Chef blends memories of Mexico with tapas at Tempe rooftop restaurant

At the Omni Tempe Hotel at ASU, the rooftop opens into a vibrant dining space framed by skyline views and the silhouette of Tempe Butte.

Inside, diners at Lucero Rooftop Lounge & Terrace savor dishes like the Black Garlic Chicken Kabob with piquillo romesco, grilled scallions and amaranth popcorn, or a Steak Tostada layered with smoky queso and poblano chimichurri. 

Beyond the dining room filled with friends clinking glasses of crafted cocktails, Chef de Cuisine César Ruiz and his team work in the kitchen, kneading dough and tending to the small details that define their Southwestern- and Mediterranean-inspired tapas.

Perched atop the 330-room hotel at the intersection of University Drive and Mill Avenue, Lucero has been led by Ruiz since opening in 2023. While the hotel’s culinary operations are overseen by Executive Chef Chris Castro, Ruiz has guided Lucero’s identity by developing a menu that draws on his Mexican heritage.

Although Ruiz grew up in Cottonwood, his passion for food was influenced by his childhood summers and winter breaks spent in Agua Prieta, Sonora. There, Ruiz helped prepare masa and traditional Mexican dishes with his mother and grandmother. 

“Growing up, I helped make the carne for the tamal, blending up the chile rojo; I would help them build it or taste it. Mi Abuela would show me how to make tortillas. So I remember just the different textures, the different flavors,” he says. “I never once, as a kid, thought, man, I’m going to use this, or I really want to become a chef.” 

Diners at Lucero are lucky he changed his mind. The chef’s childhood memories surface in dishes like the Duck Tinga Sope, where a familiar comfort food is reimagined with slow-braised duck layered over an achiote-bean puree base. 

Before discovering his passion for cooking, Ruiz wanted to be a barber. As a teenager and in his early twenties, he picked up jobs at small-town diners, but “it was just to work,” he says. 

When he became a young father, he put aside his goals of being a barber to pursue professional cooking. While working in Sedona in 2018, he fell in love with the elements that make up a professional kitchen: the intensity, the culture, the teamwork and the high level of execution. 

“Although I feel like I started maybe a little late in the industry, I couldn’t see myself doing anything else,” he says. 

Ruiz worked as a line cook at Che Ah Chi restaurant at the lauded Sedona destination, Enchantment Resort, and was mentored by Chef Chris Castro. 

“He pushed me a lot to work on my craft,” he says. “He saw something in me that really struck. His interest in mentoring me and building me up from there got me where I’m at today, for sure,” Ruiz says.

He worked with Castro for a few years, but when his mentor moved to Phoenix, Ruiz felt like he hit a wall.

Three years after starting as a line cook, Ruiz was ready for the next step. Determined to become a chef, he focused on sharpening his skills and building a career in the industry. He landed a sous chef position at a country club in Anthem, his first opportunity to step into a leadership role in the kitchen. 

There, he worked alongside experienced chefs who became mentors, helping shape his approach to cooking and leadership over the years.

“It was really cool because every single one of them had a different way of cooking, different techniques,” he says. With them, he learned the fundamentals of French cuisine, styles and techniques. 

When Lucero Rooftop Lounge & Terrace opened in 2023, Castro brought Ruiz to the rooftop. The duo bounced a few ideas around before honing in on the Southwestern-Mediterranean fusion that fit the area and the restaurant’s feel. 

The seasonal menu uses locally sourced produce. Some summer items include a chile relleno fritter with goat cheese, Anaheim chile and stewed tomato sauce. Charred Pulpo Tacos with agave chiltepin glaze, avocado emulsion, salsa macha and charred lime-pickled onion have been a hit alongside Bluefin Tuna Tiradito with watermelon aguachile, Fresno chile, avocado and pickled jicama. 

To end on a sweet note, diners can choose from three desserts: a Hibiscus Panna Cotta with prickly pear curd, macerated strawberries and pepita streusel; a Yuzu Cheesecake topped with raspberry gelée, toasted meringue and coconut shortbread; or a rich Five-Layer Chocolate Cake served with vanilla bean gelato, berry compote and Chantilly cream.

Despite the unique and intricate menu, what Ruiz seems most proud of isn’t a particular dish, but the culture that has emerged behind the scenes. 

The chef oversees a small kitchen staff, yet describes the operation as one of the most collaborative teams he’s worked with. He rejects the stereotype of the screaming chef, instead drawing inspiration from leaders like Thomas Keller, whose kitchens are known for discipline without sacrificing respect. 

From the cooks preparing handmade sopes and enchiladas to the servers delivering plates to rooftop tables, everyone plays a role in creating what he hopes will be a memorable experience. 

Today, Ruiz still thinks about the handmade tortillas his grandmother taught him to make and the chile colorado his mother prepared at home. At Lucero, those memories are brought to the table, transformed through years of training and refinement. The techniques may have changed, but the goal remains the same: creating food that tells his story, one plate at a time.

Lucero

7 E. University Drive, Tempe