Fabio on Fire

Too often, West Valley residents have to be satisfied with second and third locations of restaurants from other parts of the Valley. But Fabio on Fire, born and raised in Peoria, is a rare exception to the rule that can go toe-to-toe with anything on the other side of town. Hailing from Domodossola, near Italy’s border with Switzerland, Fabio Ceschetti comes from a line of Italian bakers, and his pizza sports the kind of developed flavor, blistered char and resilient chew that you only get from a pizzaiolo who is focused on the bread. But Fabio on Fire is as much a neighborhood trattoria as it is a pizzeria. Simple antipasti shine, particularly Ceschetti’s silky, fragrant house-made porchetta. His gnocchi are delicate and light and oft paired with rich, cheese-heavy sauces. And his fresh paste ripiene — such as veal-stuffed tortellaci in bright tomato sauce — or lasagne layered with besciamella and a thick, rich ragu are every bit as excellent as his pizzas.