First Sip: Take a walk on the wild side of wine at Sauvage

It's a bit of a gamble selling only natural wines, which aren’t always understood. Some think they’re always funky, sour or flawed, but Sauvage owner Chris Lingua says that's not the case, instead likening them to indie movies versus Hollywood blockbusters or vinyl records versus digital recordings.

“It elicits an emotion," he says. "Sometimes they have a little more soul.”

Natural wines are generally defined as being fermented by native yeast and having less than 40 parts per million of sulfur (which is used as a preservative). They are made from grapes that are farmed at least organically but preferably biodynamically and undergo no fining or filtering.

One of the advantages, Lingua notes, is that people who are allergic to sulfites can usually drink natural wines. In fact, many people who think they’re “allergic” to red wine are actually allergic to products like the egg whites or shrimp shells used in fining to clarify the wine. He says there are a “gajillion” sulfites in other foods like dried fruit, but people don’t realize it.

Another attraction at Sauvage is the ambiance. It's a far cry from the compact bottle shop in The Churchill, where Lingua built a following from 2018 to 2022, until moving into the charming bungalow. The Helen Anderson House has been home to many businesses over its long history, most recently Luana's Coffee & Beer, which survived the pandemic but had to move to Thomas Road in January 2022 after the property owner sold the building.

Now home to Sauvage, Lingua's concept fully embraces its environs, eschewing the common sleek, modern glass-and-steel wine bar feel in favor of a cozy, antique vibe, with upholstered chairs and settees, curio cabinets and potted plants. The walls are decorated with classic movie posters, historic photos and quirky artwork.

“I wanted to honor the house,” Lingua says. “I didn’t want to put a touchscreen in a classic car. I don’t even have a digital sound system.”

Instead, guest DJs spin a variety of vinyl. Most nights it's a mix of post-disco, boogie, old soul and R&B. But there are surprises: One night, the owner of the Dirty Drummer brought a collection of outlaw country albums and Sauvage has also hosted names like Mori Ra out of Osaka, Japan. The vibe changes as the night goes on, Lingua says, getting moodier and louder.

Each night can have a different feel, and so can each room. One has a large communal table that's great for groups. Others have intimate conversation areas ideal for date night. On a recent afternoon visit, one couple brought their baby and sat in a sunny parlor. And there's a cute patio with four wooden picnic tables and shade umbrellas that beckon as long as it's not too hot out.

But the bar is the place to be for asking questions about the wine. The service Lingua provides is earnest and unpretentious. He’s happy to offer tastes and explain his philosophy to anyone curious to know more. And the bar is also great for people-watching. It's where friends meet up after work or solo drinkers belly up for a glass en route to other plans. On a Friday evening, no seat sat empty for long as a parade of stylish 20-somethings rotated through. One couple simply popped in to buy a few bottles to go, one of the many ways to utilize this bar and bottleshop.

What's on the wine list?

The ever-changing drinks list is organized into categories that include aperitif, sparkling, white, rosé, orange, lighter red, full-bodied red and digestif. On a recent visit, the list included 16 by-the-glass selections ranging from $11 to $21 and 32 bottles from $34 to $212.

Also, all 150 to 170 bottles on the shelves are available to drink on-site for a $10 corkage fee. House white, rosé and red from a box is available for $8 a glass.

The list leaned heavily toward Europe — particularly France and Italy, but also Germany, Spain and the Czech Republic. And most weren’t from heavy hitters like Burgundy, Bordeaux, Rioja, or Tuscany, but lesser-explored regions, at least for most Americans, like Languedoc, Jura, Marche and Alto Adige.

Lingua says not only are natural wines more prevalent in Europe, but he prefers the European offerings.

“Usually our domestic ones are less rustic; the fruit is a little bit more in your face,” he says. “Over there, it’s like you can taste the cellar and it’s dank. You can almost taste the history versus the lack of history.”

