Best Of Phoenix® 2007 Winners
Food & Drink
New ownership and a fresh makeover have re-energized the former German Corner restaurant, which reopened as Black Forest Mill earlier this year. With a spacious bar area (where there's a sports bar vibe), cozy dining rooms with curtain-draped booths and dark wood paneling, and even a small dance floor (there's live accordion music on Friday and Saturday nights), it's a refreshingly unpretentious — and welcome — addition to the increasingly upscale Arcadia neighborhood. From wiener schnitzel (veal cutlets) to Rheinischer sauerbrauten (Rhineland-style wine-and-vinegar-marinated sirloin with raisin sauce), the menu is chock full of old-fashioned German favorites. Entrees are available at lunchtime, too, but there's plenty of lighter midday fare, including goulash soup and bratwurst sandwiches. Of course, happy hour's the best time to go, when the beer is flowing and the workday's behind you. Relax, order up a frothy German brew, and give a nod to the cute, costume-clad fräulein across the room. Who needs Oktoberfest? The simple things in life are worth celebrating at Black Forest Mill.
Don't get us wrong — we adore the savory dinner options at Sweet O Wine & Chocolate Lounge. From cheeses and dips, served with excellent grilled bread from Simply Bread, to fresh salads and creative panini, there's plenty on the menu that we're happy to fill up on. But why try to save room for dessert when that's the star attraction of this sleek little eatery? Better to start off with exactly what you came for — exotic chocolate pastries, chocolate fondue, chocolate hazelnut panini with crme fraîche and crispy hazelnuts, and petits fours galore. Once you get a glimpse of the chocolate treats in the display case, you won't be able to wait 'til after dinner to indulge. From macadamia toffee and milk chocolate caramel to fleur de sel truffles and butter ganache pralines, Sweet O can deliver your chocolate fix in just about any form you like. Even the eclectic wine selection is geared toward cacao consumption, with a generous selection of dessert wines and fortified wines. And if you'd rather let the experts guide your palate, pick one of the chocolate flights, where three different bonbons are paired with an appropriately decadent drink. Sweet O's proprietors say the "O" stands for "origine" (French for "origin," sort of the terroir of chocolate). But after flooding our brains with blissful endorphins and alcohol, all we feel is sweet oblivion.
We sure love hot chocolate, although in the warmer months (when we'll only drink iced lattes) we can hardly stand the thought of it — unless it's Cowboy Ciao's unforgettable take on the classic cold weather treat, the Cuppa Red Hot Chocolate. Here, pastry chef Tracey Dempsey interprets it as a cool, utterly decadent dessert: a rich chocolate-cinnamon pot de crme that's almost as thick as fudge, served in an oversized cup fit for cocoa. The only thing "hot" about it is a froth of oozy chipotle cream on top — perfect to scoop up with the spicy ginger cookie that comes with it. We'd happily splurge on a cuppa that any day, no matter the season.
We usually order dessert when we're out somewhere fancy, when the conclusion of a multicourse meal calls for something sweet to go with our after-dinner cup o' joe. But after lunch at a sandwich shop? Hardly ever — unless we're at Bertha's Café, where it's a given. At this friendly, inconspicuous little eatery, desserts are impossible to resist, appealingly displayed in a big case right next to the front counter. From cookies and muffins to malted brownies, it's all good, but we're particularly fond of their rich, creamy, homemade cheesecakes. Sometimes it's actually hard to choose from the daily assortment of just-made mini-cakes, with creative concoctions like s'mores, baklava, and banana cream. Bertha's flavors are anything but plain Jane.
Check your guilt at the door. From buttery grits and mac 'n' cheese to the famous fried chicken served with a hot stack of waffles, everything at Lo-Lo's is stick-to-your-ribs delicious. So it only makes sense that dessert here would be a luscious affair, worth every calorie-laden bite. And, boy, does the red velvet cake deliver. One slice of this sweet, red-tinted chocolate cake — slathered in buttery cream-cheese icing that we could just eat with a spoon — is thick enough to feed two people. Still, we'd rather get one all for ourselves. We figure, if we're gonna blow our diet, we might as well do it with gusto.
We love olive oil drizzled on salads or soaked up with a soft piece of bread, but in dessert? Admittedly, the sound of olive oil cake turned us off at first. But we were very pleasantly surprised when curiosity got the better of us at radioMILANO, and now it's our favorite choice for sweet satisfaction at the end of the meal. Here, the thick slice of cake is so moist and velvety that it's hard to eat just a bite or two. It's served with a huge, smooth dollop of thickened cream (you'll never be able to eat Cool Whip again after tasting it) and a nice blob of blackberry jam, although we'd gladly eat it plain. And here's a word to the wise: Get your own piece. The rest of the menu might be full of shareable small plates, but when it comes to olive oil cake, we gotta look after ourselves.
Gelato, yogurt, custard — we can't keep track of the latest frozen treat trend, and frankly, why bother when you've got Mary Coyle in town? For more than 50 years, this wonderful business has padded hips in the Valley with its homemade ice cream — featuring old standards like rocky road and chocolate mint chip in a throwback of an ice cream parlor. Our advice: Go for the whipped cream, hot fudge, and nuts. You only live once, and it's not easy to find a place that's proud to make its product with 16 percent butterfat.
We used to think of milkshakes as a summertime treat, until we moved to Phoenix. Now they're as essential to us year-round as sunscreen, flip-flops, and car window shades. Whenever we're in the mood to cool down with a creamy, dreamy chocolate malted, or a picture-perfect strawberry shake with whipped cream and a cherry on top, we head to MacAlpine's Soda Fountain, where hand-scooped Thrifty ice cream, mixed to a froth with an old-fashioned milkshake blender, is one of the house specialties. Other sweet, slurpable options include phosphates in a variety of fruit flavors, egg creams, ice cream sodas, and floats. (We think sundaes might count, too, if you let them melt a little.) Part of the fun of going to MacAlpine's is sitting at the counter for an authentic soda fountain experience, or shimmying into a big wooden booth with a good view of all the vintage Pepsi and Coca-Cola signs on the walls. It makes us think about what the Valley might've been like back in the good ol' days, before it was a sweltering metropolis — and that alone makes us feel just a little bit cooler.
After getting rubbed, scrubbed, and generally pampered to the point of exhaustion, a spa-goer is bound to get hungry. After all, you can only get so full on apples and cucumber-lemon water. At most spas in the Valley — which qualify as some of the best in the country — the dining options run the gamut of light fare, from smoothies to sandwiches and salads. Nothing wrong with that, but the healthful cuisine at the Spa at Camelback Inn is truly of another caliber. Early birds can chow down on a veggie-packed frittata with smoked basil mozzarella or a Belgian waffle with caramelized bananas and raspberries, while midday diners can indulge in guilt-free entrees like miso-glazed salmon with fennel orange sauce, shrimp fettuccine with pesto, and blue crab cakes with watercress and spicy chile remoulade. It's all so flavorful and artfully presented that you'd never think it's low-cal — except that the menu lists calories, fat, protein, and carbs for every dish. Good thing they make it easy to keep track of nutritional details, because after an hour-long hot stone massage, we're way too relaxed to worry about it.
