La Vida

This party-supply store is located on the same block as some of our other south-of-the-border staples — across the street from Realeza Michoacana, a bakery and paleta (Mexican popsicle) shop; and Tortas El Güero, a torta shop; and next door to Llantera del Norte. But Dulcería Pico Rico can easily stand alone. It's pretty much a one-stop shop if you're throwing a kid's birthday party (they'll even rent you a jumping castle), but the real reason to go here is the candy. The sweet, tummy-ache-inducing candy. The back of the store is almost entirely devoted to it. Mexican candy has a certain something that makes us want to buy enough to fill several piñatas (also available in abundance here). We think it's probably the packaging — so bright and full of the promise of fun. This place makes it hard to narrow our selection down to a few packages. The candy is divided up into savory (churarzo, in tamarind flavor — a buck and some change will get you 20 pieces), sour, hot (and they carry about a million varieties of the Mexican staple pico), and sweet. We're partial to the sweet. De La Rosa's peanut confections melt in our mouths and remind us of childhood trips across the border, back before you needed a thousand kinds of security clearance to come home.

There are lots of reasons to stop by this colorful Mexican sweet shop, from ice cream to fruit cocktails, paletas to pastries (the fruit-filled smiley-face cookies never fail to cheer us up). Even the atmosphere's a hoot, with bright murals of fruit and an eye-popping pink-and-yellow-checkered floor. But usually we just swing by for a refreshing raspado, Mexico's answer to the slushie. Practically overflowing from a tall Styrofoam cup, these babies are chock-full of shaved ice, fruit chunks, and flavored syrups. Order a Diablito, and you'll get a spicy-sweet drink jazzed up with chile powder and saladitos (salted plums) and a chewy candy swizzle stick made with chile and tamarind. Or get one straight up, in one of half a dozen flavors: mango, tamarind, plum, vanilla, strawberry, pineapple, or rompope, a milky-sweet flavor reminiscent of eggnog. In a city where the summer lasts half the year, a regular raspado pit stop makes it much easier to handle the heat.

Leave it to longtime downtown arts advocates/developers Beatrice Moore and Tony Zahn to turn a crusty old pie factory into a showcase for genetically modified art. In early April, their latest historic restoration, Bragg's Pie Factory, was filled with description-defying, literally pie-in-the-sky piñatas dangling from the rafters of what was once a state-of-the-art pie-production plant built in 1947 in classic Machine Age "streamline Moderne" style.

Rest assured that the Pie Factory's piñatas are about as far as you can get from those traditional rainbow-decorated donkeys or ones patently inspired by Spider-Man, Hello Kitty and Tickle Me Elmo. Look for next year's call for entries, which is open to all ages and artistic bents. (The "bear" we scored was made by a teenager with autism.) Our other favorites from last year's bizarre-but-beautiful mixed-media offerings include a ginormous spiked blowfish made of scalloped felt and a maniacally grinning and drooling crocodile creature. At least we think it was a crocodile — it's hard to tell with the genetically modified.

Past the handmade wooden sign marking the entrada, you'll find an outdoor market lined with booths of colorful Mexican pottery, religious statuary, clothing, and Spanish-language cassette tapes. Locals dance to Mexican pop music, sipping cerveza and chowing down on roasted corn with goat cheese. Sounds like a wonderful vacation find, but this isn't Guadalajara — it's SoPo. El Gran Mercado at 35th and Buckeye is the closest thing to a Mexican carnival you'll find north of the border. Think of it as the granddaddy of weekend swap meets. We're talking 300-plus vendors including used car dealers, grocers, and an outdoor barber. You'll have to speak español — at least un poco — to haggle with the merchants; but if you're willing to pay sticker price, you'll do fine without.

So, perhaps the closest to Mexico many members of Friends of Mexican Art (FOMA) have been is Nogales. That doesn't stop this dedicated group of Mexican art-philes, founded more than 45 years ago in Phoenix, from generously donating their time, effort, and funds to promote all aspects of Mexican culture throughout Arizona.

FOMA is the forward-looking organization that had the vision years ago to give the Phoenix Art Museum, among other important artworks, its now-famous Rufino Tamayo painting Dos figuras en rojo (Two Figures in Red) (1973), as well as significant contemporary Mexican fine and folk art to other Arizona cultural institutions, including ASU Art Museum and Tucson Museum of Art. It has sponsored numerous exhibitions of Mexican art and brought working folk artisans stateside. FOMA raised funds for the moving and restoration of Diego Rivera's famous Del Prado Hotel mural painting after Mexico City's 1985 earthquake. It's also contributed to the restoration of frescos in the church of Atotonilco, the very spot where Father Hidalgo first raised the banner of Guadalupe to kick off the movement for Mexican independence from Spain. Known as the Sistine Chapel of the Americas, this church made the World Monuments Fund's list of the 100 most endangered world monuments.

Recently, FOMA ponied up bucks to help underwrite a historically critical issue on Mexican tourist pottery by Mexico's most prestigious arts publication, Artes de Mexico. The group's primary source of fundraising is its annual springtime Hacienda Home Tour and Mercado, which showcases elegant homes with mostly Mexican art collections and sells folk art that's cherry-picked for its quality. For gringos, this group's got it going on when it comes to putting its money where its heart is.

Trinidad Escalante crossed the border into Arizona about a century and a half back. While we could all sit around and argue about whether or not she did it legally, one fact can't be debated. Trinidad is yo' mama, Phoenix. In 1864, she married a man named Jack, and the two rounded up a bunch of their day-labor Mexican friends to work on a fancy canal system roughly 90 miles north of Tucson. That irrigation system became the foundation for a thriving southwestern community that we all know and love. For their act of desert insanity, we've christened Trinidad Escalante Swilling and Jack Swilling (indeed, the city's first mayor) the mother and father of Phoenix.

Trinidad is just one of the brown babes you'll meet at the Phoenix Museum of History's latest exhibit that showcases the stories of local Latinos from the Wild West days of the 1860s through the politically charged 1960s. It turns out that when Phoenix was founded in 1870, the population was over 50 percent Hispanic. Take a closer look at your Latin roots by peering into "The Mexican American Mirror" exhibit through October 2009.

