Cafe Reviews

Tumi in Chandler Serves Up Stellar Ceviche and Other Peruvian Delights

Oscar Graham, chef and owner of Tumi, the tiny and unassuming restaurant of Peruvian cuisine in Chandler, makes very good ceviche.

His ceviche de pescado features a mound of chopped pieces of white-flesh tilapia in a thin, bracingly sharp and spicy juice of lime and Peruvian chile peppers, topped with slivers of red onion and served with a soft hunk of sweet potato and a quarter-ear of pearly, large-kernel Peruvian corn.

"You can eat ceviche in every city in Peru and they all have a different flavor," says front-of-the-house manager and Lima-born Franklin Foronda "Here, we make our dishes the way they would in Lima -- from the coast."

And Graham's excellent ceviche isn't the only Peruvian dish worth tasting at Tumi.

See also: - Spoke & Wheel Pedals to Mediocrity - Doug Robson Nails It Again at Otro Cafe

Here's an excerpt from this week's review:

"There is the comforting, stew-like aji de gallina, featuring strips of chicken in a somewhat spicy sauce of milk, bread, Parmesan cheese, chiles, garlic, and nuts; lomo saltado, the popular Peruvian and Chinese fusion dish made with tender slices of beef stir-fried with red onions, chiles, garlic, and tomatoes in a vinegary, sweet, and cilantro-kissed sauce delectably sopped up by its foundation of fries; and excellent pollo a la brasa, or Peruvian grilled chicken. Graham's version, marinated for 24 hours and made with more than 20 ingredients -- including dark beer, soy sauce, chile peppers, rosemary, and cumin -- before taking a spin in the rotisserie oven, is pretty much perfect. Order it up with the standard salad and fries and forget your table manners -- this fowl is traditionally eaten with the hands."

Hungry for more? Read my full review of Tumi Fine Peruvian Cuisine in Chandler here.

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Laura Hahnefeld
Contact: Laura Hahnefeld