4

Ankimo, the Foie Gras of Japan, Gets a Modern Tweak at Hana

^
Keep New Times Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Phoenix and help keep the future of New Times free.

See also: Hana's Lori Hashimoto Dishes on Brazilian Lobster, Magic Knives and Keeping It All in the Family See also: Round Two with Lori Hashimoto

Food-istas like to say that ankimo -- the huge one-pound liver of the monkfish -- is the foie gras of Japan. After it's been marinated, steamed, and rolled in a cylinder (much like a torchon), its texture becomes smooth and silky, its flavor rich but surprisingly delicate. It practically melts away on the tongue.

If foie can be called meat-butter, then ankimo is surely fish-butter, a dish traditionally eaten cold with little more than chile-tinted grated daikon, ponzu, and the lightest sprinkle of minced green onion or chive.

Lori Hashimoto of Hana Japanese Eatery has put a modern spin on ankimo, and it hasn't gone over well with her sushi tradition-steeped parents, who seem a wee bit scandalized.

Hashimoto -- who works behind the sushi bar with her step-dad and brother -- has created what she calls an Ankimo Slider, putting a luscious round of the sake-marinated and steamed monkfish liver on a slice of lemon, giving it a dash of sesame oil, topping it with a fried quail egg and finishing it with a bit of grated daikon, green onion, sriracha, togarashi (a Japanese spice mixture containing chile pepper), and slivers of nori.

Adding sriracha and sesame oil may seem bold to tradition-lovers, but the real shocker (for Hashimoto's folks, anyway) is adding the cooked quail egg, which means mixing hot and cold ingredients. They'd probably faint over some of the crazy concoctions that now pass for sushi.

In any case, her parents, who refuse to try Hashimoto's creation, admit that it looks pretty. Her step-dad Kaz-san even goes so far as to say that her plating is "very female," which we'll take to mean feminine.

But the very modernity they object to probably will be what Hana fans like best about the dish -- a no-fear mash-up of flavors that includes heat, acidity, and the richness of egg yolk combining with buttery ankimo.

Probably the best way to settle this debate is to see for yourself. Hashimoto's Ankimo Slider went on the menu last week. $12.95 buys two sliders -- such a deal for such a delicacy.


Follow Chow Bella on Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest.

Keep Phoenix New Times Free... Since we started Phoenix New Times, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Phoenix, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Phoenix with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in Phoenix.

 

Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in Phoenix.