Lydia’s Kitchen & Market opened at the mid-century modern retail space The Frederick in June. The restaurant has already garnered positive buzz for its bright and airy vibe and European-influenced plates and pastries, making it a brunch destination even in the sweltering summer months.
“The summer start has been good for us. It has helped us find our footing and understand who we are and what we do,” says co-owner Chantell Nighswonger. Nighswonger, along with her husband, Kevin Cieszkowski, owns The Frederick off of Missouri Avenue, and has partnered with Chef Jonathan Madrigal of the popular coffee shop Berndena’s to bring Lydia’s Kitchen to life.
The new concept has had a slow rollout, starting with its retail market that sells curated home decor and gifts. On June 10, the restaurant opened for breakfast. European wine and local craft beer service by the glass started in mid-July. More options are on the horizon.
“We have gotten very busy in the mornings, especially on the weekends, and seem like we have the breakfast options really nailed down. So July is all about adding more to the menu with our cocktails and wine, bringing lunch more into focus, and then transitioning to the evening offerings,” Nighswonger says.
The drinks, like the food and atmosphere, are light and vibrant. Expect options such as Lydia’s Esspressotini, which balances cognac with espresso, coconut and cinnamon for an elegant riff on the espresso martini. The Riviera Fizz, with its blend of Cognac Park Pineau de Charentes, Cointreau, citrus and soda, makes for a perfect riff on the patio pounder.
Nighswonger wanted to shake things up for a few options and to reinvigorate some classic cocktails with a modern twist.
“I love spicy cocktails, so I had to include the Paloma Piquant, which is a bit of a riff on something like a jalapeno margarita, but in this case taking a classic paloma and ramping it up a bit,” Nighswonger says.
The Berry Darling, a nod to a classic bramble with La Fuerta Rojo, Botanist Gin, toasted rosemary, blackberry and Pacific Sea Salt Club Soda, complements the restaurant's charm and relaxed sophistication.
This approach – classic, with a tasteful twist – is at the heart of Lydia’s Kitchen, and while the restaurant offers the typical brunch staples like a seasonal scrambler, the dishes that wear their European influence have become some of the most requested items. In particular, a take on the French sandwich the Croque Monsieur with rosemary ham, gruyere and parmesan in bechamel sauce, has become a fan favorite. The sandwich is broiled, giving the exterior just enough crisp to hold the richness of the cheese and creamy sauce, complementing the herbaceous ham and making for a decadent bite.
The competition between this dish and the other best-seller, the house-smoked salmon, with its delicate smokiness balanced by creme fraiche, a jammy egg and pickled onion, served with toasted pumpernickel and a punchy herb salad, is fierce. Order both to share (or fight over).
Tempting entrees such as an espresso-rubbed short rib and steak frites are also available, along with a classic burger, fried chicken sandwich and chicken tenders.
The Oeufs en Cocotte, which comprises shallot cream, bacon, baked egg, fontina and herbs de Provence spooned onto toasted sourdough, is a standout favorite, even if it did require some educational outreach on the Lydia’s social media pages.
“We did that little reel on how to pronounce it, and the moment we posted that, it was fun to see the numbers rise on that dish. It’s different in that you have to understand what it is before you order it, so that helped. It’s fun to see these more unique items that aren’t on every breakfast menu in town, become the popular choices, because these dishes really make us, us," Nighswonger adds.
It may take customers a little time to learn how to pronounce their new favorite dish, but the hard work behind the scenes at Lydia's seems to be paying off. From the intricate floral arrangements that Nighswonger crafts for the tables to the carefully curated home decor and kitchen goods, no detail at Lydia’s goes unchecked. The restaurant is closed on Mondays so that the kitchen team can prep the ingredients for the dishes in-house, from smoking the salmon to making the berry compote and crème fraiche.
“It’s certainly a process and takes a ton of work to make these things, all these elements, from scratch, but people can pick up on that. It tastes different when the care is there," Nighswonger says.
Like the menu, the restaurant itself is meticulously detailed but never pretentious, aiming for a tasteful elegance.
“There’s no kitsch or shtick to it. A lot of places have set-ups that are staged things that are meant to be 'IG worthy,' but it’s nice to just have a space that, when people come in, they are surprised by the uniqueness and beauty of it and want to post and talk about it. We’ve been very lucky in that sense, just having the space to make that happen,” Nighswonger says.
Nighswonger says one of her goals was to make sure there was no bad seat in the house. Whether facing the interior courtyard and the bubbling water fountains, to the side patio section (and soon, when the weather breaks, the patio itself, with a water feature and fireplace), every table feels like a winner.
As Lydia's Kitchen gains fans, visitors to the restaurant are exploring the other amenities at The Frederick.
“Lydia’s is definitely breathing a ton of new life into the space," Nighswonger says. "A lot of people that have not been to The Fred before are coming to eat, and then they take a walk around The Fred and shop and support those local businesses."
The team at Lydia’s Kitchen continues to find its rhythm. Plans to develop the evening menu and solidify dinner hours are in the works.
“The hope is that by late July, early August, when people are coming back into town, we will start evening hours," Nighswonger says. "We’re going to be leaning into a wine list that has more European offerings, reds and whites, with small plates. Something a little more intimate, casual and romantic."
