Cafe Reviews

Rise and Dine

Terrace Dining Room, Phoenician resort, 6000 East Camelback, Phoenix, 941-8200. Hours: Breakfast, Monday through Saturday, 6 to 11a.m.; Sunday, 6 to 10 a.m.

"And what room shall I charge the meal to?" asked the smiling waitress at the luxurious Valley resort restaurant, as I took my last sip of get-the-blood-stirring morning coffee.

"Actually, we're not staying at the hotel," I replied. "We live in Phoenix."
"Oh, what a great idea," she said. "I would never have thought of coming here just for breakfast."

Well, that's why they pay me the big bucks, to come up with ideas like this.
Let's face it, most working stiffs don't have much chance to dine at any of the Valley's swanky resort restaurants. That's because dinner for two at these high-priced dining rooms can easily run into triple digits.

But breakfast is another story. Try not to think of the $12 to $15 per person you'll spend for weekday wake-up fare at the Phoenician, Arizona Biltmore or Marriott's Camelback Inn as unconscionable price gouging. Instead, think of it as the cost of a reasonably priced meal out. The only difference is that, unlike most eating-out excursions, this one takes place at the start, rather than at the end, of your day.

What do your dollars buy? At the Phoenician's Terrace Dining Room, some of them surely get funneled toward plants and equipment. This place is gorgeous: marble floor, glistening chandeliers, colorful murals, piped-in Bach and views of a sun-drenched terrace. The tables are draped with white linen, set with expensive silverware and decorated with flowers. The setting makes the prospect of toiling eight hours at the office easier to swallow.

So does the food. The Phoenician may have been conceived in sin--the first proprietor, Charlie Keating, is spending lots of time in a federal Big House for looting the accounts of widows and orphans to fund his grandiose development plans--but the current owner, the Sheraton corporation, is doing appropriate penance: Except in rare instances, it doesn't cut culinary corners or take shortcuts. Just about everything here is first-rate.

Check out the buttermilk pancakes. You'll be pleased by three enormous disks, served with real maple syrup. Your employer will be equally pleased. You'll be more productive because you won't need to stop for a 10:30 snack.

Belgian waffles are also appealing. They have a beguiling, slightly sweet taste, and they're served with strawberries and the most divine Devonshire cream in the entire Southwest. One spoonful, and you'll never be able to put up with Reddi-Wip again.

You may think eggs are eggs, and omelets are omelets. I more or less thought so, too, until I ran into the Southwestern Egg and Potato Skillet. It's absolutely riveting, a luscious blend of chorizo, onions, tomatoes, peppers, several cheeses and potatoes. I expected something a little more compelling from the accompanying toast, which tasted like it came from a plastic bag on a supermarket shelf. Little jars of English jam and marmalade, however, helped mitigate my disappointment.

The bread also kept the sun-dried cherry French toast with pine nuts from achieving a perfect score. Artistically, the cherries, pine nuts and maple syrup deserve a "10." But I had to subtract some points for technical merit: The commercial-looking bread can't match the thick-sliced, homemade cinnamon bread used for French toast at T.C.Eggington's Brunchery in Mesa.

Saving on wine is another reason to consider making breakfast, not dinner, your meal out. At the Terrace Dining Room breakfast, you get to splurge on side dishes, not alcohol. You can, for instance, order four slices of fragrant, thick-cut hickory-smoked bacon for about the same price as a good glass of Chardonnay. I find that's the best way to look at the $5.75 cost. No sense thinking to yourself, as I momentarily did, that you could feed three people a Grand Slam breakfast at Denny's for about the same price.

If you can reach full consciousness without a morning jolt of caffeine from coffee, consider washing down breakfast with hot chocolate. The rich model here is wonderfully intense--it tastes like molten Swiss chocolate. The coffee, elegantly served in a silver carafe, is also superb. At $2.50, it should be.

A warning note: Don't confuse the skimpy weekday brunch with the opulent Sunday spread. The buffet table is heavy on fruit and pastries, and no bargain at $14.75.

After breakfast, stroll around the lush grounds. Not only will this aid digestion, it will also give you the time to develop a plausible excuse for being late for work.

Wright's, Arizona Biltmore, 24th Street and Missouri, Phoenix, 955-6600. Hours: Breakfast, Monday through Friday, 7 to 11:30 a.m.

About nine months ago, I had a wretched dining experience at Wright's, the refurbished Arizona Biltmore's fancy new restaurant. After my review appeared, the hotel's director of public relations sent me a polite letter. She said the hotel was committed to improving Wright's.

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Howard Seftel