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China King

This food is Chinatown-good. Or better, since China King's no grungy hole-in-the-wall, but a sunny, clean, spacious restaurant that stands separate from its strip mall neighbors. There's a traditional menu, but we go for the dim sum, available daily. The place is a madhouse on weekends (in a good way), when Asian families crowd around tables covered in bubblegum pink tablecloths, and waitresses in hot pink Chinese-patterned satin vests push dim sum carts from table to table. Most of China King's 50-plus dim sum choices are approachable, with all kinds of dumplings, buns, and rolls. Fluffy, steamed barbecued pork buns, moist shrimp har gow, and savory sticky rice, studded with bits of pork, shrimp, fish cake, and mushroom, are just a few of the highlights. And desserts are surprisingly addictive. Try the pastries stuffed with shredded coconut, sweet lotus seed sesame balls, or creamy green tea Jell-O -- they all taste great with a pot full of fragrant jasmine tea, which should help ward off a full-on food coma.

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