Hiw Kaow, a mobile trailer serving Laos-inspired takes on traditional Thai takeout, is building a reputation for punchy, savory dishes and bringing an enthusiastic, fresh approach to food truck fare in the Valley.
After opening their business in fall 2024, brother and sister chef duo Kik and Nickki Sidavone are amassing a loyal following, with fans eagerly awaiting the weekly location update.
The idea of owning and running a restaurant on wheels still seems a little surreal, especially since the Sidavones started out making food just for themselves.
“My dad, he still can’t believe it, and some days I can’t even believe it," Kik says. "I’m a chef!”
Recreating the past
The siblings grew up in Laos, where their family owned a restaurant. During their formative years, they were surrounded by people cooking, sharing recipes and talking about food, and these experiences made a lasting impression.The story of Hiw Kaow began in 2017 when Kik followed his older sister to Phoenix. Initially, they shared an apartment and often cooked together, trying to recreate their favorite dishes to circumvent homesickness.
“We started thinking about what we were going to do, how we could make our way, and we saw a food truck for sale and we thought, ‘Let’s try it out,'” Kik explains.
The duo decided to lean into their strengths. As a baseline, they knew that they wanted to eat and make good food, focusing on dishes that they loved and would want to share with the city. They also knew that they could trust and be honest with each other.
One sibling would test a recipe, and the other would give notes. The two would talk about flavor profiles, portions and plating. As their confidence grew, the menu slowly took shape.
“Nickki is amazing at cooking. She is better than me, I think, in some respects. My cooking style is snack food for drinking, things to absorb alcohol and the party going, and hers is family style dishes from our childhood," Kik says. "So when we combine them, it seems like the perfect mix."
A mutual love of Thai food influenced the final offerings, such as Pad See Ew (rice noodles with chicken or shrimp), Pad Thai and Kaow Pad (Thai fried rice). However, the Sidavones added what Kik refers to as the “Laos approach” to the staples.
“To me, it’s more of the flavors, more sweet, more sour. We just push the flavors further for our liking. We try to keep it simple, but the contrast of those things makes it more flavorful,” Kik explains.
Perfect bites
These Laos-style Thai staples are indeed flavorful. The dishes are sweeter and funkier, more umami-forward and noticeably less spicy than what you might encounter at your favorite Thai spot.The Pad See Ew’s rice noodles are perfect at capturing the sweet and savory sauce, with ample amounts of chicken or shrimp, egg and the added crunch of carrot and Chinese broccoli.
The secret ingredient, however, may be the phenomenal Nam Jim Jaew sauce, which Kik makes from scratch daily. The sauce, made with vinegar, garlic, rice powder and tamarind, puts the already exceptional whole chicken wings into another stratosphere.
Kik models a “perfect Laos bite” by dunking a still steaming wing into the sauce, taking a bite and immediately chasing it with a bite of sticky rice. The contrast of the crispy bits of rice, punchy garlic vinegar and fatty, juicy meat make for a life-changing chomp.
Kik also advocates for another perfect bite with the crispy pork belly.
“The pork belly is what I call my style; it’s juicy, fatty, lots of flavor and it goes perfect with the side of cucumber, cabbage, combined sticky rice and the Nam Jim Jaew sauce. We do it all in one bite," he says.
To complete the experience, order the papaya salad, which is an easy contender for salad of the summer. Lime juice, pa daek fermented fish sauce and garlic gently coat shredded green papaya, halved cherry tomatoes and crisp green beans. Every component is a refreshing reminder that sometimes the simplest dishes can be the most satisfying.
The menu, rounded out by crab-fried rice, fried tofu, potstickers, Thai tea and coffee, debuted at the Asian District Night Market last October to resounding success.
“We had never done a service before, and suddenly we were at this big event. We just dove in, and we sold out before the end of the night,” Kik recalls.
Looking to the future
As the truck has continued to pop up throughout the Valley, with favorite spots like Crete Tearoom and Trevor's Liquor in Scottsdale, it's gaining a loyal following. Kik is seeing an uptick in returning regulars, regardless of what part of town the truck happens to be parked that week, along with some high-profile fans.
James Beard-nominated chef Lawrence “LT” Smith heard of the Sidavones' food and invited them to his ongoing “Street Service” dinner series at his restaurant, Chilte, for a collaboration dinner.
The partnership came about through a mutual friend: Jen Cho, a local food and travel influencer known on social media as Foodiehand. Cho became a repeat customer at Hiw Kaow and posted rave reviews on her pages.
“Once I had his food, I made it a point to stop by whenever I could because everything is just so good,” Cho recalls.
The Street Service collaboration dinner is set for July 28 and offered Kik a chance to run the line at a brick-and-mortar restaurant. That, in the end, is the goal for an up-and-coming chef who makes a point to arrange each takeout box with the care of an upscale eatery, complete with edible flowers.
“We want to make food that tastes good and looks pretty. When the customer opens it up, even if it is to go, they smile," Kik says.
As the Sidavones continue to build their following, Kik seems content to keep his head down and do the work.
“At the end of the day, I try to make good food, share my culture and just look at the future," he says. "We’re doing it Laos-style."