For years, she's slaved with the hot glue gun, hoping to make it big. And she has — syndicated newspaper column, books, public appearances, sales of original folk art, workshops, even a show this fall at the Heard Museum.

But all that pales next to the shiny stuff. This year, Kathy Cano-Murillo hit the crafter's jackpot with her own product line, on sale at Michael's. Holy Chihuahua! In fact, you can have one of those, in the form of a Crafty Chica iron-on, as well as other iron-ons, paints, and even DIY shrine kits. But our favorite CC creation has got to be Cano-Murillo's staple ingredient — glitter, which comes in 10 custom colors including Frida's Fuchsia, Rockabilly Ruby, and Popstar Purple.

Star, indeed! The Valley's own Crafty Chica is making the world sparkle, one craft project at a time.

It was an agonizingly tough decision, given the competition, but we finally decided we're partial to a true Mexican folk art mural gracing the west side of MJ Mini Mart, a combo carnicería/casa de cámbio/restaurant in Sunnyslope. A visual paean to the platonic ideal of cows, pigs, and Mexican cerveza, the exuberant painting features two bigger-than-life-size horned cows — one of them looks as though it just had a root canal — that sort of levitate against green mountain vistas. Add a floating Tecate bottle, a flowering maguey, a bright yellow rope that spells out "carniceriá," and a decapitated pig's head staring ominously into the distance, and you get folk art at its finest — with the profound subtext that there are greener pastures waiting for us all.

Arizona is now embracing its Mexican roots big-time, especially around the time of Día de los Muertos, an ancient Mexican tradition that marries pre-Columbian social ritual to 16th-century Spanish Catholicism. The raucous result is a less-than-somber celebration devoted to honoring the dearly departed by annual graveyard cleaning and partying all night next to one's buried kin.

Probably the best part of this four-day holiday is the elaborately decorated ofrendas, or home offering tables, decked out with family photos, flowers, sugar skulls and candles. They're created to present tidbits of the departed's favorite food, drink, and even smokes, to lure lost souls back to Earth for the evening.

Last year, the Calaca Cultural Center collaborated with the Arizona Historical Society Museum on its fourth annual Día de los Muertos Altar and Art Exhibition, which showcases altars built by artists and community members (check Calaca's Web site for details about this year's "Call for Altars"). The museum displayed the ofrendas and invited the public to add to a large, four-sided altar. If you're into spectacle and religious rites, or are just enamored of all things Mexican, don't miss this sensory-overloading celebration at AHS Museum, which also includes an opening complete with food, entertainment, and purveyors of Mexican folk art.

Give the dead their due and buy cool stuff, too, at the Día de los Muertos Celebration held at Mesa Arts Center in downtown Mesa. This annual Day of the Dead extravaganza, usually mounted as close to November 1 and 2 as possible (the dates conveniently coincide with All Souls' and All Saints' days on the Catholic liturgical calendar), boasts a two-day Mexican folk art mercado, a community-built altar (called an ofrenda) and altar contest, family-oriented artist workshops and a special procession with guest appearances by crazed skeletons decked out like José Guadalupe Posada characters.

Free to the public, this fiesta's the perfect place to score fabulous folk art from all parts of Mexico, with an emphasis on all things bony and skeletal. Selected sellers from various parts of town converge to offer convenient, one-stop shopping for choice Mexican handicrafts, including ceramics, papier-mâché and carved wood from Jalisco, Michoacán, Guerrero, Oaxaca, and other Mexican folk-art-producing areas, not to mention Mexican-inspired items made right here in Arizona. And don't forget to check out the Day of the Dead items stocked by The Store at Mesa Arts Center when you're not shopping and stuffing your face with homemade tacos. Check the center's Web site for exact days and event times for this year's festivities.

Kids never seem to have an issue with things from which adults often recoil in horror. Like death, for example. So don't hesitate to take your offspring to Chandler's annual Día de los Muertos/Day of the Dead Celebration and Festival, a free, kid-friendly fiesta put on by Xico Inc. (formerly Xicanindio del Artes of Mesa), Vision Gallery and the Calaca Center (boy, do they get around) in Chandler Park.

Besides the predictable altars and a late-afternoon processional that ends in a blessing of the altars on display, this festival boasts Mexican music and dancing; last year, we saw house-rockin' performances by well-known mask maker Zarco Guerrero, traditional Mexican folk dances, mariachi numbers and the muy caliente band Barrio Latino. And, por supuesto, there are plentiful folk-art shopping opportunities and fabulous fiesta foods at bargain prices.

But the real enticement for kids is the festival's Vision Kidz areas, where they can make their own sugar skulls, calacas (skeletons) and papel picado (colorful tissue paper cutouts, a staple of any Mexican fiesta). We hope and pray they'll repeat last year's riveting puppet epic "Funny Bunny's Day of the Dead Holiday Adventure," staged by Great Arizona Puppet Theater. Even the vendors here are kid-oriented, offering colorful handmade Mexican toys (some obviously made in China) and candies for under a buck.

It's hard not to get excited about going to Tradiciones, because visiting this central Phoenix eatery is almost as good as taking a mini-vacation to Mexico. From street tacos and mini-chimis to lomo azteca (pork tenderloin in chipotle cream sauce), chicken in mole sauce, and plump camarones a la diabla (shrimp in fiery chipotle-red chile sauce), the dishes are as delicious as they are beautifully presented. The bar makes some knockout margaritas, too. And beyond the culinary offerings, there's plenty of eye candy to feast on. Out in the courtyard, there's a water fountain, vendors selling pottery and other Mexican imports, and a huge outdoor grilling area, which fills the air with mouthwatering smells of sizzling carne asada and grilled vegetables. Inside, rustic hacienda-style décor creates a festive atmosphere, while waitresses dress the part in colorful skirts and ruffled tops. And if you go during peak hours, you might even catch a live performance by mariachis in traditional garb. It's a fun, family-friendly experience that will put a smile on your face — and you don't need a passport to get there.

