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Chris Malloy

Bored Baker Pizza Maker

Former Binkley’s and Four Seasons baker Guillermo Magaña has turned to a pizza truck. And by truck, we don’t mean a dainty kitchen on wheels but what looks like a full-on U-haul with an entire wood-burning oven inside, a team of two or three employees, and a chimney to eject smoke. The pizza here is Neapolitan style with thin crust, a puffy rim, and a stupendously hot oven. A three-day rise gives dough nice flavor. Crust is soft and light in the classic Neapolitan style This big truck features a big menu, often a dozen or so pizzas — some heaped with meat blends, others topped with kale and heirloom tomatoes.

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