Some people need to be dared to try foie gras or escargots, but not us. The only thing we don't like about them is that they aren't more popular. Luckily, Méthode Bistro satisfies our jones for exotic ingredients, and then some. Yes, they have foie gras — paired with chocolate croquembouche and lavender gastrique — while their snails are basil-fed (yes, they really taste like fresh basil), topped with almond foam and meuniere sauce. And for slightly more timid souls, chef-owner Matt McLinn's delightful, Mediterranean-inspired menu includes plenty of classic entrees, such as roasted paella with seasonal shellfish and chorizo, or ricotta gnocchi with Guinea hen and crispy artichokes. But for adventurous foodies on the prowl for exotic ingredients and novel preparations, his "Outside the Box" appetizer menu really delivers. Other options include veal sweetbreads with polenta, lamb tongue cooked sous vide with rosemary and summer truffles, and squab confit with foie gras-stuffed mallard hearts. (Either that just made you say eww, or it made you really hungry. High five if it's the latter.)
Phoenix would be a much more neighborly city if only there were more restaurants like Lola Tapas. Spending so much time in our cars, in a land where pedestrians are few and far between, we won't just stumble on a sense of community unless we frequent the same places over and over — or unless we stop by Lola for an intimate meal with our best friends and a whole bunch of sociable strangers. Aside from a small wine bar in the back of this adorable, saffron-colored eatery — owned and operated by Daniel and Felicia Ruiz Wayne, the former owners of Lux Coffeebar — it's all table seating, thanks to a couple of dark, sleek communal tables that run the length of the room. Don't worry, your neighbors won't butt in on your conversation, although they just might inquire about that yummy-looking thing you're eating. From delectable jamon serrano with mahon and manchego cheeses, to garlicky garbanzo beans with sautéed spinach, to skewers of grilled marinated pork, the tapas here are certainly as appealing to the eye as to the taste buds. After a glass or two of thirst-quenching homemade sangria, filled with soft chunks of fresh fruit, you'll be schmoozing like an old pro.
You can watch chefs cooking on television, or perhaps at a culinary festival, but most of the time, in the real, day-to-day world of the restaurant biz, they work their magic behind the scenes. At Sea Saw, though, chef-owner Nobuo Fukuda and his team of kitchen protégés are as much an attraction as the food. With just a handful of tables around the room, and an open kitchen surrounded by counter seating, anybody who walks through the door is bound to get a glimpse of the James Beard Award-winning Fukuda preparing his inventive, tapas-style Japanese fusion cuisine. The place to be, of course, is right along the counter, where you can really get up-close and personal with the master at work. You won't necessarily get to chat him up too much — which is obvious as soon as you see the intense focus and urgent pace of all the kitchen staff — but watching the ebb and flow of dinner service, with the gratification of eating the end results, is truly memorable. Sea Saw really is something to see.
When we hit up the Big Apple, our friends like to dazzle us with a whirlwind of bright lights/big city excitement. But when they visit us, we don't even attempt to reciprocate. Why bother, when there's nowhere in the Valley that could compare with Manhattan's intensely urban vibe?
Instead, we show them our yin to their yang at elements, the jewel in the crown of the exclusive Sanctuary resort. Nestled into the side of Camelback Mountain, it's all about desert tranquility, with a dramatic view of the surrounding mountains and the dim twinkle of Paradise Valley in the distance. Hey, just because we don't do much in the way of skyscrapers doesn't mean we can't boast a mesmerizing view. (There's also plenty of eye candy at Jade Bar, the sleek, sexy watering hole adjacent to the restaurant.) As for the Asian-influenced American cuisine at elements, it's up there with New York's finest culinary hot spots. For proof, look no further than to executive chef Beau MacMillan, whose melt-in-your-mouth short ribs helped him beat New York celebrity chef Bobby Flay on The Food Network's Iron Chef America last year.
After a visit to elements, don't be surprised if your NY friends start sporting "I ♥ AZ" T-shirts.
Despite the name, sushi isn't the only reason to visit Yasu Sushi Bistro. This stylish, pocket-sized restaurant also happens to feature ultra-buttery wagyu, Japan's most sought-after, exquisite beef. Here, you get to grill it yourself at your table. Other top-notch dishes from the sumibiyaki menu — items cooked over fragrant binchotan charcoal — include sea scallops wrapped in bacon, and tsukune, homemade chicken meatballs coated in a smoky-sweet sauce. As for the sushi bar here, it's a lot more intimate (that is, a lot smaller) than the standard kind — and downright minuscule compared with the sleek expanses at Valley hot spots where the décor threatens to outdazzle the eats — but that only makes the seats that much more desirable, as far as we're concerned. All the better to get face time with talented chef Yasu Hashino, who co-owns the restaurant with Yoshi Natori, the founder of Yoshi's. Hashino has a rep for being ultra-picky about his seafood, and it shows in the freshness and quality of his creations.
Even old favorites, like salmon or yellowtail, are somehow more sublime here. But for a truly thrilling meal, check out the list of specials, where you'll find more unusual offerings like sanma (mackerel pike), aji (Spanish mackerel), and ankimo (monkfish liver pate). Hashino won't buy fish that's more than a few gasps out of the ocean, so go ahead and be adventurous. There's no telling whether it'll be on the menu tomorrow.
Forget about time machines. If you want a blast from the past, just ride the Pink Pony into the sunset of Scottsdale history, back to the good old days when baseball greats like Ted Williams, Ty Cobb, Joe DiMaggio, and Willie Mays hung out at this Old Town landmark. Around for more than half a century, the old gal's held up pretty well — curvy, black vinyl booths and tiny cowboy boot lamps give it a true 1950s charm, while framed jerseys and autographed memorabilia make it feel like a cozy sports fan's hideout.
During spring training, Pink Pony's an obvious destination for pilgrims paying tribute to America's pastime, but even in the off-season, it's a reliable stop for hungry patrons in search of a stiff cocktail, a juicy slab of prime rib, and a healthy dose of old-school cool.
In just a few short years, the reputation of chef-owner Kevin Binkley's eponymous fine dining establishment has risen to nearly legendary status, thanks to a combination of attentive, professional service, charming atmosphere, and above all, outstanding French-influenced contemporary cuisine that's both inspired and inspiring. Despite its far-flung location in Cave Creek — better known for biker bars and desert scenery — it's become a must-visit for foodies across the Valley, not to mention pleasure-seeking visitors from the area's high-end resorts. Chef Binkley's culinary brilliance reveals itself in obsessively sourced premium ingredients (with an emphasis on local and organic) and inventive flavor combinations, making every dish a mini-masterpiece. That's no surprise, given his resumé, which includes stints working under chef Patrick O'Connell at Virginia's The Inn at Little Washington, as well as chef Thomas Keller at The French Laundry in Napa Valley. Meanwhile, his accomplished wife, Amy, the maitre d', runs the front of the house with grace.