Okay, so it may not be Mexico City's posh, post-industrial minimalist dining mecca, Aguila y Sol, nor its Centro Historico's charming, pre-Columbian-inspired eatery, Los Girasoles. But Plaza Grill in north Phoenix is the place you want to head for if you're craving real Mexican food that tastes like, well, real food from Mexico, served with an elegant flourish on white tablecloths tastefully decorated with little vases of fresh flowers.

No Velveeta cheese crisps here. And don't be put off by the fact that Plaza Grill is in a rundown strip mall across from a screaming yellow pawn shop that orders people whizzing by to "Park and Pawn." Despite its low profile, this place features well-executed regional Mexican staples, like Yucatecan cochinita pibil, fork-tender pork slowly cooked in a citrus/garlic/achiote broth, and sea bass prepared al estilo de Veracruz, with fresh tomatoes, lots of garlic, peppers, onions and olives. Here, chicken mole poblano, a specialty of Puebla, is classically redolent of chilis and chocolate, as it should be, while the camarones al mojo de ajo, jumbo Guaymas shrimp backstroking in a divine garlic sauce, takes us back to dining on the beach in Baja. We also adore the freshly made guacamole, probably the best we've ever had, which is tangy with key limes, as well as Gil, Plaza Grill's omnipresent maitre d'/solicitous server extraordinario, who will never forget you once you've been here.

Ask to be put on Chef Luis Mata's list for his monthly multi-course prix fixe dinner, expertly paired with appropriate wine selections for each course.

One month Mata mixed it up, going solely Spanish, then followed that the next month with Mediterranean (including a Portuguese bacalao appetizer and an unforgettable Italian risotto) — we're still licking our chops and waiting for the next installment.

Visiting Rosita's Place is like visiting an old friend — a friend who loves nothing more than to make us fat and happy. Just setting foot in this place is enough to make us smile, thanks to a citrus-bright color scheme, paintings and framed photos with an Old Mexico feel, and the soothing sounds of water cascading into a tiny fishpond near the front counter. Of course, we're not truly content until we can dig into a big plate of homestyle Mexican food.

Usually, the only thing that separates us from our feast is our own indecision, as the menu's full of too many temptations. Juicy machaca? Moist chicken with mole sauce? Or how about an enchilada smothered with green chile and melted cheese? We go with something different every time (except for the flan, a must on every occasion). Luckily, thanks to splendidly cheap prices, we visit Rosita's Place pretty often. That's what friends are for, right?

If you walk into Poncho's and think the place feels homegrown, well, you're on to something. Turns out this South Phoenix favorite was raised from a takeout business to a full-fledged restaurant back in the mid-'70s, when the Vasquez family converted their house into a dining room to accommodate a growing crowd of regulars. True to its history, Poncho's menu's full of homestyle recipes, and the wallet-friendly prices are a refreshing blast from the past, too. Many items come wrapped in a tortilla, from enchiladas and crisp chimichangas to burros like the El Crudo, stuffed with juicy machaca and tomatillo sauce. Other specialties include the Tamale Especial — a green corn tamale slathered in green sauce and jalapeño cream cheese — and the gooey, golden fried chile relleno. No matter what you choose, expect generous portions fit for a family feast. And if that Diet Coke just doesn't quite quench your thirst, be sure to check out the cozy cantina in the back. When you see the bar with a string of tiny beer bottle lights overhead, you'll know you've found the right place.

La Perla Café doesn't present itself as anything other than a homey neighborhood place to splurge on tasty Chihuahua-style Mexican cooking, but the truth is, it's a full-fledged Glendale landmark. The Pompa family got this place started way back in 1946, which, in the land of sprawl, makes La Perla older than most parts of the Valley. It's no wonder the eatery's stayed in business all these years, though. Handmade tortillas are a highlight of many dishes here, including tacos, enchiladas, and burros. Eight different kinds of quesadillas are noteworthy, too — go for the Supreme, with machaca, green chiles, sour cream, and guacamole. La Perla prides itself on its cocktails as well, although we can never seem to branch out beyond the La Perla margarita with strawberries. Give us a pitcher of that, and we can handle the spiciest salsa they'll feed us.

Never mind the sprawl. If there's one thing we truly envy about East Mesa, it's Rancho de Tia Rosa. Even if you don't happen to live in this 'hood, Rancho de Tia Rosa is worth a visit, for both its charming atmosphere and its outstanding cuisine. The sprawling, 8,000-square-foot pink hacienda features water fountains, lush landscaping, front and rear patios decked out with wrought-iron chairs and tile-topped tables, and Saltillo tile floors throughout. Inside the cavernous main dining room, where there's a wall of funky brickwork and paintings of parrots and pretty señoritas, rustic tables and booths can accommodate large groups. The food's just as whimsical as the vibe, with playful gourmet spins on traditional dishes such as the Nuevo Chile Relleno, a plump roasted poblano filled with moist pork picadillo, with sour cream, cheese, and pine nuts on top. The grilled pork chop is accented with adobo chile rub and red chile chutney, while the decadent chicken mole makes use of six kinds of chile peppers, 22 spices, fruits, nuts, herbs, and — of course — chocolate. Dare we say, if this place were located closer to central Phoenix, it would attract as much attention as Barrio Café's gotten over the years.

In its three-plus decades of existence, Restaurant Mexico has certainly had its share of changes (ever-expanding development has forced it to pack up and move three times), but one thing's remained the same: its mouthwatering food. And in an area overflowing with Sonoran eateries, its menu full of Mexico City-style dishes definitely sets it apart from the pack. How about some fresh sopes topped with chorizo, or perhaps one of the unusual quesadillas, a deep-fried delicacy made with masa and flavorful beef picadillo? Other options include tacos, tostadas, and enchiladas slathered in tomatillo sauce. You can hardly go wrong, which is evident even in Restaurant Mexico's tasty take on standards like refried beans. Say all you want about "Mall Avenue" — this little-indie-restaurant-that-could, now planted squarely in the midst of Tempe's bustling main drag, is a true original.

