^
Keep New Times Free

Chantico

1051 E. Camelback Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85014
602-687-9080
Chantico

Chris Malloy

Walter Sterling and the Ocotillo crew’s latest restaurant channels Mexican influences as far north as Sonora (a Sonoran rib-eye) and as far south as Yucatan (cochinita pibil). That cochinita sears the brain, and not just with chiles. An order brings a pile of richly spiced pork that retains the animal's full charm, roasted in a banana leaf. The kicker: an arsenal of expertly pickled vegetables, including nopales, micro-thin onions, and offbeat carrots. Chantico’s al pastor is a strong, pineapple-forward rendition. Though tacos come loaded, tortillas could use a bit of work. This early discordant note is more than offset by dishes like duck leg drenched in black mole — which sees a skinless trapezoid of grilled orange to create stunning depth — a plate with flavors of alarming contrast and harmony.

Related Stories (3)

Menu

View All

More Mexican Restaurants in Central Phoenix

View All

More Mexican Restaurants in Phoenix

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in Phoenix.

 

Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in Phoenix.