Based on what's seasonally available, the menu here evolves daily. And while you certainly won't be disappointed ordering à la carte, the four-, five-, and six-course tasting menus are the best way to get the full Binkley's experience. (Expect a whirlwind of amuses-bouches between courses, each one more clever than the last.) If we had to put our money on the next big regional contender for a James Beard award, this is it.
Go now, before the spotlight on Binkley's shines even brighter.
Just stepping foot on the grounds of the Royal Palms Resort & Spa is enough to make you swoon. With its stately Spanish colonial architecture and lush, manicured grounds, it's no wonder this elegant property is a popular wedding site. But even if you're barely past your first date, dinner at T. Cook's is sure to spark some romance. From its high ceilings to its luxurious appointments, the dining room is the best spot in Phoenix for an amorous tte-à-tte with someone special. Chef Lee Hillson's lust-inducing menu takes its cues from Mediterranean cuisine, with contemporary flourishes. A sumptuous combination of pan-roasted duck breast and foie gras is served with a confit dumpling, preserved apricots, and spiced yogurt, while tagliatelle is dressed up with chanterelles, squash blossoms, and puréed arugula. For dessert, pastry chef Pierino Jermonti's dreamy creations are sure to conjure naughty thoughts; go for "Double the Sin," a baked double chocolate torte draped in brie and white chocolate cream. And in case that's not enough to seal the deal, be sure to consult the resort's Director of Romance. That's right — at the Royal Palms, they'll do whatever it takes to ensure love is in the air.
It seems like Tom and Chrysa Kaufman opened their charming eatery just yesterday, but believe it or not, it's been almost 14 years since this New Times favorite was the buzziest new restaurant in town. Plenty of accolades have followed (including many "Best ofs"), lots of competitors have come and gone, and the Kaufmans are now divorced (chef Chrysa has returned to using her maiden name, Robertson), but their restaurant is just as good as ever, a low-key modern classic where we can still count on the finest ingredients from local farms and a fat wine list filled with primo vintages and a few funny cartoons, too. The menu changes with the seasons, although there are plenty of reliable old favorites that bring us back again and again: crispy stuffed squash blossoms with cherry tomato vinaigrette, succulent grilled lamb chops with flageolet beans, roasted garlic, and preserved lemon, and their famous Nonni's Sunday Chicken, braised with wine and mushrooms. Sometimes change is inevitable, but we're glad that Rancho Pinot is still the same place we've always known and loved.
Inspired by the pioneer ranches of the Old West — and named after southeastern Arizona's Sierra Bonita Ranch, founded by Henry Hooker in 1872 — charming, comfortable Sierra Bonita Grill puts a delicious gourmet spin on our state's culinary traditions. The menu is mostly creative comfort food, with Mexican accents and native Southwestern ingredients. The red chile pork tamale, a heap of melt-in-your-mouth smoked pork and salsa on top of sweet, moist masa, is an edible work of art, while the goat cheese gratin with piquillo-chipotle purée is an addicting contrast between soothing and spicy.
Entrees are just as exciting; try the succulent beef tenderloin with red wine-prickly pear reduction, pecan-crusted trout with tangy orange-maple vinaigrette, or the outstanding buttermilk chicken, spooned with creamy black pepper gravy and served with the best mashed sweet potatoes this side of the Mississippi. For dessert, the bread pudding, drizzled with a punchy sauce of lime and Jack Daniel's whiskey, is so warm and soothing, it'll make you doze off better than a campfire.
It might sound like heresy to pick Wildfish over Eddie V's, but don't worry — they're related. Wildfish has all the ultra-fresh seafood you'd expect at its big brother restaurant, only it's housed in a sleek, sexy spot at the Scottsdale Waterfront. Reserve a table in the dining room when you're up for a full meal with all the bells and whistles, or grab a seat at the happening bar for a casual feast. (Nothing wrong with calling martinis and raw oysters dinner!)
This isn't run-of-the-mill seafood with lemon and butter, but an exciting menu with Asian touches that enhance the freshness of the day's catch without overwhelming it. Reel in some crisp calamari with cashews and red chile, or a killer crab cake served with spicy remoulade. Entree highlights include steamed Hong Kong-style Chilean sea bass; sea scallops sautéed with macadamia nuts, fresh citrus, and brown butter; and salmon with black bean vinaigrette. If you think there's no such thing as great seafood in the middle of the desert, you clearly haven't been here yet.
Who ever thought that steak could be trendy? From the looks of all the high-end steakhouses cropping up around town, sizzling slabs of beef are, ahem, hotter than ever. But they've always been in style at Donovan's, where all the steaks — the juicy New York strip, buttery filet mignon, and monster 20-ounce porterhouse, among others — are aged, USDA Prime cuts.
Ever wonder why you can't make a steak at home that tastes like this? Well, there's something about a good, 1,800-degree searing that takes the meat from delicious to divine, and Donovan's really knows how to bring the heat. The classy atmosphere, with tuxedo-clad waiters, dark mahogany walls, and elegant artwork everywhere, makes eating here a special occasion, and the hefty wine list and expertly made cocktails make drinking here enjoyable, too. When we're jonesing for the best — and money's no object — Donovan's is at the top of our list.
Marcellino Ristorante is a romantic fine-dining spot that transcends its inconspicuous location so well that you'll not only forget you're in a strip mall, you'll wonder whether you've stumbled through a magic portal straight to Italy. The authentic cuisine will suspend your disbelief, too. Sima Verzino will greet you warmly when you arrive, while her husband, chef Marcellino, works his culinary magic in the kitchen. Best known for his exquisite homemade pastas and vibrant sauces — such as light, pillowy gnocchi with tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella, and tender fettuccine with asparagus, tomato, scallions, arugula and ricotta — Marcellino also does an excellent job with fresh seafood and meats. Try the luscious scaloppine al gorgonzola, sautéed veal with creamy gorgonzola sauce, or gamberi affogati, plump, garlicky shrimp sautéed in white wine. And don't forget to order a good Italian wine, if only to toast la dolce vita in Phoenix.
There's nothing wrong with a little downsizing. Filomena and Anthony Di Franco, former owners of the popular but defunct Molise, sold their original restaurant and opened this charming nook two years ago. It seats fewer than half the guests that Molise once did, but that only means you'll get more attention from Filomena herself, along with daughter Ania and son Maurizio, who work in the cozy, rustic dining room.
Back in the kitchen, Anthony and daughter Sonia are cooking up a storm, using recipes from all over Italy, including the Di Francos' native region of Abruzzi. Look for simple, flavorful preparations, perfectly cooked pastas, and light sauces. None of the dishes will hit you over the head with richness — the Pernod cream sauce on the escargot ravioli tastes delicate, and even prosciutto and melted mozzarella don't overwhelm the succulent, sage-kissed saltimbocca. Spinach and ricotta-filled crespelle, and lasagna made with thin, homemade noodles, are also memorable.
