No shortage of swanky chophouses have opened around the Valley in the last few years, often with their own twist.
Some lean into a specific cuisine, like Mexican, Japanese or Italian influence. Others craft food and drinks tableside with over-the-top presentation. Some offer regular live music or entertainment. And, some aim for all of the above.
Enter Warren’s Supper Club. The stylish steakhouse in Chandler spices things up with Creole and Cajun flavors, music and a flair for service. It’s the latest restaurant from the family behind Lo-Lo’s Chicken & Waffles, Brunch & Sip and Monroe’s Hot Chicken.
The restaurant is an homage to the golden age of supper clubs from the 1930s and 1940s, a time when people got dressed up for a night out and would see jazz greats perform while they ate and drank the night away.
The new restaurant opened just off Interstate 10 and Ray Road in June and it stands out, not just because of its pink neon sign. It shares a parking area with a chain steakhouse, a chain Italian restaurant and a chain fitness center. Warren’s replaced another chain – Charleston’s Restaurant. Those spots can be for the everyday experience.
But at Warren’s, it's clear, from the service to the price point, this local spot is a destination for special occasions.
As we approached, a host opened the door. That warm welcome was followed quickly by the rest of the team. When we were taken to our table in the main dining room, our server wanted to know what we were celebrating. As we settled into a sleek leather booth, we heard the roar of “surprise!” as a guest of honor walked in. Looking across dark, moody space, couples and groups were all eagerly chatting over wine and big plates while the smooth cadence of a jazz trio set the tone from the stage.
Positioned at the front of a dining room, the stage is set with drums and piano. Duos of club chairs paired with bistro tables and Champagne buckets are organized as a front row to the music. The room stretches over two levels, filled with cozy booths and tables that have small lights, perfect for seeing what's in front of you in the dimly lit space.
Portraits of the Rat Pack and Ray Charles hang from brick walls accented by wood details, painted a glossy grey. Art Deco-inspired copper tiles cover the ceiling. The kitchen sits opposite the stage, with windows offering a vantage of the cooks at work. Separate from the dining room, the bar features the same inviting decor without the views of the band.
The menu leans on steakhouse tradition while working in Southern flavors and smokehouse technique courtesy of chef Erica Barrett. Barrett has been on the rise since pitching on “Shark Tank” and winning the title “Master of ’Cue” on Season 5 of the Food Network show “BBQ Brawl.” She is also behind the recently opened Coco Jerk in Washington, D.C., and Dough Boy Pizza, which she founded in her home state of Alabama and franchised around the U.S. (including in Phoenix).
Warren’s menu includes shareable starters, salads, a selection of raw dishes and an entire seafood tower. Entrees range from steaks to seafood, smoked chicken and ribs, all of which can be paired with family-style sides.
We start off with cocktails and Shrimp a la Plancha. The sweet, briny shrimp are served head-on and bathed in a house barbecue sauce that isn’t the thick coating you may be expecting. Warren’s version is reminiscent of the New Orleans style – thinner, buttery, bold and a little spicy. The shrimp are served with garlicky toast points that perfectly soak up that decadent sauce.
Shrimp a la Plancha is reminescent of New Orleans-style barbecued shrimp - buttery, bold and a little spicy.
Sara Crocker
Next up was a filet with blue cheese butter, blackened salmon, pomme puree and charred jalapeno creamed corn.
Before those plates dropped, the servers placed a folded napkin on the table, noting that the plate carrying the steak would be 500 degrees. When everything did arrive, the butter on the plate wasn’t sizzling and the plate wasn’t hot at all. A scortching plate is the kind of steakhouse trope that doesn’t appeal to this writer, so there was no disappointment there.
The more important thing is the cook on the steak before it hits the plate. The beef filet was well-seasoned, had a strong sear and was perfectly medium rare inside. The blue cheese butter was very rich and salty, and more of a distraction than a flavor boost.
The salmon had a beautiful crust of spices and was plated atop a ruddy Creole cream sauce. The seasoning had delicious notes of paprika and cayenne, but the fish arrived a bit overdone. The accompanying buttery sauce and lemon helped add some of that moisture back.
The sides added more touches of richness. The creamed corn featured good notes of char throughout, but the jalapenos did not impart much spice. The velvety pomme puree had small, toothsome bits of potato that helped add some much-appreciated texture to the steakhouse staple.
As we wrapped up the meal, we, like many around us, got lost in the rhythm of the band. The trio of suited players on keyboards, bass and drums seamlessly moved through jazz standards that were upbeat and engaging without overpowering the room.
Many restaurants rely on gimmicks and nostalgia to attract diners. Warren’s has a palpable warmth and really delivers on its promise of a celebration-worthy night out for adults who want to experience this kind of bygone dining.
The dishes we ordered didn’t always rise to the high bar set by supper club’s stellar atmosphere and service. When the price point is so splurgy, there’s little room for error. Still, with so much heart and personality pulsing through the restaurant, we’d book a table again to give it another shot.
Warren’s Supper Club
1040 N. 54th St., ChandlerStarters: $15-35; Main Entrees: $36 to market price; Seafood: $45 to MP; Sides: $14-42; Cocktails: $18-24
