When it comes to dining out and old buildings, there might not be a time more fortuitous in Valley history than to be a part of Mr. DeMarco's neighborhood.
DeMarco as in Craig DeMarco, the restaurateur who, along with his Upward Projects team, has gobbled up once-forgotten structures clustered along Central Avenue north of Camelback Road and transformed them into popular neighborhood gathering spots (Postino Central, Windsor, Churn) that are as much about style as they are about food.
DeMarco's latest conquest is Federal Pizza. As with his other restaurants, it's a bustling yet intimate place. And its dishes -- heady roasted vegetables, luscious pasta, and puffy-crusted pizzas laden with toppings -- are not so much reinvented as they are crafted with expert care.
Here's an excerpt from this week's review:
"Of course, there are the pizzas. Designed by MJ Coe, one of the Valley's best-known master bakers, the 12-inch pies feature a light and crispy outer crust with a thick, puffy edge, a slightly chewy interior, and a harmonious flavor balance of toppings applied deftly by the kitchen. They are not the best you've had in the Valley, but that is not an indictment of Federal's pies; they are actually quite good."
Hungry for more? Read my full review of Federal Pizza here.