Restaurants

The 4 best things we ate and sipped in January

Satisfying soups and low-ABV cocktails stood out among the crowd this month.
Pozole bowl at Alebrijes Cafe & Grill.
The pozole at Alebrijes Cafe & Grill is loaded with spoon-tender pork, hominy kernels and fresh veggies.

Tirion Boan

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January was a little cold and damp by Phoenix standards, so hot soup really hit the spot and two of the best things we ate this month were full of flavorful, warming broth. January was also damp in the sense that those not wholly convinced by the concept of dry January coined a new, somewhat cringe-worthy term for drinking just a little bit. In keeping with the trend, one low-ABV cocktail really caught our attention. Here are the four best things the Phoenix New Times food team ate and sipped in January.

Pozole at Alebrijes Cafe & Grill

4900 N. Litchfield Road, Building B, Litchfield ParkAlebrijes Cafe & Grill is a gem tucked into a strip shopping center in Litchfield Park. Popular with the after-church crowd and brunch-goers in search of cocktails alike, the restaurant gets busy on weekend mornings. But the food is well worth the wait. If the pozole is on the specials menu, make sure to order it. The hearty portion arrives piping hot in a clay bowl accompanied by tortilla chips and limes. Squeeze a little juice into the deep red soup, stir in the cabbage, white onions and sliced radish and dig in. Some pozoles skimp on the meat and are bulked up with excess hominy kernels. But not here, Alebrijes’ pozole is filled with large chunks of spoon-tender pork that soak up the savory, spicy broth for a flavor-packed punch in every bite.

On a cold night, nothing beats a steaming hot bowl of Tom Yum from Wanwaan.

Tirion Boan

Tom Yum from Wanwaan

720 W. Highland Ave.How can something be savory and rich, but also sour at the same time? The chefs behind Thai pop-up and takeout kitchen Wanwaan have mastered this satisfying combination in their Tom Yum soup. A rich chile-scented broth is filled with oyster mushrooms, fresh tomato, lemongrass, makrut lime leaf and galangal, a root similar to ginger. Shrimp are optional, and we definitely recommend adding the plump, tail-on crustaceans to your dinner. WanWaan operates out of the Highland Food Hub, a communal kitchen space in the Melrose District. Place a takeout order online and opt for delivery, or pick up your order to take home.

The lamb at Hai Noon looks simple, but it’s a stunner that’s not to be missed.

Sara Crocker

Lamb at Hai Noon

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7017 E. McDowell Road, ScottsdaleWe could put just about anything we had during our visit to Nobuo Fukuda’s Hai Noon on this list, but of the several small plates we gobbled up with delight, the dish that is living rent-free in our minds is the lamb. The dish appears simply: two lightly seared chops with a mango and fennel salad. That first bite is disarming, not just for how tender and perfectly cooked the lamb is but also for the bold burst of flavor rendered from a coconut curry marinade. It gets even better with some of that refreshing salad piled on top. Our only regret afterward was not ordering a second plate.

Taking inspiration from a spicy margarita, Maple House’s Before You Go-Go offers a low-ABV sip made with vermouth and red wine.

Sara Crocker

Before You Go-Go at Maple House

198 W. Boston St., Chandler
Maple House, Chandler’s new coffeehouse and bar, makes the case for moderation with zero-proof and low-ABV cocktails. But, their bar team hasn’t moderated the flavors. Try the Before You Go-Go, a less-boozy drink that takes cues from a spicy devil’s margarita and includes an eye-catching wine float. In this sip, chile-infused vermouth takes the place of tequila as the primary spirit, and is shaken with agave and lime. The cocktail is finished with red wine and a Tajin rim. Though the spice hits on the first sip, the vermouth and wine offer hints of stone fruit, balanced against the tart sweetness of agave and lime. It’s a complex cocktail that feels decadent, without the hangover.

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