Sometimes it seems like Scottsdale is home to more sushi joints than good old-fashioned Mexican restaurants, but if you know where to look, there is definitely South of the Border grub to be found. In the case of La Fonda del Sol, it's at the north end of a quirky retail complex on the southeast corner of Scottsdale and Shea, home to a diverse collection of restaurants that encircle an expansive parking lot. Although some of its neighbors might be upscale dinner destinations, La Fonda del Sol is unquestionably casual, more charming for its friendly service than for its atmosphere. But hey, we're not here to gawk at the décor, anyway. What gets us in the door is cheap, satisfying fare like green corn tamales, luscious carnitas tacos, machaca-stuffed chimichangas, and killer combination plates. Come lunchtime, it's even easier on the wallet, with a belly-busting all-you-can-eat buffet for under seven bucks. Nope, you can't find a deal like that at any sushi place, period.

Too many restaurants treat Mexican dishes like diner food — they crank them out quickly and cheaply, and if the stuff happens to be tasty, well, you're lucky. In the hands of a talented chef, though, Mexico's culinary traditions can be downright sophisticated, not to mention surprising. At Barrio Café, guacamole, prepared tableside, is anything but run of the mill, while even the humble chile relleno is transformed by a filling of shrimp and scallops. Chef-owner Silvana Salcido Esparza's a well-traveled lady, and it shows, from Mexico City-style chicken enchiladas topped with tomatillo cream sauce to slow-roasted, fork-tender cochinita pibil (pork with achiote rojo and sour orange), a Yucatecan specialty. Even the desserts are unusual, including goat's milk-caramel-topped crepes, caramel-filled churros, and Oaxacan chocolate cake. With so many luscious flavor combinations and mouthwatering presentations, Barrio Café will give you a whole new perspective on Mexican cuisine.

Mexican restaurants already blanket the Valley, but what about culinary offerings from much farther south of the border, as in South America? For those, you might have to search a little harder, but the effort's worth it. Our favorite stop is Mi Cocina Mi País, a strip mall gem that serves up homestyle dishes from Ecuador, Peru, and Colombia in a happy orange dining room draped with colorful woven tapestries. Here, shrimp ceviche gets a tasty twist, thanks to pickled red onion and a handful of popcorn, while juicy pork tamales come wrapped in glossy, dark green banana leaves. Sample fluffy arepa (corn cakes) or sobrebarriga Bogotana (Colombian slow-cooked beef), and then quench your thirst with a cold glass of sugary chicha morada (a purple punch made from corn, of all things) or pineapple-sweetened avena helada. Desserts like flan, plantain cake, and torta de camote, made with sweet potatoes and raisins, are authentic as well — and too tasty to pass up.

Different moods call for different kinds of breakfast. Some days, it's a greasy, gut-busting American-style spread with pancakes and bacon and eggs. Other times, we prefer something lighter — and kind of French — like an omelet or some crepes. And then there are times when nothing but savory, spicy Mexican dishes will do. When that last craving kicks in, Richardson's always delivers, with some of the heartiest a.m. eats in town. (Although they serve it 'til 4 p.m. on weekends, so don't worry about sleeping in and missing out.) We're fond of the perfect huevos rancheros, smothered in Richardson's legendary New Mexican-style chile, as well as the outstanding breakfast burrito. And carne adovada, a heaping platter of smoked pork simmered in red chile, is the perfect splurge to start the day. Honestly, we can't think of a time when we're not in the mood for that.

What a charmer. We already thought El Zocalo was a neat restaurant with the perfect name (a Mexican zócalo is the town square, and this eatery is situated right on Chandler's own town square, San Marcos Place). But once we discovered the lush outdoor patio tucked out back — something we'd missed when we ate there during the hottest time of year — we were totally enamored. With tables decked out in white linens, red brick pavers, flowering shrubs, and leafy potted plants all around, it's romantic and relaxing, the kind of place that makes us glad to live where the season for patio dining is almost the entire year. And at night, it's lit up with tiny white lights that cast a flattering glow on anybody who's dining out there. If there's any way to look good while greedily snarfing down El Zocalo's insanely tasty mole de pollo, it's in a setting as pretty as this.

Talk about a testament to a restaurant's success: Earlier this year, Rito's streamlined its already compact menu — farewell, tacos and tostadas — and it hardly seems to have put a dent in business. Nope, most days there's still a line here at lunchtime, even though this no-frills eatery keeps a really low profile (so low that there's not even a sign on the front door). Of course, it's worth the wait for excellent burros and chimichangas, served up plain or enchilada-style. Go for the red chili burro, with tender shreds of beef smothered in smooth, lip-smackingly spicy sauce; the green chili burro (Rito's claim to fame), filled with moist chunks of pork; or the great beans and rice. It's all homey, flavorful, and easy on the wallet. And be sure to stake out a spot at one of the picnic tables outside, where you can join other happy customers chowing down on one of the best lunch deals in town. After one whiff of the good stuff cooking back in the kitchen, we promise you'll be too hungry to take your takeout back home.

Tucked away on a quiet street southeast of downtown Phoenix, the original Carolina's would appear to be off the beaten path. But step through the front door and you'll be surprised at how bustling this place is; there's usually a line at most times of the day. (To be fair, the packed parking lot sort of gives it away.) Indeed, folks come here from well beyond the barrio to get their Mexican food fix, and not just because it's affordable. It's the killer tortillas that keep them coming back — tortillas that truly have no match in this vast Valley of Mexican restaurants. Why's that? Well, the easiest way to find out is just to taste them. They're remarkably thin and light, with just enough stretchiness to contain a burro's worth of fillings, and a moist, soft texture that makes them equally good unadorned. The fact that Carolina's tortillas are so popular is somewhat of a self-perpetuating success, since the high demand means the folks behind the counter are constantly making fresh ones. And once you get a bite of a hot one off the griddle, we're sure you'll be a fan.

