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larder + the delta, the

200 W. Portland St.
Phoenix, AZ 85003
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larder + the delta, the +

Jacob Tyler Dunn

Chef Stephen Jones named his counter at DeSoto Central Market the Larder + the Delta, and when DeSoto tanked, Jones reopened his operation in the scenic surroundings of Portland Parkway Park. The 2018-established Larder is housed in a sleeker, modern space with an efficient little patio and a wraparound bar, and it showcases both local Arizona produce and Jones' talent for elevated Southern fare. Entrees include pork ribs, butcher's steak, chicken fried chicken, and ocean trout. But smaller plates are the main draw here, and they're often quite surprising. The cauliflower is made with Cutino's Hot Sauce; the hoppin' John comes with Carolina Gold rice and Sea Island red peas; the crispy pig ears are heavily dusted with Cheetos. For an extremely memorable order, go with the chicken skins — crunchy treats drizzled with desert blossom honey, orange zest, and lavender. To quench your thirst, the staff is happy to slide just about anything your way: an Old Style can, a coffee negroni, even a hot chicken cocktail (when it's available). New Normal: Reservations are required and can be made via Tock.

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