Chris Malloy

The Hungry Homie

Mobile pizzaiolo Ryan Moreno’s oven only allows him to make one 12-inch pizza at a time. They are worth the wait. He uses Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes and a blend of 00 and Hayden Flour Mills flour to create a spectacularly soft and intensely flavorful dough. Though he says his pizza is in the Neapolitan tradition, it has a thickness that almost pulls it out of this tradition, overlapping somewhat with fresh-out-of-the-oven bread. His Vanna white, a near-perfect union of garlic, butter, and mozzarella, is a stunner.