We don't use the word "dreamy" too often, but that's the first description that comes to mind when we think of the mole poblano at Los Sombreros. The first bite makes us feel like we're floating on a cloud, and the last bite gives us a twinge of melancholy, as if we're a little heartbroken to see our meal come to an end. Here, the chocolate-tinged sauce is velvety smooth, with a masterful touch of spice, and it's served over a filling portion of moist, shredded chicken. We're also fond of the mole verde, served with juicy simmered pork. Whereas the mole poblano is seductive, this mole is sassy as all get out, made with pumpkin seeds and tomatillo. Either way, it's mole so good we almost catch ourselves shouting, "Olé!" — although admittedly that's after a couple margaritas.

We have no illusions. Mariscos Sinaloa's blue vinyl booths and colorful, whimsical mural of sea creatures are not enough to fool us into thinking we're anywhere near the ocean. The seafood dishes, however, are beyond convincing. Not only do they look freshly caught — whole cooked snapper seems as though it was just plucked from the deep, and you half expect the pair of shrimp garnishing the seafood cocktail to wriggle their shiny tails — they taste that way, too. Camarones aguachile (raw shrimp bathed in chile-spiked lime juice) are tender and sweet, while the filete especial del chef (tilapia slathered in cream sauce with bacon, banana pepper, and shrimp) is moist and perfectly cooked. Sure, a trip to the shore would be nice, but in the meantime, eating at Mariscos Sinaloa is a beach vacation for our taste buds.

Ever since we discovered the joys of eating at Tortas El Güero, we can hardly bring ourselves to eat at fast-food joints anymore. What, you've never had a torta? Friend, let us introduce you to the glory of the Mexican sandwich: It's a ginormous, filling thing, stuffed with meat, lettuce, tomatoes, pickled jalapeños, mayo, and thick slices of avocado, served on a soft, lightly toasted telera roll. Really, it's enough food for two people, but it's so tasty that we usually end up snarfing down the whole torta ourselves. There are 20-some choices on the menu here, so we could practically eat a different one every day for weeks on end, although we do have a few favorites. The oversized Cubana is a carnivore's dream, layered with ham, cheese, breaded beef, and sliced pork, and the Pastor is a total eye-opener, with tender chunks of pork in a fiery red chile sauce. And the Hawaiiana, jazzed up with queso fresco and pineapple, is a refreshing take on a ham sandwich. With an ice-cold Mexican Coke or a big cup of horchata, these tortas make for a cheap and tasty feast that beats a Big Mac any day. 

It's probably a cliché, but it's true: Some of the best tacos we've ever had were at a ramshackle roadside stand in Mexico, cooked right up in front of us and served with halved limes the size of large gumdrops. We thought we'd have to swing a return trip to eat tacos that good again, but thankfully, we've found a delicious substitute — and amazingly, it's in central Phoenix. Like so many local finds, El Nopalito resides in an inconspicuous strip mall and is easy to zoom past unless you're seeking it out. In other words, don't expect to stumble on this place. But hey, if you're craving tacos the way we were, you'll head straight to it. No bigger than two or three bites, El Nopalito's tiny tacos are easy to love, served on fresh corn tortillas and topped with diced onion and fresh cilantro. They even serve them with those miniature limes. You'll want to try them all, from al pastor (spicy pork) to carne asada. And considering that they're only 99 cents apiece, trying them all really isn't out of the question.

Do you ever find yourself ordering one particular thing whenever you see it on a menu? We're that way with machaca. And ever since we discovered the outrageously good machaca at Los Dos Molinos — where there's a whole menu full of memorable dishes — we've had to keep returning just to satisfy our cravings. Here, the classic shredded beef dish is impressively tender, with a rich, meaty flavor that stands up to Los Dos' signature spices. This is kicky stuff, for sure, but it's heat we can handle. Better yet, there are three different machaca dishes. You can get it wrapped in a burro slathered in enchilada sauce, tucked into a crisp, golden chimichanga, or spooned onto the machaca pizza, a huge, crispy tortilla topped with tomatoes, red chili, and gooey melted cheese. That last one is our favorite, an entrée-sized appetizer that we'd be happy to devour alone. Sorry, but if you want to eat machaca this good, you're on your own.

At this family-owned buffet — brimming with home-style Cuban dishes like arroz con pollo, ropa vieja (shredded beef), fricasé de puerco (super-tender pork), and apporeado de pescado (shredded fish with vegetables) — it seems kind of indulgent to order an extra dessert, especially since there are puddings, fresh fruits, and pastries included in the all-you-can-eat spread. But seriously, who can say no to flan this good? Not us, now that we crave this creamy dessert all the time. Sabor Cubano has spoiled us with its superb rendition of a classic. Some places serve flan that's as light and wiggly as a blob of Jell-O (to be fair, we like that stuff too), while this flan is denser and silkier, with a deep golden glaze of delicious caramel sauce. It's sweet, but not cloyingly so, which makes it that much easier to scarf down a whole serving by ourselves. You could argue that this portion is really meant for two, but we prefer to think of it, simply, as more to love.

We have plenty of guilty pleasures, but one thing that makes us feel no guilt whatsoever is an ice-cold paleta on a toasty Arizona afternoon. Sure, you could call them Mexican popsicles, but paletas are truly a class unto themselves, so much more fun than their American counterparts. Flor de Michoacan carries around two dozen flavors, including tamarind, pistachio, and coconut, along with classics like strawberry cream, lemon, and pecan. We're always tempted to order one of each, except that they'd all melt by the time we got home. Better to just grab a seat here and indulge, one by one. Besides, the vibe's just so charming, with giant fruit painted on the windows and walls done up in hot pink and blue stripes. It makes us feel like a kid all over again, which has us wondering — is the fountain of youth perhaps frozen into a pop?

Los Reyes de la Torta (translated, the Sandwich Kings) of Sunnyslope reign supreme in the realm of aguas frescas, those luscious-looking fresh-fruit drinks sold on just about every corner throughout Mexico. They're sort of the Aztec answer to the Sonic Sunrise, but without the diabetes-inducing corn syrup and artificial flavoring. For a mere $3.25 at Los Reyes, you can revel in an obscenely large goblet filled with the natural fruit water of your choice. The flavor list seems endless — pineapple, strawberry, cantaloupe, watermelon, mango, lime, orange, papaya, apple, celery, or more exotic horchata (a cinnamon-y rice drink) and oatmeal (we've yet to try the oatmeal, which sounds intriguing). Let your creative juices flow and create your own combo for just 50 cents more. And plan on sharing one of these puppies; they're so big that you'll have a hard time finishing one by yourself.

