Last April, One Love Cafe opened its doors on 19th Avenue in a spot formerly home to Martha's Caribbean Grill and Jamaican chain restaurant Jerk Hut. Its name is partially inspired by Bob Marley’s hit song and by the community that food can create.
“In Jamaica, food brings people together, it is the culture,” White says.
White credits his parents for passing on their cooking skills and knowledge of many traditional Jamaican dishes. His mother, who White lived with as a child, owned a restaurant in Jamaica. Later, when his mom relocated to London, White moved in with his father in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, where he learned to cook.
“Seeing her (my mom) operate in the kitchen as a child and being around my father, who probably taught me more about the kitchen than anyone else, I felt like that was something I could do myself,” White says.
So far, the restaurant's reception has been overwhelmingly positive, both from those familiar with Jamaican cuisine and those who have never tried a single dish.
“People were very excited to see a Jamaican restaurant returning to that spot,” White says.
He describes his menu as authentic, flavorful and hearty with dishes such as tender, savory oxtails and marinated jerk chicken.
“I want the food itself to feel like you’re back home,” White says. “Whether you’re new or whether you’re Jamaican, I would like to say we try to represent Jamaica in a good light at all times.”
White is in the process of expanding the menu, incorporating more soul food and Creole dishes, such as macaroni and cheese, candied yams and collard greens, creating something of a fusion restaurant experience that celebrates Caribbean and American foods.
One of the standout dishes, the coconut curry shrimp, is a childhood favorite of White’s. The strong coconut flavor and lime-marinated shrimp have strong ties to the waters of Jamaica, with the curry making it more of a complex-tasting dish. However, White says, it's relatively easy to make.
“The curry shrimp is the first dish I learned to cook,” he says. “Being at home with (my) single father, I had to figure out how to cook a meal for myself and that was my first experiment.”
How to make White's Coconut Curry Shrimp
For the marinated shrimp:- 2 pounds of brown or jumbo shrimp, shell on
- 1 tablespoon baking soda (optional, for cleaning)
- 2 tablespoons lime juice
- ½ teaspoon each of onion powder, garlic powder, black pepper and cayenne (to taste).
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 small onion, diced
- ½ red bell pepper, diced
- ½ green bell pepper, diced
- ½ yellow bell pepper, diced
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 2 tablespoons Jamaican curry powder
- 1 13.5-ounce can of full-fat coconut milk
- 1 large potato, peeled and diced
- 2 Roma tomatoes, seeded and chopped
- 1 teaspoon salt (to taste)
- 1 small Scotch bonnet pepper, finely chopped (adjust to taste; for a milder curry, use less pepper or remove the seeds).
- Shells from the peeled shrimp
- 1 cup coconut water (or vegetable broth or water)
- 1 small knob of ginger, peeled
- Hot cooked rice, for serving
- Chopped cilantro, for garnish
- Roti or naan, on the side for dipping
In a large bowl, rinse the shrimp under cold water and drain. Fill the bowl with fresh cold water and add the baking soda (if using). Gently scrub the shrimp in the baking soda water, then drain. Rinse the shrimp two or three times with fresh water. Peel and devein the shrimp, reserving the shells if making the stock. In a bowl, combine the shrimp with lime juice, onion powder, garlic powder, black pepper and cayenne pepper. Mix well, cover and refrigerate until ready to cook.
Making the coconut shrimp stock (optional):
In a small pot, combine the reserved shrimp shells, coconut water and ginger. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer for 5 minutes, then turn off the heat and let steep for 20 minutes. Strain the stock into a container.
Making the shrimp curry:
In a large skillet or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, bell peppers and salt. Cook until softened, approximately five minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until it turns a deep brick red. Add the Jamaican curry powder and scotch bonnet pepper. Cook for another minute, stirring constantly, until fragrant. Pour in the coconut milk and coconut shrimp stock (if using). Add the diced potato. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Gently fold in the marinated shrimp and chopped tomatoes. Simmer for five to seven minutes or until the shrimp are pink and cooked through.
Serve the coconut curry shrimp over hot cooked rice with roti or naan. Garnish with chopped cilantro.