You may finish your plate and feel perfectly content, but make way for dessert. After one bite of the luscious tiramisu, you'll thank us.
Zinc Bistro is as seductive as any restaurant you'd find in the City of Lights. Bright and airy by day, with abundant windows, high tin ceilings, crisp white tablecloths, and ample patio seating fit for an afternoon of people-watching, this stylish boîte transforms into an intimate, candlelit dinner destination come sundown. Grab a stool at the restaurant's namesake, a sleek, 25-foot zinc bar, for raw oysters on the half shell, Gruyre fondue, or a cheese platter, or shimmy onto a lipstick-red banquette and get a look at the full menu. Chef Matt Carter's creations successfully walk the fine line between traditional bistro fare and innovative French-inspired dishes — everything from classic moules frites and steak au poivre to spinach-goat cheese ravioli with oxtail and black truffles. When you're ready for your second wind, go for some French press coffee and chocolate soufflé, made with premium Callebaut chocolate. You'll leave feeling giddily satisfied, but sooner or later, don't be surprised to find yourself wanting more. At Zinc Bistro, infatuation is a given.
Okay, so it's perched on North Seventh Street instead of a rocky cliff by the Mediterranean, but this white-washed taverna is still a great place to find homestyle dishes just like gia gia used to make. We're not sure if there really is a staff of busy Greek grandmothers in the kitchen at GreekTown, although the food sure tastes like it was made from time-honored recipes. Traditional favorites like saganaki (flaming cheese), stuffed grape leaves, and marinated octopus make up the appetizer menu, while entrees run the gamut from Old Country staples like souvlaki and moussaka to more contemporary Greek-style dishes like veal sautéed with artichoke hearts, mushrooms, and white wine sauce. Add that to a friendly, festive atmosphere where wine flows at a Dionysian pace, and you'll be shouting "Opa!" before dessert rolls around. Just don't try throwing any plates.
Looks generally aren't everything when it comes to Vietnamese restaurants, which can range from bare bones to dive-y. And that's fine by us, as long as we get our pho fix. But when there's a good-looking newcomer, we notice. Dragonfly has a charming, relaxed cafe atmosphere that sets it apart from a lot of its competitors, but it's more than just a pretty face. The food here is phenomenal — fresh, beautifully presented, and bursting with memorable flavors. Goi cuon, filled with moist, smoked halibut, are a welcome variation on traditional spring rolls, and the summery shredded papaya salad is the perfect balance of tangy, sweet, and spicy. As for the pho — steaming bowls of rice noodle soup that are a Vietnamese staple — Dragonfly's herb-filled broth tastes just right.
Somehow the stylish folks at Swaddee have managed to dress up a run-of-the-mill strip mall space and make it feel like a treasure, with Thai artwork in gleaming jeweltones, and pretty patterned slipcovers to disguise the chairs and booths. The food is all about splendor, too, with fragrant flavors like basil, coconut, garlic, lemongrass, and ginger. We're so crazy about the roasted duck curry — a rich stew of moist duck meat, pineapple chunks, and tomatoes swimming in savory red curry — that we'd slurp it straight from the dish if we weren't afraid of being caught behaving badly. There's a lot in the way of seafood (try pla lard prik, crispy catfish zinged up with red curry and basil), as well as noodles, half a dozen kinds of soup filled with fresh herbs, sautéed dishes packed with vegetables, and tangy salads like larb, a spicy mix of ground beef, chili, red onions, mint leaves, and lime juice. And no matter how much we stuff ourselves with spicy goodness, it's always nice to finish with something sweet. When it's in season, mango with sweet sticky rice is our favorite. Oh, if only every neighborhood ethnic place were half this tasty, or half this cute.
Who cares if Phoenix doesn't have a real Chinatown? Even though we might have to drive a little further to find it, we still have killer Hong Kong-style food at Super Dragon, an institution whose reputation goes well beyond its north Phoenix address.
Unlike the typical Chinatown dive, the atmosphere here is soothing and immaculately clean, but the flavors are just as authentic (minus the MSG) — heaps of pan-fried chow fun noodles with a vaguely smoky fragrance, rich Cantonese roasted duck, and sizzling rice crust soup. And Super Dragon's specialty dish, House's Chicken, is to die for: a platter of crisp, golden fried chicken slathered in chile and scallion-flecked garlic sauce. Sure, they have safe bets like moo goo gai pan, too, but go for the unusual offerings, like cold jellyfish. After all, you probably won't find this stuff at your neighborhood Chinese place.
Looking for a hot ticket to spicy Korean cuisine? Try Hodori. Tucked into one of the East Valley's best strip malls for Asian cuisine (also home to Chinese and Vietnamese restaurants, as well as a small Korean grocery store), this no-frills eatery feeds a savvy crowd that's hungry for authentic Seoul food at reasonable prices. Hodori doesn't skimp on the panchan, those delightful small plates that prep the palate with a variety of flavors and textures, from peppery kimchi to soothing chilled bean sprouts. You could practically make a meal out of those, but hold out for generously sized main dishes like still-sizzling bulgogi (marinated barbecued beef), bibimbap (beef, vegetables and egg on top of rice), or one of Hodori's nuclear-strength tofu soups, served in super-heated bowls that keep 'em sputtering and nearly boiling over as you dip into their chili-red broth. Hodori really knows how to bring the heat.
We first found out about this recent addition to the Ahwatukee dining scene from several friends who raved about it — and all of them are Japanese. Kinda says something about a place, doesn't it? Of course, you don't need to be a Nippon native to figure out what a find Sushi Ken is. We love the casual, unpretentious atmosphere, the glossy, photo-filled menu (which makes us drool every time), and the easy-on-the-wallet prices. (Dinner combos for under ten bucks? Hai!) So far, we haven't tried a single thing we haven't liked here, and although we stop by every chance we get, we still haven't even come close to exhausting our options. Dream it up, and Sushi Ken has it covered: soba and udon noodle soups, broiled marinated cod, korokke, yudofu, chicken katsu, and sushi galore. They have nearly two dozen kinds of sake on hand, and they even serve honest-to-goodness, hard-to-find Japanese desserts like mitsumame and anmitsu. Forget about light rail; if we had our way, we'd head to Sushi Ken by high-speed bullet train.
From crisp, white tablecloths and ornate Indian décor to the incredible, complex aromas wafting from the kitchen, everything about Indian Delhi Palace hints at a good meal to come, even before you crack open the menu. And sure enough, once the royal feast kicks in, you'll be dazzled by the flavors here — smoky chicken tikka masala, luscious lamb korma, and vibrant palak paneer (creamed spinach with cubes of cheese) are just a few of the standout dishes, which we like to wash down with a frothy yogurt lassi. As for the buttery garlic naan, it's simply fantastic, probably worthy of its own "Best of" for a perfect balance of crisp and doughy textures (not to mention how handy it is for cleaning up every last drop of curry on our plate). And come dessert time, try the creamy rice pudding or some syrup-soaked gulab jamun, even if you think you don't have room. A meal this tasty can't end with anything less than a food coma.
