Jackie Mercandetti Photo

Century Grand

For years, Jason Asher and Rich Furnari have defined the cutting edge of local cocktail culture, and Century Grand and Undertow are the culmination of their efforts. Highly stylized and themed, conceived with the help of a Disney engineer to conjure a dim Prohibition-era train station, the creative cocktails at Century Grand relate to stops on once-mighty American railways. Cocktails are studied and heavily imaginative, weaving in ingredients like kefir and smoked tea, banana-infused cream, and toasted sesame oil. Century Grand’s two distinct parts are all excellent. First, there’s the Grey Hen, which has an absurd selection of small-batch and high-end whiskeys in a room with an old-time New Orleans apothecary motif. Second, there’s Platform 18 — a Pullman car outfit like a train that creates the sensation of motion using TVs. The duo’s tiki concept, Undertow, uses sound, tropical decor, and menu descriptions to tell the ever-evolving story of a fictional sea voyage. Cocktails range from wild riffs to classics first concocted by Don the Beachcomber, godfather of tiki.