Shelby Moore

Mariscos Ensenada may be better known for ceviche and micheladas, but their saucy shrimp taco studded with bacon and cheese are their sleeper hit.

Al Pastorcito D.F. serves a no-nonsense al pastor, shaved from the trompo to order.

At Gallo Blanco, the al pastor isn't roasted on a vertical spit, as is most traditional, but Chef Doug Robson cooks a version that does the original method justice.

At this Phoenix taqueria, barbacoa is cooked in a smoker, which imitates the traditional style of cooking in a pit below ground.

At this Sonoran surf-and-turf-style restaurant, carne asada comes atop a medium-size flour tortilla along with an unchopped green chile and melty Monterey jack cheese.