Heather Hoch

Clever Koi

Massaman udon noodles with red curry, roasted duck, fingerling potatoes, pickled peppers, peanuts, and crisp cilantro.
Laura Hahnefeld
This sleek midtown restaurant, from former Parlor Pizzeria chefs Jared Porter and Joseph Absolor along with co-owners Joshua James and Nicholas Campisano (who also did time at the pizzeria), is more or less a Chinese-American comfort food head trip. Porter and Absolor's tight selection of reinvented street snacks, rice and noodle dishes, and steamed buns and dumplings are deliciously inauthentic, the two chefs both paying tribute to -- and taking wild liberties with -- each Asian dish. Read our review.