We're in heaven every time we head down Apache, from Rural to McClintock — as far as we can tell, there's nowhere else in the Valley with such an incredible variety of Middle Eastern restaurants in such close proximity. Really, they ought to rename it Shawarma Street. And planted right in the middle of it all is a lovely bistro of the Persian persuasion, Tasty Kabob. Along with solid Mediterranean standards like hummus, stuffed grape leaves, tabbouleh, and juicy, charbroiled kebabs (they have eight kinds, including a marinated filet mignon version), there are plenty of specialty dishes you won't find anywhere else. Eggplant borany bears a superficial resemblance to baba gannouj, but here, the pita-perfect dip combines creamy puréed eggplant with onions, garlic, mint, and a drizzle of yogurt sauce. Fesenjan is a meatball dish with cooked walnuts and pomegranate sauce, and ghormeh sabzi is an aromatic concoction of beef, herbs, and beans. Even dessert is unusual: rosewater-saffron ice cream. Sure, Tasty Kabob lives up to its name, but there's so much more to love about this place beyond meat on a stick.
Ethiopian dishes may not be household words yet — zegeney, anyone? — but no matter. All you need to know is that the food at Blue Nile Café is as homey and satisfying as any meat-and-potatoes meal, with way better seasonings. And thanks to moist injera (a kind of thin, spongy sourdough bread), you don't even need to eat with utensils. The above-mentioned beef dish is cooked with tomatoes, onions, garlic, and ginger, while tender yedor watt, a chicken entree, dazzles with spicy berbere sauce. Hearty vegetarian dishes get the same slow-simmered treatment, and appetizers are just as intriguing; we're partial to the kay seer salad (a tangy mix of beets, potatoes, chilies and lime juice) and the addicting, deep-fried sambussas (crisp golden pockets of meat or vegetables). If you can, snag a table in the back room, where colorful woven basket-tables add to the authentic experience. Blue Nile Café has style and substance — and did we mention it's cheap?
Even card-carrying carnivores won't miss their beloved animal protein at Green, where seemingly hardcore vegan cuisine — which leaves out dairy as well as meat — gets an American comfort-food spin. Whether you prefer mock meats, tofu, or just a whole lot of vegetables, Green's preparations are fresh and flavorful, with exotic seasonings and sometimes a gutsy degree of spiciness. Bland rabbit food this ain't. Irresistible starters include curry and vegetable-filled samosas with tamarind sauce, and garlicky, chipotle-flavored hummus with pieces of crisp fried pita. There's plenty in the way of Asian-style rice bowls and pan-fried noodles, but the kitchen also cranks out some excellent flatbread pizzas (yes, there is such a thing as vegan cheese), salads, and sandwiches. After a few bites of Green's Argentine po' boy, stuffed with fake steak, caramelized onions and peppers, and zingy chimichurri sauce, we feel like we'll never need to eat real meat again. But what about dairy? Oh, yeah, they even have homemade soy ice cream. What will they think of next?
Oh, so you're finally gonna dust off that nice bottle of wine you've been hoarding for so long? It's about time. And, boy, do we know just the place for you to drink it: Coup des Tartes, a wonderful but almost too well-hidden bistro located just south of Highland, in a quaint, historic house.
With wood floors, coved ceilings, and candles everywhere, the atmosphere is special-occasion cozy, completely worthy of that fine vintage you're ready to sip. The menu's outstanding, too, with dishes that change with the seasons to showcase natural meats, wild fish, and lots of local, organic produce. There are a few old favorites you always count on, like spicy, Moroccan-style lamb shank, juicy filet mignon, and luxuriously creamy risotto, dressed up with whatever's fresh. And no matter what entrée they come with, the Yukon mashed potatoes here are incredible — so buttery you'll want to lick the plate.
Come dessert time, there are usually about a half-dozen freshly baked tarts to choose from. Your bottle will probably be kicked by then, but in case you need consolation, the sweet banana brûlée will definitely do the trick.
Whether you're a nostalgia buff or just a burger lover, head to Welcome Diner for some old-fashioned flavor. Situated on a quiet corner in the historic Garfield District, just a few blocks east of all the art galleries on Roosevelt Row, this adorable Depression-era diner, done up in bright white paint with cheerful red trim, is a true vintage treasure. Inside, there are only nine seats at the compact counter, where it's easy to get acquainted with your fellow diners, and there's always a good view of owner Pete Hearn manning the minuscule kitchen. (And there's more seating outdoors, for the milder months of the year.) The menu is as simple as diner food should be, with an emphasis on premium ingredients, from juicy, organic burgers to freshly made, hand-cut french fries. Living in this fast-food nation — where we couldn't be less connected to where our hot dogs are made or who's cooking our lunch — a trip to Welcome Diner is a refreshing blast from a more personable past.
You've got to consider a lot of things, when looking for just the right Jewish deli. How are the knishes? Is the meat fresh? The bagels? What sort of horror will cross the waitress's face when you try to order ham and cheese with mayo on white bread? (Just kidding; we know we're in Phoenix, meaning deli staff has seen it all.) For us, the most important measure is the chopped liver. Is it creamy but substantial, flavored with onions, just like grandma used to make? Why, yes, at Scott's, it is. No generation gap here! Even better than we remember. And served with a heap of bagel chips, cucumber and sliced onions. Heaven on a plate. Or a heart attack, depending on your perspective — and cholesterol level — which is why we're glad this whole taste-test "best of" thing only comes around once a year.
If you think Italian delis are defined by meatball subs and tortellini salad, boy, are you in for culture shock. A far cry from the old-school neighborhood deli standard, Andreoli's is way more Old Country, making it a rare find. Nowadays, how many delis are hangouts for honest-to-goodness Italians? Here, they're all around you, feasting on authentic dishes like grilled, marinated calamari, roasted peppers with garlic and anchovy sauce, bresaola with arugula and shaved Parmigiano, or perfect panini filled with prosciutto or homemade sausage. If you want a taste of la dolce vita, just follow their lead. Grab a San Pellegrino Limonada — or a glass of Chianti — and settle in for a leisurely lunch with friends. Then, instead of rushing home or back to work, finish off with a fresh pastry and a cappuccino. Take your time, and don't bother looking at your watch. When the food's this good, is there anywhere else you'd rather be?
Who cares if Mardi Gras is months away? As long as we can get a mighty fine taste of Louisiana, we're always ready to let the good times roll — and Baby Kay's is the place to bring the party. Tucked into the Town & Country Shopping Center, this Big Easy-going eatery is the perfect place to share good conversation and a few drinks with friends who appreciate the finer things in life — like seafood gumbo, fried catfish, hush puppies and crab cakes. The jambalaya, studded with chunks of chicken and andouille sausage, is one of our favorite dishes here. But sometimes, we stop by just for an oyster po' boy with remoulade. And daily specials are worth planning ahead for, especially the Wednesday-night crawfish boils, when the critters are in season. Every time we eat here, we can't help thinking, "Baby, you're the greatest."
