Cafe Reviews

Brewski & Such

Copper Canyon Brewing & Alehouse, 5945 West Ray, Chandler, 705-9700. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Sunday through Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

Ireland's patron saint had quite a life. Born in Britain, the boy was captured by pirates at age 16 and brought to the Emerald Isle as a slave.

Six years later he escaped, vowing to one day return and convert the heathen Irish to Christianity.

He spent the next 20 years in France, studying with the Church's learned men. Then, with the pope's blessing, he returned to Ireland in A.D. 431 to begin his historic task. Through the years, he baptized more than 100,000 souls and built 300 churches. According to legend, he charmed the snakes out of the country. And by using the three-leaf shamrock to illustrate the mystery of the Trinity, he turned it into the national symbol.

Next Monday we celebrate the birthday of this holy man, Saint Patrick. How? By wearing green underwear, pinning on "Kiss Me, I'm Irish" buttons and consuming huge quantities of beer.

Oh, well. In these decadent, fin de siecle years, the prospect of an all-day brew fest is much more likely to galvanize the population than, say, a reading of Saint Patrick's Letter to Coroticus. Happily, our town boasts two new brew pubs where you can confidently raise your glass and honor his sainted memory.

Copper Canyon and Tombstone Brewing Company are riding the front edge of a brew-pub wave that's about to wash over the Valley. Five years ago, you could have counted the number of local places that manufactured their own brewskis on the fingers of one hand, and still have had enough digits left over to flash a peace sign. From what I hear, however, by the end of 1997 you'll be needing all your fingers and toes to total them up.

No doubt beer is the soul of any brew-pub operation. But to me, food is the heart. And when heart and soul are working harmoniously, as they are at Copper Canyon, you can be sure the body's going to have a pretty good time.

Copper Canyon is set in one of the thriving East Valley's cookie-cutter shopping centers, and its interior isn't much more distinctive. The gleaming brewery equipment is on view in a glass-enclosed room behind the bar. The airy dining room features undistinguished abstract art hung on the walls. The Doors, Bob Seger and the Eagles spill out over the music system. A vase on the table with a sprig of barley is a nice touch.

But, frankly, folks aren't going to be paying much attention to the decor once they start on the beer. Copper Canyon brews some seriously excellent suds.

I went through all the beers, via the $5.95, seven-beer, three-ounce sampler. They're crafted to appeal to just about every taste. I feared the cinnamon-maple winter ale might be cloyingly sweet and overpowering, but the brewmaster kept it in line. The "razzbeery" ale has a cutesy name, but this fruity beverage makes a good "one for the road" quaff. However, these two beers don't pair particularly well with food.

If you're eating and drinking, I'd suggest the Gila Gold Pale Ale, my favorite beer here. It's powerful and flavorful, with a taste that doesn't quit. If you prefer your brews a bit heavier, choose the toasty brown ale or the full-bodied stout. If you're looking for something less intense, the Knotty Amber is marvelous, in the same class as the Gila Gold. The honey-blond brew, the lightest offering, doesn't have quite the pizzazz of its mates.

But along with the beer, the fare also helps set Copper Canyon apart. Imagine, a tavern that doesn't have onion rings, potato skins or chicken wings on its appetizer list. Instead, there are off-the-beaten-track nibbles like the lovely bowl of green chile, livened up with shredded pork, beans, onions and cilantro, served with tortillas. The warm artichoke dip is also first-rate, thickly swirled with cheese and accompanied by chips and French bread for dunking. A smoked chicken quesadilla and spicy grilled shrimp are the other two starter options.

Most of the main-dish fare would work even if you were a teetotaler. At $14.95, one evening's salmon special topped the price list, but no one will complain about a lack of value. A large fillet, cooked to moist, flaky specifications in a bit of ale, comes with mushrooms, rice and squash. It's a very tasty platter.

Veal marsala is not an entree that comes to mind when you're knocking back pints of microbrews. Nevertheless, Copper Canyon's version may work its way into your consciousness. It's competently done, thin-sliced veal sauteed with mushrooms and onions in a winy sauce.

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Howard Seftel