Korean food in Phoenix has gone on a helluva run over the past decade. We’ve watched a smattering of barbecue and soondubu joints explode into a variety of culinary subgenres. But through it all (plus a change of ownership), jack-of-all-trades Hodori continues to stand tall as the grand dame of our Korean restaurant scene. It’s a casual, independent joint with brusque service, zero frills and straight-up good food for all. Want something sizzly crisp? Fried mandu or a sour, blistered kimchi jun will hit the spot. Seeking a comforting soup? Go with a clean, silky ox knee soup or any of Hodori’s excellent soondubu variants. Something noodly? Slippery jap chae or cold, spicy bibim guksu. Feeling fishy? Spicy seared squid or delicious braised black cod. And if you’re feeding an army? Go with bosam, a titanic helping of pork belly wrapped in fresh cabbage, or a massive cauldron of budae jungol — “army stew” — loaded with just about everything, including ramen noodles and spam.