Truth be told, we'd like to give Phoenix Ranch Market a whole handful of Best Ofs. What's not to love about this cheerful, sprawling emporium of Mexican food? The in-house panadería greets you right inside the front door, with everything from fruit-filled empanadas to Hello Kitty tres leches birthday cakes. The aguas frescas counter hawks a nice variety of ice-cold drinks, including horchata, jamaica, and pineapple punch, and just beyond that is a bustling food court offering hot à la carte items. Phoenix Ranch Market's busy tortillería is mesmerizing — and mouthwatering — to see, while the pescadería and carnicería feature jaw-dropping displays of glistening seafood and freshly butchered meats. (Note to the squeamish: Brace yourself for the inevitable cow's skull peering out from a refrigerated case, somewhere near the steaks and sausages.) And that's not all — there's an ice cream stand and a coffee counter, too. Somewhere in the middle of all this you'll find regular aisles of Mexican and American staples, a reminder that this is still some folks' neighborhood grocery store. For the rest of us, though, it's one of the Valley's most exciting food destinations.

Whether we're craving a simple sweet treat or need to order up a festive special-occasion cake, La Tolteca's our go-to spot. It's a given that we stock up on fresh corn and flour tortillas, of course, but there's so much more to tempt us — it's just impossible to walk past the row of illuminated display cases filled with huge Mexican cookies, pan dulce, empanadas, flan, and churros. Something always stops us in our tracks, despite our best attempts to head to the adjacent counter for a burrito. Tres leches cake, in particular, is one of our biggest weaknesses. Soaked with sweetened milk and layered with gooey fruit filling, it's sponge cake with an irresistibly rich, creamy texture. They sell it by the slice, but what the heck — we like the sheet cake version. When we show up at a party bearing one of those tasty treasures, people treat us like rock stars.

Ahhh . . . Walking into Mini Mercado Oaxaca recently transported us back to the beautiful southern Mexican state of Oaxaca (before Andrés Manuel López Obrador declared himself the real president of Mexico and forced his pretender to the presidency, Felipe Calderón, to send in armed federal troops to save the city from chaos). To your left, just as you stroll into the small market/restaurant, you can't miss a florid home altar, an authentic staple of most homes and small stores in Mexico.

Amid burning candles, bouquets of real flowers, and charming everlasting flower arrangements that are the specialty of the tiny Oaxacan town of San Antonino Castillo Velasco, stands a large, spray-painted, plaster-of-Paris Jesus, happily dangling an equally large golden fish. Surrounding him are statues of almost every Catholic saint in the book, including San Martín de Porres, Santo Niño de Atocha and, of course, several effigies of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, Oaxaca's patron saint, not to mention an entire grotto con water fountain dedicated to Our Lady of Guadalupe. Gilding the already very shiny lily, for extra spiritual protection, the altar maker has also thrown in a statue and several pictures of His Holiness John Paul II, who beatifically blesses you as you cruise the merchandise.

Need a cheap used fender, hubcap or new windshield? No problem, vato.

Broadway Road in South Phoenix has got you covered. This theatrical stretch from about 12th Street all the way west to 35th Avenue has got to be one of our town's best-kept secrets. Just ask Robert de la Torre of Precision Auto. His family's auto store has been around since 1954. The family's shop offers even the most hard-to-find car parts. But if the de la Torres don't have it, just keep driving west to where Broadway turns into a single lane. You'll see people fixing cars on the side of the road where they've probably just picked up a bargain from places like the popular Pick-A-Part wrecking yard (31st Avenue and Broadway). Many of these places sell bargain auto parts at a fraction of the price you might find at any of the chain stores. The best part is celebrating your new metallic treasures with a snack from "Maria's Tacos & Stuff #2" across the street. Fixing your car has never been so tasty, fun, and inexpensive.

You'd think it would be easy to find piñatas in Phoenix. It is. But something special? Sure, chains like Food City and Party City carry a token selection of papier-mâché Disney characters and traditional piñatas, but they're all the same. Time and again shop owners told us that no one local does custom piñatas. Finally, a tip brought us to Arizona Piñatas, a little mom-and-pop shop based in Scottsdale. The downside is that there's no physical storefront, so you'll have to browse online and get your order shipped. Stock designs include sports-themed piñatas, animals, flowers, and the traditional round ball studded with large cones. They also carry pull-string models for toddlers who can't quite handle a bat. For a little extra cash, you can order candy and supplies or request a Disney princess, pink flamingo, or flying pig piñata. So why are these guys really the best? If you want a likeness of your boss to beat the crap out of, Arizona Piñatas will make it.

Don't be fooled by the bland white exterior of the Mexican Arts-Imports building at Van Buren and 24th Street. Inside, ceiling-high shelves are crammed full of Mexican imports from maracas to painted wall tiles and rustic wooden benches. And not just the kitschy souvenir stuff Midwestern gringos love to pick up at Phoenix's dime-a-dozen pottery shops — Mexican Arts has such a huge stock of ceramics (we're talking several rooms and an outdoor patio drowning in pottery) that even other local import store owners shop here. Like a real Mexican mercado, the prices aren't set in stone. On a recent visit, we scored a cool hand-painted mask marked at $20 for just five bucks. Need a marble Madonna? Check. Hand-tooled leather gun belt? Got it. Tequila? Well, maybe not, but they've got a killer tin agave-plant liquor set you can take home and serve it from.