The few Californian options came from Sonoma, San Luis Obispo and Santa Cruz. The Dunites Pet Nat  from San Louis Obispo is an ideal intro wine for anyone wanting to test the waters because it’s simple and approachable with a lightly fruity finish.

“Pet nat,” or pétillant natural translates to naturally sparkling and is an age-old way of quickly making an uncomplicated bubbly with a single fermentation in the bottle.

The orange wines, including a dry Moscato from Abruzzo aged in fiberglass, delivered stronger flavors. Its palate-hammering acidity and yeasty funk overpowered the fruit, although some other drinkers appeared to enjoy it.

A good middle ground was the H. Ludes Thornicher Ritsch Kabinett Riesling from the Mosel, a stunning region of Germany that can turn out anything from sugar-bomb dessert wines to bone-dry, complex whites full of minerality. This one was far on the latter side, with tropical fruit, slate and a bracing finish.

Also interesting in a good way was the Bonhomme ‘Vercheny’ Pinot Noir from the Loire, offering a bright cherry flavor with a hint of roses and a slight mustiness. Fans of the more elegant pinots from Burgundy, Sonoma or Oregon may never be won over, but it’s fascinating to compare the styles.

The house red from Domaine de la Patience, a blend of merlot and carignan, was like any typical happy hour wine: an easy-drinking melange of dark fruit that pairs inoffensively with most food. This is for the friend who’s just there to hang out, not to have an adventure. However, it would be better not to store it in the cold bar fridge because the flavors were obscured for the first 15 minutes until it came alive.

Snacks to pair with sips

The “Provisions” list at first seemed like an odd hodgepodge, roaming from bar snacks to summer squash with labneh to an ice cream sandwich. But after a few plates, it made sense — all of the food is chosen for its quality and to spark the palate in surprising ways.

Specials might include burrata, crudo or mousse, and make sure to ask if anything is “off-menu." Recently, the undisclosed item was a pair of smoky sausage sliders from Underbelly Meat Co. with a crisp, sweet, yet acidic salted apple slaw on Hawaiian rolls dressed with Kewpie mayo that paired ideally with the riesling.

A couple of dishes familiar at most any wine bar, but better here, were the Vin Blanc Olives and cheese plate. The olives offered a bright pop of balanced acidity without any pucker and a meaty texture that complemented a variety of wines.

The Beemster aged gouda was creamy, sharp and not too salty, while the tangy Red Dragon cheddar sent up a slight bite thanks to embedded mustard seeds, finishing with a mellow richness from a Welsh brown ale used in making it. They both married well with reds, and the whiff of ale in the Red Dragon complemented the cidery notes in the pinot noir.

Tinned fish has become a staple at some wine bars, and the smoked salmon here was moist and delicate, not rubbery or oversalted. However, the chive creme fraiche could’ve used more oniony punch. Skip the overpriced popcorn with olive oil, which was full of unpopped kernels and would benefit from some seasoning.

Cookies and ice cream at a wine bar are unexpected, but the warm cookie made with whole grain oats, Valhrona chocolate and sea salt from nearby local baker theDinersaur topped with brown butter ice cream was the perfect ending. And the Forthave "Mithrodates" Vino Amaro IV from Brooklyn, an aromatic, herbaceous digestif, somehow worked like a charm with the sweets — just as the server promised — because it provided a gently bitter counterbalance.

Sauvage won’t be to everyone’s taste. Lingua says some people will never “get” natural wines because they constantly compare them to wines that have been manipulated for a mass market that values consistency and specific qualities, such as jammy cabernet sauvignons or buttery chardonnays.

But anyone who’s willing to keep an open mind might see the magic of natural wines as Lingua does.

“The way we approach this and the way we offer it to people is so they can explore,” he says. “I’m into exploration over expectation.”

Sauvage Wine Bar & Shop

149 W. McDowell Road
602-695-6265
Noon-10 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday; noon-midnight Friday and Saturday.
Wines by the glass $11-$21, Bottles $34-$212, Snacks $6-$25; Small Plates $14-$18
sauvagephx.com