"We'll always have Paris," said Rick (Humphrey Bogart) in the classic film, Casablanca. And thanks to Jeff Kraus, where a life-altering trip to the the City of Light inspired his award-winning mobile kitchen, Truckin' Good Food, and currently, his months-old eatery, Crêpe Bar, in Tempe, so do we.
Through crepes, those lusciously thin French pancakes made with light sauces and fillings, Kraus seems to have found the perfect balance of artistry and discipline. His savory and sweet creations are a simple, mindful harmony of quality ingredients and deftness in execution while at the same time allowing room for exploration and imagination -- and there isn't a clunker in the bunch.
Here's an excerpt from this week's review:
"And sandwiches get Kraus' crepe treatment as well. The light pancake rolled around tender and flavorful turkey with a snappy rémoulade sauce, white cheddar cheese, celery root, and sweet and sour stone fruit mostarda might as well be a delicate but highly flavorful wrap. And the Papa K, my favorite, is more or less the crepe version of a ham and cheese hoagie. Its top-notch pork, rich mushroom ragout, and baby spinach folded into a golden triangle edged with crispy, griddled strands of cheese gets even better with a sprinkle or two of the accompanying basil sea salt."
Hungry for more? Check out my full review of Jeff Kraus' Crêpe Bar.