We love Purple Lizard for so many reasons. This is a true neighborhood shop — we never go in without running into at least one person we know. We love Marguerite, the longtime owner, who remembers all our personal stories. Most of all, we love the merchandise. And while the bulk of the wares at P.L. include hard-to-find women's clothing lines like Flax, Krista Larson, and CP Shades, our favorite items are the ones with a little spice. There's an always-changing selection of Latin-themed art books, embroidered shirts and dresses, milagros, oilcloth (both by the yard and purses) and one-of-a-kind Day of the Dead art — from hand-carved "investment" pieces to sweet little dioramas that won't set you back much. Be careful: We find it's the accumulation of items that dents our bank account. But still, we can't wait to get over to Purple Lizard for more.

A girl's quinceañera is, perhaps, the most important ceremony of her life (outside of her wedding), and part of the allure and fun of the whole expensive shebang is the dress. Here in Phoenix, there are plenty of Latina-centered bridal shops that sell them. That makes I Do! I Do! appear out of place here because the shop focuses mostly on bridal gowns. But tucked away in a secondary showroom, this place has the best selection of quinceañera dresses we've seen. We've stalked these poofy, candy-colored dresses since we were 15, cursing our Irish parents, and wishing we were Hispanic so we could be the guest of honor at one of these fancy coming-out parties. Of the designers this store carries, our favorite is Mori Lee Vizcayas, whose full-scalloped lace skirts and vibrant color choices are the envy of Anglo girls everywhere. What really sets I Do! I Do! apart is the level of attentive and prompt service — something that is lacking at other shops around town. If you're going to drop that much money on a dress, your personal shopper better be zipping you into it. Appointments are a must here and bilingual services are available upon request.

There is so much more to a quinceañera ceremony than just the dress. Yeah, there's the religious aspect (kind of, we guess) and the serious, coming-of-age part, but you need so much more than a pretty dress and a rosary for the big day. There's the tossing doll (thrown away to symbolize a girl's turning into a woman — because 15-year-old girls are totally grown up), the keepsake doll, the tiara, the invitations. A lot of stuff. Azteca Bridal has a section of the accessories building in its bridal plaza devoted to quinceañeras. Its selection of keepsake dolls — miniature models of the birthday girl, right down to the same dress — is especially good and affordable, a plus because you probably spent thousands on the dress.

Too many designers in Phoenix get so distracted by sewing stuff onto other stuff that they forget the part where they're supposed to be making things that people will, you know, wear in public. Not so for Yesenia Puente and Miriam Navarro, the creative force behind Lola y Lola, a cheeky local line of clothing that we have possibly become a little obsessed with. Puente and Navarro became interested in design while studying in Paris in 2001 and their line (which debuted at a fashion show in 2004) combines the intrinsic grace of France with their Mexican heritage's whimsy and bright colors. The result is a line that's a true standout. We're particularly partial to their tank tops — especially "El Otono" and "El Monstruo" — and have a feeling these two could make a tidy little profit if the bigwigs at Urban Outfitters were to catch wind of what they're doing. Until they hit the big time, you can score their super-cute tanks, Ts, and dresses at stores such as Mint Vintage, Way Cool Hair, Conspire, and on etsy.com.

The coke-rap of T.I., Young Jeezy, and The Re-Up Gang is humdrum. Next stop: narcocorridos, where epic tales of Mexican drug-running are blended with corridos norteños (bouncy, accordion-accented ballads). El Idolo de Oro is your no-frills hookup, peddling myriad musical outlaws including Sinaloan legend Chalino Sanchez. In '92, Sanchez shot a would-be assassin during a concert and was later killed under mysterious circumstances. His prominence and early demise spawned countless imitators, most of whom you'll find here. The translation of the shop's name, The Golden Idol, should warn aspiring traficantes everywhere.

Barack Obama has used "Yes, We Can!" as his rallying cry and it's not an accident. Team Obama has sampled and remixed the "¡Sí se puede!" chant that César Chávez and Delores Huerta came up with for the United Farm Workers. Their presence still echoes today via La Campesina Radio Network, initially established by the UFW with the help of Senator Robert F. Kennedy. Chávez's youngest son, Anthony, acts as its current president. In addition to keeping farmworkers up to date, they keep things moving with quite the palette of regional Mexican music, even landing legendary Mexican performer Vicente Fernandez as a DJ.

What makes Latino Vibe so cool is that it reflects the diversity of the Latino culture to which it caters — playlists include everything from Argentinian cumbia group SuperMerka2, Dominican bachata/R&B fusion band Aventura, Colombian pop-rock star Juanes, and Mexican reggaeton group Sonidero Nacional to Top 40 artists like hip-hop/R&B sensation Chris Brown and Enrique Iglesias. The station also sponsors a variety of concerts (recent shows included Camila and RBD) and hosts two hot club nights in the Valley — Noches Tropicales with DJ Wicked at Club Mango on Fridays, and Noches de Antro Estilo Mexico at Club Rain with DJs Cesar Tercero and Mixxman.

We've been fans of this show since back in the days when it used to broadcast on AM radio station La Buena Onda. But we got really excited last year when the group of 20-something Hispanics managed to make the jump to the FM dial. Now broadcasting on 95.1 Latino Vibe, in Spanglish, the Breakers reach a greater audience. Which is muy, muy bueno. Their intelligent discussions about everything from immigration reform to teen pregnancy, and their funny insights on growing up Latino in Arizona are a much-needed breath of fresh air. And people are listening. When ASU almost pulled scholarship funding for undocumented students this past year, the Breakers were part of the push to reinstate it. And it worked. Look for big things to come from this dynamic bunch. And remember, you heard it here first.

DJ Melo's responsible for keeping the party going at one of the hottest (and, incidentally, gay) Latin nightclubs in Phoenix: Karamba. The dance floors here are often so crowded on weekends that there's no maneuvering through them, and much of that is due to Melo's mash-ups, influenced by such Latin DJ legends as Kassanova and Roberto Dominguez. Melo spins a similar mix of cumbias, bachatas, salsa, bossa nova, and reggaeton, infused with pulsing electro beats. He takes tons of requests, too, which is (sadly) rare among club DJs these days (unless you've got a couple bucks to throw their way). Though he focuses on spinning sizzling hot Latin rhythms, Melo's base can be broad — he's even been known to bust out some hip-hop beats for the b-boys.