When you're looking for a little Southern comfort, Mrs. White's Golden Rule Café will definitely do the trick. This modest downtown eatery, where the menu's written on the walls and customers use the honor system to pay the cashier, has been keeping locals fat and happy for 40-odd years, thanks to delicious fried catfish, golden hunks of fried chicken, chicken-fried steak, and thick, juicy pork chops. Swab up that luscious gravy with a crumbly piece of cornbread, and don't forget to load up on satisfying side dishes, from mouth-watering candied yams to black-eyed peas and perfect greens. You might do a double-take at the generous portions here, but you also may surprise yourself at the end of the meal, when you're slurping down the last of your lemonade, wondering how you packed it all away. Well, believe it. These eats are just what your soul food-lovin' soul is seeking.
You never know when a good idea may strike. For Joe Johnston, inspiration struck on his frequent business trips to Texas, where he sampled the goods at every barbecue joint he stumbled upon. By the time he found the perfect spot to open a barbecue restaurant in his hometown — a 1929 brick building in downtown Gilbert — he'd already perfected his business plan. And now Joe's Real BBQ stands as a testament to all the good grub he had in the Lone Star State, hawking the best barbecue in the Valley. From smoky, slow-cooked brisket, served sliced or chopped, to chicken, hot links, and ham, the menu of pecan-smoked meats is a carnivore's dream.
Pulled pork is served relatively unadorned, a heap of moist, savory shreds that you can dress up with Joe's original recipe barbecue sauce, or the tangy, hot habanero version. And the pork ribs are as mouthwatering as candy — tender inside, with a thick, brown crust coated in sweet, sticky sauce. BBQ pit beans, old-fashioned cole slaw, and gooey mac 'n' cheese topped with buttery baked crumbs are just a few of the fabulous side dishes, and homemade root beer is a tasty way to wash it all down. When you make your way through Joe's cafeteria-style line, be sure to grab a few toothpicks and wet naps. Trust us, you'll put 'em to good use.
There's plenty of 'cue in the PHX, but only one place serves up anything close to the vinegary pulled-pork ambrosia known as North Carolina-style BBQ. Actually, NC BBQ is divided into opposing camps, a sweet tomatoey version, and a tangy vinegary recipe that's the most beloved amongst Tar Heels. Thing is, not many folks outside of Carolina appreciate the vinegar-drenched variety, so if you head into Glendale's Restaurant 28 and don't know to ask for the vinegar-based "Eastern North Carolina" 'cue, you might receive the tomato-based "Western North Carolina" style stuff. And though that's tasty, any true son of the Old North State will tell you it's not the crme de la porker. So request the real deal when you stop by, and don't forget to enjoy it with all the fixins: collard greens, golden brown hush puppies, fried okra, red beans and rice, yams, fried chicken gizzards, chitterlings (pig intestines) if you're very brave, and for dessert, peach cobbler, nutty buddy pie, or sweet potato pie. Then be prepared to waddle back to your car, whistlin' N.C.'s James Taylor all the way.
Unlike many restaurants, where breakfast offerings are off-limits by 10:30 or 11 a.m., Butterfield's starts dishing it up at the ungodly hour of 6 a.m. and doesn't stop until midafternoon. That's a good thing. It doesn't matter if it's a plateful of scrambled eggs with prosciutto, a fluffy stack of buttermilk pancakes, or a spinach crepe slathered in creamy Hollandaise sauce, hearty breakfast food always tastes good to us.
We even like to just sit and read Butterfield's lengthy menu, which has too many waffles and skillets and frittatas to count — at least until we get a few cups of strong Boyd's coffee in us. The OJ is great here, too, served fresh-outta-the-orange. (If you're not seated in plain view of the restaurant's industrial-strength juicer, that sweet, fruity smell may still waft over to your table.) On days when we're too spent to wake up before noon, and only a good omelet will do, you know where to find us.
There's nothing like breakfast at a great greasy spoon to kick-start our day after a long, booze-soaked night of partying at Casey Moore's. Tucked into a humble freestanding building on a rare stretch of University that hasn't been razed for high-rise condos, Harlow's Café seems as if it sprouted up for the very purpose of soothing our aching heads and growling bellies. Hair of the dog isn't an option here, but strong coffee and friendly, good-looking waitstaff definitely help us with a speedy recovery. As for the stick-to-your-ribs menu, it's straightforward and classic, with everything from fluffy pancakes and hefty homemade biscuits with gravy to hearty omelets and huevos rancheros. The portions are jaw-dropping, to boot. Witness the glorious Eggs Maximillian, a house specialty with heaps of hash browns, addictingly good chorizo, green chiles, eggs, salsa, and sour cream, all piled on top of a tortilla as big as the plate it's served on. It's easy to forget about our hangover when we're distracted by food this tasty.
When we can't stand the thought of Denny's, and only a classy brunch will do, El Chorro Lodge is our choice for a leisurely Sunday-morning feast. The menu has an old-school vibe — chipped beef, anyone? — not for any intentionally retro-chic reason, but because El Chorro's a Valley institution (just look around at the properly dressed clientele, which looks as if it's been coming here for decades). Eggs Benedict is the house specialty, from traditional and vegetarian versions to the delectable salmon lox Benedict and mouthwatering filet mignon Benedict. There are also expertly cooked omelets, some of the best French toast around (made with homemade cinnamon bread and golden raisins), and a selection of brunch-worthy sandwiches and salads. Superb coffee and fresh-squeezed juice are a couple more pluses. Truth be told, we could easily fill up on El Chorro's legendary sticky buns (complimentary with every meal), but if we saw somebody eating a plate of El Chorro's fine corned beef hash, we'd probably be insanely jealous.
Every so often, we like to wave our little pinkies high and take in afternoon tea at one of the posh spots in the Valley. This year's fave? The venerable Arizona Biltmore — as much for its history as for its heavenly finger fare. (Well, the salmon mousse with mascarpone cheese on a mini fish bouchee did put it over the top.)
The Biltmore opened in 1929. That's modern history to the Brits, given that the custom of afternoon tea dates to the 19th century, but for us, anything before 1950 is downright ancient; in fact, the Biltmore claims to be the state's first resort. We love any reason to skulk into the lobby and hang among the Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired architecture, taking in the tasteful décor (not to mention the hotel guests they're great for people-watching) but we'd clocked so much time at the lobby bar we figured it was high time to get some tea.
We were glad we did. So that you don't interrupt that lobby bar buzz, may we suggest the Biltmore Royal Tea, which includes tea sandwiches, scones, French pastries and a Kir Royal alongside your tea. We sampled the Bombay Chai, while our companion (a real Brit herself) insisted, as always, on the Original English Breakfast. "Breakfast" was served with the aforementioned salmon sandwich, as well as an assortment including beef tenderloin, ham and watercress, and cambolza cheese with wild berry compote in a coupelle tart. (Try saying that three times fast, after a Kir Royal!)
