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Jackie Mercandetti Photo

Ramen Kagawa

Chris Malloy
This downtown ramen shop keeps a tight menu — a few noodle soups prepared almost without fault, and a few other dishes like rice bowls, fried bites, and Japanese curries. Chef Yuji Iwasa, a Los Angeles native, brings a few European techniques to his largely traditional ramen; manager Shunji Tohada, from Hiroshama, brings deep Japanese roots. Tonkotsu ramen is deeply rich and just stellar. You can even add chashu pork ribs if you want. A paitan ramen is unexpectedly lush and satisfying, a local paragon of this common style. Kagawa joins the ranks of great places in the heart of town for a bowl of Japan's favorite noodle soup. New Normal: Dine-in is available, but guests may also order takeout online at Ramen Kagawa's website.

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