TEN Handcrafted American Fare & Spirits

Jeff Hostenske’s straightforward entrées and appetizers, several of which he’s tweaked just enough to make interesting, are what he’s calling “approachable American,” and it is at least that. The shrimp and gritcake change up the usual shrimp-and-grits presentation, offering a sweet, moist pancake made of coarsely ground cornmeal topped with cherry tomatoes; tasty, crisp-skinned andouille and drizzled with a piquant, Creole-spiced sauce. Hush puppies are tasty; crumbled with bleu cheese and bacon, they were dense and moist, crispy outside and served with a nicely creamy rouille sauce for dipping. The sadly named B.E.T. “you love it” wedge is dressed with bacon, hardboiled egg, tomato, and not enough of Hostenske’s delicious buttermilk dressing. An order of slow roasted pot roast shows off what Hostenske does best, its presentation pure haute cuisine, its flavors straight from Mom’s kitchen.