Grand Avenue Pizza Company builds memorable pies with bright, well-balanced sauces made from good-quality crushed tomatoes. They, and various white cheeses, are layered onto crusts neither bready like traditional Neapolitan pies nor flat-and-crisp like Tuscan pizza. Airy and light and both slightly greasy and neatly crisp, the kind of full-flavored, crispy-chewy, foldable crust you want in New York-style pizza, these pies—piled high with combinations of toppings both traditional (pepperoni, green peppers) and rare (Brussels sprouts, anyone?). The best of these is the Large Marge, a two-cheese mozzarella crowded with fresh basil. The 4 Cheeeese is also a winner, deliciously piling on cheddar, parmesan, mozzarella, and sharp feta.