheeses’ inherently salty nature, adding prosciutto felt like the wrong move. Large slices of the thin, cured ham were placed in a flat layer over the pie, meaning they inevitably all came off in one bite. 

The mozzarella and burrata blended together in creamy harmony. However, the Parmigiano-Reggiano was added in sturdy slices that turned hard as the pizza cooled. Thin shavings or a sprinkle of grated cheese would have saved the texture. 

The best part about both pies was undeniably the crust. It was fluffy, thick on the outside, thin in the center, with bubbles kissed by just the right amount of char. At Il Forno Bello, no one will leave their crusts behind. 

To finish the meal, and at our server’s slightly premature prompting, we ordered a couple of sweet treats. Espresso gets dressed up in the restaurant’s affogatos ($13) with a choice of gelato flavor, between classic vanilla, pistachio or chocolate. You can also order $7 scoops of the gelato sans coffee.

For the pistachio gelato, don’t expect a bright green scoop. This natural, soft tan gelato is creamy, nutty, a tiny bit salty and one of the best bites we had all night.

While we may suggest skipping the before-dinner bread, make sure to peruse the after-dinner options. The coffee menu makes use of the rich, smooth espresso in cappuccinos, macchiatos and Caffè Corretto, a gently boozy sip that combines espresso with a splash of grappa. 

It’s easy to understand why the wait is an hour long at Il Forno Bello. For one, the small restaurant doesn’t accept reservations. But also, the warm atmosphere, solid pizza and upscale yet family-friendly vibe is a welcome and needed addition to the neighborhood. Now, if Mesa residents want Bianco-style pizza, they have a much shorter distance to travel. 

Il Forno Bello

3121 E. McKellips Road, Mesa