Global bites, cheap beers make Industry Standard a fit on Roosevelt Row

With its bright red building and blue awning, Carly's Bistro was one of the most recognizable places on Roosevelt Row until it closed last year. Now the space is home to Industry Standard, which stepped onto the scene in January.

Outside, there's a modern elegance. That red stucco is now cream, with a dark awning and slab-font sign that proclaims the new occupant with a gold, Art Deco flourish. But it still feels at home on Roosevelt Row. Tags crowd the metal railing of the patio that stretches around the building onto Second Street, where a mural of Anthony Bourdain painted by the artist Lalo Cota overlooks the district.

Inside, the restaurant and bar have an intimate, industrial feel. Grey checkered wallpaper envelopes the moodily lit room. On a recent visit, we took a seat at one of the dining area's warm wood tables in comfy leather and brass chairs. A small tabletop lamp casts a warm glow. It feels like the setting for a cozy date night, but the vibe is casual and upbeat, with the buzz of electronic music and bartenders shaking drinks. Behind them, a row of eye-catching emerald green arched shelves hold bottles and glassware.

Chatting with customers and dropping off plates are chef Edward Mclachlan and Mike Bowdow, a partner in the restaurant. Bodow and fellow partners Mike Cheathem and Jordan Hudgens aim to create a go-to neighborhood spot with a high bar for service. That dedication also led Carla Wade Logan, a co-owner of Carly's Bistro, to invite the trio to take over her longtime restaurant's former home.

Mclachlan comes from Chicago, where he worked in kitchens including The Girl & The Goat, a globally inspired eatery from Stephanie Izard, the celebrity chef and TV personality. The menu at Industry Standard incorporates some of its owners’ and chef’s favorite dishes, which cut across genres and cuisines.

The menu is tight yet varied. Want to pregame with chicken wings and a pint for under $20? Sure. A glass of orange wine and pasta for a date night? Yep. A high-low of a $32 lobster roll and a $4 beer? Absolutely.

That malleability can help a neighborhood spot stick. It also prompts the question: With so many intersecting interests, will the place work?

To find out, we opted to share several small and larger plates. First up was the Astoria Chopped Salad. Tender baby spinach, bitter radicchio and bits of Honeycrisp apple are tossed with a vibrant roasted citrus dressing. Cubes of candied walnuts and sharp cheddar add richness. The salad doesn't break any new ground but is a well-executed, bright way to start the meal.

Next up: duck meatballs in arrabbiata sauce. The meatballs pack a punch of flavor in their tiny cast iron pan thanks to a velvety, bold sauce. Duck isn't often showcased as meatballs, but in these, a tender decadence and gamey poultry flavor make a case for change. Tendrils of the dolloped stracciatella cheese playfully pull and offer a respite from the sauce’s spice.

The roast pork sandwich and lamb pasta landed on the table while we were still working through the first course. No matter; meatballs and pasta on the table at once seemed a boon.

The fire from those meatballs, however, managed to mute the playful pasta in front of us. The dish takes a classic ragu and infuses North African and Middle Eastern flavors. It's beautiful in its subtlety.

Al dente pappardelle is tossed with harissa and lamb shoulder and finished with a dollop of yogurt flecked with chopped mint. That yogurt cuts through the richness of the meat, but we also expected it would calm the heat of harissa, which can range from smoky warmth to fiery, peppery heat. In this dish, the spice was mild.

The creativity and restraint of this dish were evident. Yet alongside the zesty, garlicky arrabbiata, the harissa played second fiddle.

We tucked into the pork sandwich next. This dish is an homage to a Philadelphia sandwich, just not the one you’d guess. The City of Brotherly Love, known for its cheesesteaks, is also where Italian immigrants opened roast pork shops serving these sandwiches. Industry Standard’s version hews to the classic, with thin-sliced meat, broccoli rabe and melted provolone.

The sandwich is a gorgeous balance of flavors and textures. Moist, deli-counter-thin pieces of pork and a sundried tomato aioli lean sweeter, striking back against the bitter green, while the crusty Noble Bread hoagie studded with sesame seeds adds crunch and holds it all together. The pork sandwich may not be well-known in Phoenix, but Industry Standard's version deserves to become a staple.

The restaurant’s name nods to the owners’ appreciation for hospitality and to the folks who work in food and beverage. The cocktail menu speaks to the team’s industry cred. It was created by Keifer Gilbert, who has made drinks at some of Phoenix’s most popular and prestigious bars, including UnderTow and Bitter & Twisted Cocktail Parlour.

We opted for two cocktails that both made use of amari and melon to create different, but delicious sips. Honey Don’t is a dry, citrusy gin-based tippled with a light sweetness from honeydew. It was ideal to kick off the night but would be as good on the patio during a hot day.

Paulitically Correct incorporated smoky mezcal and bittersweet amaro with cantaloupe, fresno chile and lime. The flavors managed to balance each other instead of competing to create a drink that was a bit sweet, warm and boozy.

To end the meal, why not finish the way the pros do? The bar menu includes an industry-centric section that includes $4 beers and $6 shots. Order a High Life and an Amaro Montenegro for a refreshing, bittersweet and slightly tamer take on a beer and shot combo.

Industry Standard is setting a solid tone with its food, drinks and service. While it's visually a departure from the bright, eclectic aesthetic of Carly's Bistro, the team is carrying the mantle for warm hospitality.

We’re looking forward to popping by again for a few smaller plates to share or to try the matcha cheesecake with a nightcap at the bar. There could be any number of ways we could revisit, and that’s the beauty of not only a good restaurant, but a great neighborhood spot.

Industry Standard

128 E. Roosevelt St.