Wallet World

Here's a meal well worth its high price

A friend of mine has a curious pastime. He likes to go out with a large group of friends to pricey restaurants, and, when the bill arrives, play what he calls "credit card roulette." All the guys in his gang put their AmEx Platinums in a pile, their waiter shuffles the deck and then draws cards out one by one. The owner of the last card remaining on the table eats the check.

"The last two times, I lost," he tells me ruefully. "And we were at Drinkwater's. Man, that hurt."

No doubt. Drinkwater's City Hall is one of the Valley's priciest steak houses, with dishes costing dear, like a $12.95 shrimp cocktail, a $34.95 prime rib, and $6.95 creamed corn. The Scottsdale restaurant is a favorite for folks with huge wallets and even larger appetites, diners who don't blanch at tackling a 33-ounce rib eye and full-pound baked potato slathered in sour cream and butter. I've always been amazed at the ability of people to pack away such massive amounts of food -- surely it's just overfed politicians, Scotch-on-the-rocks-at-lunch businessmen, and fat cat execs out on the town abusing cigars and bloated expense accounts.

Powerful steaks make the Capital Grille a must for meat eaters.
Jackie Mercandetti
Powerful steaks make the Capital Grille a must for meat eaters.

Location Info

Map

The Capital Grille

2502 E. Camelback Road
Phoenix, AZ 85016

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: East Phoenix

The Capital Grille

16489 N. Scottsdale Road
Scottsdale, AZ 85254

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: North Scottsdale

Details

24-ounce porterhouse: $32.95
Sirloin au poivre with Courvoisier cream sauce: $32.95
Tuna Mediterranean: $25.95
Oysters on the half shell: $10.95
Steak tartare: $9.95
Mashed potatoes$4.95

602-952-8900. Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 4 to 9 p.m.

2502 East Camelback

Except that my credit-card-dealing pal is young, bright-eyed and very healthy. With his trim figure, he certainly doesn't look like the type who indulges in the kind of gluttony found at Drinkwater's. I would wonder, too, how a man of his early years could afford to be so lavish with recreational spending, but then I remind myself -- he is a rising mover-and-shaker in Arizona's ever-explosive real estate market. These developer types can make more money on a single land deal than most of us do in a year.

I do like Drinkwater's, I tell him, but I'm curious whether he's eaten at our town's newest hot steak spot, The Capital Grille. An offshoot of the prestigious D.C. hangout, the Grille opened its doors this April in the Biltmore Fashion Park, beneath the all-you-can-eat sushi emporium Todai. We've already got Ruth's Chris, Mastros, Harris', Fleming's and Morton's within quick driving distance, and an Omaha Steakhouse right next door to the Biltmore. I can't believe that the Valley has yet another fancy chophouse. Do we really need another one?

For an answer, my buddy calls over his boss. We've been lounging at Bamboo Club in Tempe, sipping Sonoma-Cutter Chardonnay and snacking on a platter of crispy crab won tons, coconut shrimp with mustard sauce, pork pot stickers and Cantonese baby back ribs (sure, it's just 3 in the afternoon on a Tuesday, but I suppose this is a typical workday break for our flush local land moguls). The boss breaks away from chatting with a cute young thing at the bar and plants himself at our table.

"Just heard about Capital Grille. Big-time steak house, brand-new in the Biltmore," my friend says, and the boss lights up with a giant smile. That's all these guys need to know from me -- I'm forgotten in the rubble of vegetarian egg rolls and shrimp-chicken lettuce wraps as they whip out their cell phones and make reservations at The Capital Grille for that very evening.

So perhaps there is room here for another important red meat emporium. At least if it's one of Capital Grille's seductive caliber, and if we're one of the lucky types to pull down a six-figure income. The original Capital Grille, based in Washington, has long been a place to rub shoulders with politicos, and has been written up in gushing terms by Gourmet, the New York Times, the Washington Post, and even the German edition of Playboy ("Die 10 Besten Steakhauser Amerikas"). Expanding to 16 stores across the nation, Capital Grille has brought along its trademark dark wood, leather and linen tablecloth ambiance, and smooth, professional service. One friend of mine, a guy who obsessively seeks out premium steak houses whenever he's in a sizable city, started sharpening his steak knife as soon as I mentioned that the Grille was coming to our town.

The Grille dry ages its beef on premises, in "state-of-the-art" meat lockers, for 14 days. Steaks are hand-cut daily, generously seasoned and grilled to order in oversize portions ranging from 10 to 22 ounces. Yet all the other super-premium steak places age their meat, too, and serve the custom-butchered beef in huge chunks. They all use the best quality prime grade beef. Meals at most are à la carte, with the same classic he-man stuff on the side such as shrimp cocktail, lyonnaise potatoes, creamed spinach, tomato and sweet onion salad. So is this new Capital Grille worth all the fuss?

Yes, actually, it is. Besides its fine food, Capital Grille radiates swaggering power, from its crisply uniformed servers to the ostentatious breadbasket, brimming with a collection of artisan loafs and lavosh. I can guarantee the high-profile business and social crowd will love the cushy treatment (we're greeted by name -- from our reservations -- and the manager stops by to make sure we're happy and personally provide his business card, as if we're big shots or something). Folks like my AmEx roulette players will absolutely devour the attention.

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