The sandwiches were followed by spiced currant and apricot scones, as well as banana bread. And then, dessert, which included pistachio truffles, bittersweet chocolate dipped strawberries and (our favorite) a pot of gold peppermint mousse.
After our afternoon tea, we were ready for an afternoon nap, but alas, we had to head back to the office. We did so feeling much more civilized, thank you very much.
Whether you're 6 or 60, young lady, there's nothing better than a tea party. And that's why we are so in love with the English Rose. Their "Nursery Tea" is just right for our little one — complete with a three-tiered tray, bearing beautiful PB&J and cheese sandwiches, fresh fruit, and cookies. Even lemonade in the china teapot, if that's what precious prefers. The regular tea fit us perfectly, too, including chicken and walnut salad and cucumber sandwiches, with petit fours for dessert, if you still have room. Best of all, although this little English outpost in the desert is tiny, and positively packed with breakable trinkets, the staff will welcome your whirling dervish with open arms and a big box of dress-up clothes. Let us correct our previous statement: There's nothing better than a tea party when you're wearing a bright orange flower-trimmed straw hat, wrapped in a hot pink boa.
We practically floated out of the Mandala Tearoom, and it wasn't just because we were so buoyant, after sampling the black pomegranate iced and hot orange detox tea. The bare-bones, relaxed vibe of this self-described "urban tearoom" seeped into our karma, making us feel like we'd just been in tree pose for a week. We do have to admit that we opened the menu warily, expecting a list of nuts and seeds. And while Mandala does offer a list of raw foods (we're sure they're quite tasty, although we weren't brave enough to sample them) we stuck with the organic, cooked stuff. (Still all vegetarian, much of it vegan.) We loved the Mandala Macro Platter, a complete meal with adzuki beans, brown rice, and sautéed veggies. And the sauce on the curry vermicelli rice noodle bowl was downright decadent.
Maybe it was because we'd cleared our head and our palate, but we've got to tell you, this is the best tea we've ever tasted. Full-bodied, but not too strong, we drank cup after cup and wondered how this place gets by with just one loo.
If holding a stiff drink in your hand is more your cup of tea, then the Ritz-Carlton is for you. Around the world, the hotel chain is known for its signature, afternoon tea service. But on Thursday and Friday afternoons in Phoenix, the hotel's "salon de thé" takes a twist. Jeffrey, the Ritz-Carlton's tea master, has created a line of tea-infused cocktails and mar-tea-nis for the hotel's high-tea-turned-happy-hour, called "Tea with a Twist." When the traditional tea service ends at 5 p.m., the real fun begins. Tea master Jeffrey, who is also a jazz singer, and Nicole (the popular pianist from My Florist Cafe) team up with percussionist E.J. Rodriguez (from the Deborah Harry/Jazz Passengers CD Live in Spain) to fill the Lobby Lounge while you get your drink on with delights spiked with high-quality oolong, sencha, and jasmine. Now that's what we call high tea!
What we love about the food at this cool downtown tavern is how quirky and unexpected it is. (It's not unlike the watering hole itself, which resides in a restored, century-old house, where indie rock blares from the sound system and craft brews flow from the taps.) If your idea of bar food is fries, greasy pizza, and hot wings, you're in for a surprise. Owner Matt Pool's notion of what goes well with beer is pretty eclectic, from top-notch deviled eggs and chips with homemade dips to kicky beans and franks, and an assortment of stellar sammies. Our favorite is the Honeymooner, a grilled bologna and cheddar cheese sandwich with a crisp, buttery crust, followed by the Norcino, stuffed with layers of Italian meats. The Roosevelt also does an awesome panini-style grilled cheese with homemade tomato soup, as well as an impressive hot pretzel, and a cheese plate with selections that change often. Indeed, it all tastes great with a cold one, but we'd be hungry for this place even if it weren't a bar.
More than 20 years since Chef Vincent Guerithault first dazzled Phoenix foodies with his ground-breaking menu — which combines traditional French cuisine with distinctively Southwestern touches — his restaurant still sets an example for fine dining in the Valley. Nowadays, of course, Guerithault's fusion cuisine is considered classic, unlike so many restaurant trends that have come and gone over the past couple of decades. Duck tamales with Anaheim chiles, corn ravioli with truffle oil, shrimp beignets, and house-smoked salmon quesadillas — honestly, we can't see ourselves ever tiring of this stuff. Same goes for the upscale but unpretentious atmosphere, and service so gracious that they'll hardly let you out the door without a bite of dessert, even when you're too stuffed to order it. Indeed, it's hard to turn down a free slice of fruit tart, but if you're really smart, you'll plan ahead and leave some room for the wonderful chocolate soufflé. It's so warm and intensely flavored that you'll float out of the restaurant on a cloud.
No, you really can't have too much of a good thing. Chef Vincent Guerithault clearly knew he had a winning formula with his long-running Saturday market, which takes place during nonsummer months in the parking lot outside of his eponymous fine-dining establishment. So, a few years ago, taking the idea a step further, he opened Vincent's Market Bistro, right on the same property, giving fans of the market — and folks who weren't up for a fancy feast next door — the chance to enjoy casual French fare all year long. Serving breakfast, lunch, early dinner, and weekend brunch, the kitchen turns out lovely salads, grilled fish and meat prepared Provenal-style, perfect omelets, and traditional dishes like tartiflette (a baked crock full of potatoes, Reblochon cheese, onions, ham, and bacon), as well as classic coq au vin. Complimentary croissants and dessert are thoughtful touches that turn any meal here into a delightful occasion.
Just because it's gourmet doesn't mean it's pretentious. On the contrary, Pizzeria Bianco's menu is streamlined and simple, with only six kinds of pizza and 10 add-ons. These rustic pies don't try to show off with outlandish combinations of exotic toppings. Instead, they're all about the best, freshest ingredients available, from handmade mozzarella to local, organic vegetables. And the crust? Just incredible, the perfect balance between crisp and chewy. Chef-owner Chris Bianco mans the wood-fired oven himself, so every pizza's up to par. Clearly, the guy's turned pizza-making into a Zen art, and that's why foodies from across the country are clamoring to get here. Among locals, though, Pizzeria Bianco's surprisingly controversial — besides crowds of adoring fans, there are plenty of folks who get their panties in a bunch about the lengthy wait (sometimes an hour or two, sometimes three or more). "Why should we wait that long for pizza when we can get something just as good in our own 'hood?" they say. Well, we've tried all the alternatives, and though there's plenty of decent pizza in these parts, none of it could take the place of Bianco's distinctive pies. There's just no comparison. And really, the wait ain't so bad if you go next door to Bar Bianco for a cheese plate and a bottle of wine. At least there's hope of getting a table if you hang out long enough. Just imagine if Pizzeria Bianco required reservations — then the waiting list would probably be a month or two! We can't stand the thought.