DJ Big Latin bumps more beats in Valley clubs than any other DJ. Even if he's not spinning at one of his weekly gigs — Thursdays at La Perla Café in Glendale, Fridays at both Macayo's downtown and Club DWNTWN, Saturdays in The Latin Room at Coach & Willie's — his company, Big Latin Entertainment, is booking and promoting other Latin dance events around town, like an official birthday bash for Grammy-winning artist DJ Kane (of Kumbia Kings), and the Sixth Annual Untouchable Lows Car Show in Nogales. Big Latin's got an ear for upcoming talent and was the first promoter in the Valley to book national reggaeton stars like Pitbull and Daddy Yankee to perform here. And he still spins the meanest mix of reggaeton, cumbias, and Latin hip-hop.

Club Dwntwn continues to be a red-hot Latin nightspot, and not just because of its fiery scarlet-and-crimson color scheme or the faux-flame statues just outside its entrance. The downtown Phoenix danceteria's just hot, period, and it's where a sizable Hispanic crowd, sporting their finest duds (as the dress code is strictly enforced), goes out every weekend. There is an amply-sized dance floor where chicas and cabrones (as well as cool cats of other ethnic backgrounds) can bump their humps to hip-hop, old school, and reggaeton jams from DJs Phlava and Big Latin. Saturdays always seems extra-crowded, as the sounds of salsa, merengue, bachata and other Latin jams come from the sound system, courtesy of a turntablism trio of DJs Joey, Rubas, and Luis. Never before has being hot been so cool.

At this point, we don't know who's been around longer: AL3, Phoenix's Turntable Patriarch and international DJ all-star, or The Matador — the iconic downtown Mexican food joint that's been busting out burritos for almost three decades. All we know for sure is that magic happened when these two joined forces. Freakin' good clubbin' in a restaurant? Are we serious? We sure are. The tables are cleared, and the dance floors are filled by some of the most muy sabrosa clubbers around. Not sure yet? Don't just trust us, ask the nearly 1,000 people who line up outside along Adams on a Friday night waiting to get in and shake that thang to the best booty-rockin' reggaeton, old-school beats, hip-hop hits, and cumbia 'round back. Be advised — there's no room for chillin'; the dance floor's packed with caliente chicas aplenty who come here to dance.

Karamba Nightclub is the overachieving bar that could. While they rack up international accolades as one of the planet's best gay bars, they're still workin' on workin' it out on the dance floor for all their fans. Like the unmatched Vaquero Thursdays. This night brings the best beats from DJ Miguel, who we think is just about the best DJ in the 'Nix, spinning pop en español, cumbia, norteño, and banda. Wear your boots that are made for dancin' and join a merry mix of cowboys, clubbers, and cuties on the dance floor, while a world-class sound system blasts the bomb beats. Sure, if you need a break, there are $3 pitchers of beer. Who's paying attention to that while The Susana Show, hosted by the lovely reina Susana, delivers delicious impersonations of Gloria Trevi, Thalia, and our hero — Shakira? Her hips don't lie! Forget about staying en su casa; Thursday nights are all about Karamba's Vaquero Thursdays.

Carlos Santana appears to be supernaturally gifted at stuff other than playing guitar. Take his shoe line, for example — festive, affordable heels that are sexy rather than sleazy. The same adjectives apply to Maria Maria, his restaurant concept: festive, affordable, sexy-not-sleazy. Either the man's a wizard at creating ambiance, or he knows enough to pick the right partners. The result is that the new Maria Maria in Tempe Marketplace feels less like a chain and more like a trip. The food is pretty good — sort of South American/Mexican, a little pricey, a little fussy, but fresh and flavorful — but the real reason to drop by on a Saturday night is the scene. Perch on a bar stool, sip on a caipirinha or a mojito, and groove to the sounds of Habana Soul, one of the live bands the restaurant showcases on weekends. And watch yourself: Under the Santana spell, you just might find yourself on the tiny dance floor, alongside the Latin lovelies who really know what they're doing.

No quinceañera or boda (Mexican wedding) in sight to satisfy your thirst for the joyous blare of mariachis? There's always La Casa del Mariachi, where the excellent Mexican fare, the Crayola-bright interior, and the music makes it the place to be. On weekends, the adjacent dancehall hosts quite the fiesta with a full mariachi band, brass and all.

Heartbroken? The remedy is Oaxaca. Three grandfatherly gentlemen on guitar, vihuela, and guitarrón post up on Friday and Saturday nights in the cozy, zarape-wrapped lounge. Their soulful croonings of love — whether fulfilled, unrequited, or lost — always ring true, especially when you're wistfully nursing a beer.

We swear we're not trying to be trendy by saying we like South American wines. Scout's honor, we've long thought they were a great bang for the buck, and often stocked our depleted wine rack with South American labels when we couldn't afford the stuff from California. But ever since our pal came back from a trip to Buenos Aires — move over, Prague, it's the new bohemian jetset destination — we've heard way too much about how great the wines are in Argentina. So what a blessing that Bomberos Café & Wine Bar opened its doors in a funky renovated firehouse building in Sunnyslope, serving fantastic wines from Argentina, Chile, Brazil, and Uruguay. We're fans of the berry-rich Susana Balbo Malbec, but alas, that's one of the few choices not available by the glass. Which means we're usually looking for a friend or two to join us in the sleek, candlelit bar, or out on the inviting back patio. If you're not busy later on, you'll know where to find us.

On a recent bar crawl, we were surprised when we stumbled into the Taxi Inn, asked for the house specialty, and were told there was no hard liquor on the menu. No hard liquor? What's the point? Ah, but we had no further questions after consuming the mi/chelada. Let us elaborate.

We watched as the weathered bartender rimmed a beer mug with salt. The old guy then added beer, some Clamato, a couple of freshly squeezed limes, and topped the whole thing off with a couple of big squirts from a rusty-topped V8 can filled with N.Y.-style Frank's Hot Sauce. We've gotta say, the spicy, Bloody Mary-style beer concoction really hit the spot.