Tirion Boan
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When the doldrums of summer settled in, we needed a sweet treat — or two — to cheer us up. And boy, did they ever. This month, a stellar banana pudding and a half-dozen whimsical cupcakes lifted our spirits and helped us shake off the summer blues.
A sweet-and-spicy frozen margarita, sipped in a cool, dark bar, didn’t hurt either.
In July, the Phoenix New Times food team also noshed on a stellar sandwich from a new lunch counter, a unique veggie dip and our favorite plate of calamari to date. These bites and sips were good enough to write home about, or in our case, write a list about.
Of all the things we tasted last month, these six were the very best. Here’s where you can try for yourself.
Tirion Boan
Banana pudding at Caldwell County BBQ
Multiple locations
On a recent stormy monsoon evening, we drove out to Peoria to check out the latest Valley location of Caldwell County BBQ. The newly built space is large and airy, with high ceilings and huge windows, through which we watched the dark clouds roll in. We ordered and ate way too much barbecued meat, with a tray loaded with turkey, brisket, burnt ends, green chile mac and cheese and corn casserole. But as we finished our last bites, dust crashed into town. So we decided to wait out the storm a little. What better way to fill our time than with dessert? We hauled ourselves back up to the counter to pick out some Texas sheet cake and grab a cup of banana pudding from the fridge. Creamy layers of pudding made with smoked vanilla beans interchanged with crumbled Nilla Wafers, fresh sliced bananas and fluffy whipped cream. This classic version of the dessert is the platonic ideal of banana pudding.
Tirion Boan
Buddy the Elf Cupcake from Velvet Buttercream
702 W. Camelback Road, #5
Uptown Phoenix bakery Velvet Buttercream rotates its cupcake flavors every week, and over the weekend of July 25, the bakers were celebrating Christmas in July. We stopped by for a half dozen cupcakes and instantly felt the holiday spirit. Some of the options stuck to classic winter flavors, such as peppermint and chocolate, while others added a douse of summer with coconut and fresh fruit. One particular cupcake blew us away with its creativity. Velvet Buttercream captured the famous scene from “Elf” where Buddy chows down on spaghetti filled with candy and topped with maple syrup, all in a cupcake. The honey maple buttercream on top was piped in strands to look like spaghetti, sprinkled with mini M&M’s and topped with a Ferrero Rocher. To add a little sauce to the “meatball,” a tart raspberry jam was drizzled on top. This edible work of art made our inner child squeal with the joy of Christmas morning.
Calamari from Bar Capri
1730 E. Warner Road, #10, Tempe
Bar Capri is a staple for celebrations and family dinners. And on a recent evening, we stopped by to celebrate a birthday. Our table of four started by splitting a few appetizers, including the fried calamari. What arrived at the table was far from a standard plate of battered squid. Yes, there were tender strips of squid that melted in our mouths, but the heaped bowl also included fried shrimp, fried lemon slices and fried olives. The lemons were sliced so thin before they were battered and deep-fried that they became tender, skins and all. These little pops of brightness were a delight among the fried foods. The fried olives were a fascinating textural experience. Not battered, just fried, the black olives turned into a texture almost like dust when you bit through the outer shell. The crumbly, deeply savory black olives were a treat everyone found themselves digging for in this unusual dish.
Sara Crocker
Charred Leek Dip at Matilda’s
822 N. Sixth Ave.
The charming downtown all-day cafe has received plenty of attention for its brunch, coffee and matcha. But Matilda’s stays open into the evenings for dinner, dessert and drinks, too. This appetizer’s vibrant flavors wake up your taste buds for the meal ahead. The dip has a sturdier consistency than classic sour cream and onion dip but the same nostalgic, tangy and umami-laden taste. Instead of the typical chopped chives, the kitchen tops this dip with a bright scallion mignonette and earthy pistachio dukkah. The buttery toast points made sturdy scoops, and the pickled carrots pop with vinegar, whetting our appetite for more.
Sara Crocker
Pink Margarita at Sunny’s Lounge
2701 E. Indian School Road
At this point in the summer, when the pavement seems to sizzle even before the sun comes up, we’re on the hunt for the iciest, coldest drinks we can find, preferably in a dark bar. The problem with many frozen cocktails is that they lack balance, punching you with too much sugar or stinging with acidic tartness. The frozen Pink Margarita from Sunny’s Lounge cooled us off with an inventive take on a frosty strawberry sipper. Part of what helps keep this frozen cocktail in check is the pleasantly fiery addition of Thai chile and the tannic backbone of hibiscus tea. The bar team has done the literal math to balance sweet strawberries, chile spice and the bracing verve of hibiscus and lime. Their hard work is your reward. The first sip is so ice-cold you can feel the chill move down your throat, quickly followed by the sting of Thai chile and ripe strawberries. It’s become our go-to drink to beat the heat and shake off our summer blues.
Sara Crocker
The Hall Pass at Paper Bag Sandwich Co.
1215 E. Missouri Ave.
Turkey sandwiches are a classic deli lunch option. Paper Bag Sandwich Co. levels up the often utilitarian meal with thoughtfully composed stacks. Our favorite from this new Uptown shop takes the ho-hum turkey to new spicy, sweet heights. All of Paper Bag’s sandwiches start with a house Tuscan flatbread, schiacciata. Its bubbly crumb and crunchy, crisp exterior create a solid foundation for these sandwiches. The Hall Pass comes loaded with turkey, whipped ricotta, arugula, hot honey and black pepper. It’s zesty but sweet, creamy and cooling. Turkey, enlivened by the pepper, acts as a savory canvas without overpowering the rest of the toppings the way other cold cuts might. Is it a sandwich we could probably figure out how to make at home? Sure, but we’d rather enjoy it in the dreamy courtyard at The Frederick.
