Though the ten-inch, crackly, fresh Polish sausage is flavorful and nice, nothing can redeem the meal for me at this point. I rebel at the sight of it, and I'm not too keen on its taste, either. The sweet-and-sour cabbage and sauerkraut are unappealing, mushy and room-temperature. The pork loin is thick, dry and boring. The sliced dumpling reminds me of a sponge. I am not happy.
Our waitress zips over to our table to make sure we're still alive. She hovers hardly long enough for a response. With the help of Plochman's, we finish off a good eight inches of sausage, but ask to pack away the pork for later.
I inquire about dessert and am given three options: rainbow sherbet, vanilla ice cream or kolatschen. "It's like a danish," our waitress says. ("What, no tapioca?" Goat wonders aloud.) Need I tell you what we select?
An instrumental version of "Our Day Will Come" fills the dining room when Roadrunner brings us our pastries. She is right on target with her description. Kolatschen resembles a small cream cheese danish. Served hot, it ranks up there with the potato pancakes as one of the highlights of the meal. But it's too late for redemption.
We are in and out of Golden Prague in an hour and fifteen minutes. Frankly, it's not too quick for me. Since I last visited five years ago, food and service have really taken a dive. Golden Prague needs to straighten out its priorities and quit catering to the Sun City clientele. If the food is good enough, people will make the trip. I know I would.
White Nights Russian Restaurant and Deli, 13822 North 32nd Street, Phoenix, 493-2406. Hours: (Restaurant) Thursday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m. (Deli) Monday through Saturday, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. The Golden Prague Restaurant, 9440 West Peoria Avenue, Peoria 878-0557. Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.; Monday, 4 to 8 p.m. World affairs affect me in an odd way: They make me hungry. Current events in Lithuania and Eastern Europe have compelled me to seek out this region's cuisine.
NOT FOR WHITES ONLY TRACY CHAPMAN GETS B... v5-16-90