I have a dirty little secret: I never really liked Christmas ham!

Which is why this "Seven Fishes" Christmas Eve seafood splurge at Quiessence sounds so delicious. (Here's the menu.)

It was inspired by a coastal Italian holiday tradition, where people would celebrate Christmas with a whole dinner of fish. And the way chef Greg LaPrad interprets it, that means a five-course, family-style meal of crab claws, oysters on the half-shell, New England lobster casserole, fried smelts, and other delicacies.

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Don't wait for Santa to make your reservations, though; call 602-276-0601 yourself, or get your elf to do it. Space is limited, seatings are from 5:30 to 7 p.m., and it's $79 per person, plus tax and tip. -- Michele Laudig 

• Chow Bella