Cafe Reviews

Federal Pizza: (More) Style and Well-Crafted Food on Central Avenue

When it comes to dining out and old buildings, there might not be a time more fortuitous in Valley history than to be a part of Mr. DeMarco's neighborhood.

See also: The Secret Is Out on New India Bazaar & Cuisine and Angels Trumpet Ale House Nails Beer, Fails on Food

DeMarco as in Craig DeMarco, the restaurateur who, along with his Upward Projects team, has gobbled up once-forgotten structures clustered along Central Avenue north of Camelback Road and transformed them into popular neighborhood gathering spots (Postino Central, Windsor, Churn) that are as much about style as they are about food.

DeMarco's latest conquest is Federal Pizza. As with his other restaurants, it's a bustling yet intimate place. And its dishes -- heady roasted vegetables, luscious pasta, and puffy-crusted pizzas laden with toppings -- are not so much reinvented as they are crafted with expert care.

Here's an excerpt from this week's review:

"Of course, there are the pizzas. Designed by MJ Coe, one of the Valley's best-known master bakers, the 12-inch pies feature a light and crispy outer crust with a thick, puffy edge, a slightly chewy interior, and a harmonious flavor balance of toppings applied deftly by the kitchen. They are not the best you've had in the Valley, but that is not an indictment of Federal's pies; they are actually quite good."

Hungry for more? Read my full review of Federal Pizza here.

KEEP PHOENIX NEW TIMES FREE... Since we started Phoenix New Times, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Phoenix, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Laura Hahnefeld
Contact: Laura Hahnefeld