Lent is a time of self-denial, but there's one treat unique to this time of year.
At Pitic and at other Mexican eateries in town, the devout are capping off their Lent-friendly meals with capirotada, an interesting type of bread pudding that, at first glance, looks anything but inviting.
"It's for la cuaresma," says Pitic regular Eufemia Amabisca, who along with her husband, Eduardo, is enjoying a small bowl of the sweet dessert.
By cuaresma, Amabisca is referring to the 40 days of Lent, a period when most Catholics pass on eating meat, beginning on Ash Wednesday and continuing through subsequent Fridays. It's an old tradition with Italian, Moorish and possibly Jewish roots that were brought to Latin America where it is practiced, um, religiously.
Recipes for the dish can vary greatly. Just ask the Amabiscas, who rib each other gently about how great each of their mom's versions are. And as Eufemia puts it, capirotada can mean "a little bit of everything." A quick search on the Web confirms that notion.
Typically, however, syrup is made from boiling piloncillo cones (pure brown sugar), cinnamon sticks, cloves, tomatoes and onions, which are then drained and poured over a layer of sliced French or Italian bread (bolillos, crusty Mexican rolls, can also be used). Placed on a buttered or oiled pan, the bread is usually toasted to better soak up the sweet brew.
An assortment of pecans, unsalted peanuts, raisins, bananas, apples and sometimes dried fruits is placed on the bread, along with a variety of cheeses. The process is repeated for several layers and the entire dish is put in the oven for 30 minutes at 350 degrees.
If you'd prefer the store-bought variety, a safe bet is Phoenix Ranch Market, where capirotada is made with shredded coconut and is served daily ($2.99/lb).
It's strictly a Friday treat at Pitic and at El Portal, where owner Mary Rose Wilcox offered her version. This time, a bit heavy on the syrup. "Next week, it will be better," she says with a reassuring smile.
