A time-honored tradition in many Italian-American households, the feast is a multi-course meal served on Christmas Eve, focusing on different seafood dishes. Exact recipes differ from household to household, but the common thread is the number — if done traditionally, seven different types of fish are served throughout the evening.
At the now-closed Tomaso's on Camelback, the feast was a tradition that spanned decades. After being part of many different variations of the meal at his family’s restaurants, Maggiore was touched by the enthusiastic response from diners, especially those previously unfamiliar with the custom.
“People look forward to it,” he says. “I don’t know if they really know what the term ‘Seven Fishes’ means, but they love the tradition behind it. It’s really nice.”
Now, Maggiore is continuing the tradition at his newest venture, The Italiano. Available through Dec. 30, the five-course menu is $95 per person, with a minimum of two customers. Reservations can be made online.
The feast incorporates seafood dishes that Maggiore states are “98%” family recipes. Throughout the meal, guests will taste and experience cuisine from multiple regions of Italy.
“You can be Italian for one night,” Maggiore says. “You can be toured through Italy.”
The full feast is typically served in a specific order. Over The Italiano’s five courses, diners start with fried fish and salads before eating pasta and a heartier main course, then finish with some dessert.
Start your meal with polenta and prawns with a spicy red wine sauce, plus fritto misto which includes a selection of fried shrimp, calamari, fennel and zucchini blossoms.
Following the fried fish comes the salad, which might look different from what a typical American diner would expect. Instead of leafy greens, this one has six different types of seafood, mixed with warm potatoes, olives and a spicy Calabrian chile oil.
The third course focuses on pasta. Referred to as a primi piatti, The Italiano will offer rigatoni alla vodka with jumbo prawns before the main course.
“In Italy, pasta is never an entree,” Maggiore explains.
The rigatoni is one of the few dishes on the menu that Maggiore didn’t eat growing up, but knows it’s something that will appeal to a wider audience.
“Traditionally, we would have pasta con le sardi, but people tend to get turned off by anchovy and sardines,” Maggiore says.
For the fourth course, Maggiore created four different entrees for guests to choose from. One of the standout dishes is the stuffed swordfish, which he mentions was something he and his family ate during trips to Italy.
It starts with a thinly sliced swordfish filet, which is then stuffed with breadcrumbs, pine nuts, raisins, provolone cheese and salami. The fish is then char-grilled and served with three pieces to a skewer, alongside sauteed escarole and Tuscan potatoes.
“That dish really reminds me of my father and our holidays in Sicily,” Maggiore says.
The dessert course features a rainbow cake and struffoli, sweet fried dough balls drizzled with honey.
The Italiano
The build-your-own concept has become a staple at Maggiore’s restaurants like Hash Kitchen and the recently-shuttered The Rosticceria. At The Italiano, Maggiore is keeping the vibe more elevated than the aforementioned spots, largely due in part to the influence of his father.
While the family’s patriarch preferred keeping things traditional, Maggiore became known for pushing the envelope with his over-the-top concepts. After his father died, the chef mentioned that every new restaurant, moving forward, would be built in a way that would earn his father’s kiss of approval.
With The Italiano, Maggiore chose to infuse his signature style into the decor, complete with a mural ceiling, crystal chandeliers and a piano player. But when it came to the food, he went back to the basics, sticking to the recipes his father served during family dinners, Christmas or otherwise.
“I wanted to make this my Tomaso’s,” Maggiore says. “I wanted to make him proud.”
