Tirion Boan
Audio By Carbonatix
June was a tasty one for the Phoenix New Times food team. In our travels around the Valley, we stumbled on some stellar pizza, snacked on spicy wontons and marveled at a high-quality, low-cost lunch.
As you’re out and about on your own travels across town, these spots are worth a stop. Here are the five best bites and sips we tasted at Phoenix restaurants in June.
Bee’s Knees at Caluna Pizza
Multiple locations
When we stopped by Wren House Brewing Co. on 24th Street, we planned on sipping a few of the local brewer’s craft beers and heading home. But while walking in, we spied a tent set up outside. The folding table was decorated with small, fake lemon trees and the chef was stretching pizza dough by hand. We headed inside the brewery, contemplating grabbing a pizza on the way out. At the bar, other Wren House customers noshed on slices and buzzed about how amazing Caluna‘s pizza was. Intrigued, we ordered one for ourselves. It turned out to be an excellent decision. The Bee’s Knees pie started with that tender dough, stretched to order, and was then topped with thin slices of soppressata, a drizzle of hot honey, piped dots of ricotta and torn fresh basil leaves. The aromatic herb brought pops of freshness to the salty, savory meat. Occasional bites of creamy ricotta added cool contrast. The spicy honey and fluffy, chewy, bubbled crust sent the whole thing over the edge into cravings-inducing territory. The pop-up frequently sets up outside Wren House on Saturday afternoons, as well as at other spots around town. Wherever they set up next, we’ll make sure to seek them out.
Sara Crocker
Red Chili Wontons at Kofu Dumpling House
1948 W. Broadway Road, #106, Mesa
There’s no shortage of spots to sample dumplings in Mesa’s Asian District. In a quiet strip mall formerly anchored by the grocery store, AZ International Marketplace, Kofu Dumpling House makes some of the tastiest. You can order classic steamed dumplings or pillowy buns, but our favorite bite from a recent visit was Kofu’s Red Chili Wontons. The wontons — a generous dozen — arrive in a bowl with the same curved oval shape as a soup spoon. The folded dumplings are stuffed with pork and chives, then steamed and mounded into the vessel, which is brimming with fiery chili oil. The wontons pack meaty comfort in each bite, while a drizzle of chile oil cuts through the richness with fruity, fiery zing.
Sara Crocker
Manor Margarita at Los Dos Molinos
Multiple locations
“Some like it hot” is the motto at the New Mexican restaurant Los Dos Molinos. When you serve red and green chile with that much punch, you’ve got to have something to cool things off. Luckily, the bar team at Los Dos Molinos is ready to oblige with cold beers, frozen margaritas and shaken cocktails. Los Dos’ Manor Margarita gets its name from the large square glass in which the tipple is served. It’s a fresh riff on a classic prickly pear margarita, made with Campo Bravo Reposado, lime, agave and enough of the cactus fruit to give it a soft flamingo-pink hue. The reposado adds depth and warmth, which balance well with the sweet and tart notes of the fruit and agave. This margarita is refreshing for a hot day, or a hot plate, and has enough nuance to enjoy on its own while sitting at the bar and watching a game. Los Dos Molinos has three locations around the Valley, but check before you head out. Its two Phoenix locations are taking a summer break and will reopen on July 14.
Tirion Boan
Pan y Pimiento at Ponderosa House
4121 N. Marshall Way, Scottsdale
In the center of Old Town Scottsdale, a new restaurant is serving “Arizona-born” food. This comes to life as a menu filled with the flavors of the Southwest and Mexico, with an American comfort-food twist. A recent meal started with a perfect fusion of all of the above. Ponderosa House’s Pan y Pimiento appetizer includes a hearty portion of the pepper-studded cheese dip, topped with a guajillo pepper and tomato jam and pickled veggies. Slices of applewood-smoked bacon and toasted bread come on the side. The rich, creamy cheese is cut with the sweet and tangy jam and boosted with the thick-cut smoky bacon for a well-balanced bite that left us scooping up every morsel. Ponderosa House has two distinct dining areas. Customers can enjoy the pimiento as an appetizer before dinner in the upscale house, or snack on the tasty cheese while sipping margaritas in the separate cantina bar.
Tirion Boan
Piccante panini at Fabio On Fire | Panini & Gelateria
24775 N. Lake Pleasant Pkwy., Peoria
Fabio on Fire, the full-service Italian restaurant on Lake Pleasant Parkway, has a smaller, simpler sibling concept roughly five miles north on the same road. At the counter-service spot, the focus is on panini, pizza and gelato. For those looking for a sandwich, the menu is packed with options. A deli counter displaying the cured meats and cheeses helps narrow down the decision. We opted for the Piccante, which is loaded with spicy salami, buffalo mozzarella, arugula, caramelized white onions, creamy parmigiana spread and olive oil. The quality of each ingredient is evident, with the creamy, salty cheese offering a cool contrast to the thinly sliced spicy salami. The hearty sandwich can be ordered whole, or by the half for a steal. A half is plenty for lunch, and at $9, it is one of the best high-quality, yet affordable meals we’ve had in recent memory.