Back East, there's no shortage of great little local joints where you can grab a quick slice or two, suck down a soda, and get on with your day. But for some reason, the Valley's got a severe shortage in that department. (Sure, there's plenty of pizza to be found, as long as you're hungry for a whole pie.)
Good thing there's Mamma Mia, a fast, friendly pizzeria with just a handful of seats and a small counter in front of the brick oven.
Of course, they have whole pizzas, subs, strombolis and pastas, too, but we can't think of a better place for a cheap, tasty slice when we're in a hurry.
Run by New Jersey natives, Mamma Mia serves up an exemplary piece of pizza, with a thin, crisp crust, primo sauce with a bit of tomatoey sweetness, and just the right amount of cheese, all bubbly and lightly browned. Every neighborhood should have a spot like this.
Does the absence of red sauce on a pizza make any difference? You bet it does. White pizza's a class unto itself — a distinctly craveable dish that seems simple, but is hard to find done as beautifully as Miele's fine pie. Here, the crust is crisp and flavorful, thin but still sturdy enough to hold a gooey, bubbly layer of melted mozzarella dotted with globs of creamy ricotta. A few delicate shreds of fresh basil add an aromatic touch that complements the subtle flavors of the cheese, and there's enough garlic on there to make your tongue tingle. While our pizza's still in the oven, we usually start off with an order of Miele's doughy, hot-out-of-the-oven garlic knots, just to get in the mood. Sure, they're filling, but once the white pizza arrives, we get lost in garlicky bliss. How blissful, you ask? Well, let's just say that we've never had to worry about leftovers from Miele's.
Most of the time, we can behave ourselves at restaurants, politely munching on an appetizer that we'd rather inhale, or discreetly digging into an entree that we feel like shoveling into our mouth. Not when it comes to burgers, though. When we get our hands around a good one, all attempts at civility fall by the wayside, and our primal instincts go into overdrive. Please forgive us if hot juices are dribbling down our chin when we sink our teeth into a thick, juicy beef patty — at times like that, we can't be bothered with a napkin, especially when it's The Orange Table's ridiculous Arrogant Bastard Rustler cheeseburger. That's right. They use a splash of our favorite craft brew, Stone Arrogant Bastard Ale, to simmer a half-pound of ground Angus, which they slather with mayo and barbecue sauce, then top with melted provolone, bacon, and veggies. As an extra bonus, they give you the nearly full bottle of brewski for just three bucks more. But one word of caution: don't order the beer before the burger, unless you're ready to drink another round. The squeaky-clean staff at Orange Table won't take your back-washed beer back to the kitchen once you've started drinking. You'll have to order a fresh one. Ah, the sacrifice . . .
Nothing goes better with a juicy Fontina burger or a grilled all-beef hot dog than a good basket of fries, and at Joe's Farm Grill — a Jetsons-esque eatery with its own organic farm, located in East Gilbert's Agritopia community — they've turned fry-making into an art-form. Cooked in trans-fat-free oil, Joe's standard-issue fries are crisp and light, a tribute to all that's tasty about a potato. But what really keeps us coming to this far corner of the Valley are the variations: fries smothered in homemade chili and a handful of cheddar cheese; baked potato fries done up in sour cream, cheese, chives and crumbled bacon; addicting sweet potato fries with chunky pineapple-serrano dipping sauce; and the most garlicky garlic fries the Valley's ever seen. Tossed with olive oil, herbs, and pecorino romano, these potent potatoes will keep the vampires at bay for at least a week.
Chicken wings are just an afterthought at so many restaurants, often buried in a list of run-of-the-mill starters like mozzarella sticks or fried jalapeños. That's why we head to Long Wong's when we have a real hankering for them. Here, wings are the star of the menu — no mere appetizer, but the main dish itself. The people at Long Wong's understand wings, which means they totally get why a big pile of six or 10 of these babies equals a meal to us. Fried to a golden crisp, and still moist inside, we're happy to eat 'em unadorned, but the sauces are just too good to pass up. We're keen on honey hot and garlic parmesan cheese, but we also love the classic, tangy hot sauce. Beyond mild, medium, and hot, Long Wong's bumps up the heat level another notch with addicting, deliciously brutal "suicide" sauce. If you catch us chowing down on wings at Wong's, don't worry if you see us looking a little teary-eyed. Those are tears of joy.
We knew these were our new favorite onion rings when we polished off a whole plate in a matter of minutes. Most restaurants are heavy-handed with the fried coating, which fills us up after we eat just a few. But Sonora Brewhouse does 'em differently, more like tempura than breaded bar snacks. These oversized rings are dipped in hefeweizen batter that's surprisingly light when it comes out of the fryer — puffy and moist on the inside, crisp and golden on the outside — and brings out the sweetness of the onion itself. Served with creamy homemade ranch dip, they're the perfect partner for a cold pint of pale ale. Don't be shocked if you find yourself ordering another plate when you order another round of drinks.
An antiques shopping spree in historic Glendale just doesn't feel complete without a pit stop at A Touch of European Café, a darling BYOB with a handful of tables inside and out. The hearty Polish fare is just the fuel we need when we're trawling for treasures, and reasonable menu prices satisfy our bargain-hunting urge. Fresh kielbasa, stuffed cabbage, and garlicky pork goulash often tempt us here, but we can hardly resist the pierogies, a plateful of doughy boiled dumplings pan-fried in butter. We especially like 'em filled with potato or sauerkraut, with plenty of sour cream on the side. Sure, this comfort food seems better-suited to an Eastern European winter than a Sonoran summer, but you'd be surprised at how much they hit the spot, even in August. After a long day shivering in too much air-conditioning, a steaming plate of pierogies is the best way to thaw out.
We get the urge to cross the pond whenever we see a British Airways jet flying out of Sky Harbor, but instead of splurging on a plane ticket, we usually just cruise over to George & Dragon for a taste of jolly old England. The place is buzzing with beer-fueled spirit, from the lively crowd at the bar to the focused blokes playing darts and pool. A few TVs, a rockin' jukebox, and tons of colorful banners get us in the mood to party with the expats, and a platter of fish and chips only adds to the Brit flavor. George & Dragon's version is gloriously gut-filling, with a slab o' fish that takes up half the plate. Coated in a crisp, golden batter, the firm-fleshed fish is deliciously moist. As for the chips, they're hefty and not too greasy, cut thickly enough to keep the insides fluffy. Round things off with a side of creamy coleslaw, and we're ready for a pint — or three.
We've always looked forward to a mind-boggling beer selection, hearty bar food, and the jolly, life-sized statue of a Belgian monk that awaits us at Papago Brewing. But ever since we sampled the sliders at this friendly, laid-back neighborhood brew-geek hangout, where brewery paraphernalia and beer taps serve as décor, we can hardly come up with an excuse not to visit. (Yes, we're blaming our increased alcohol consumption on a humble plate of miniburgers.) Instead of the wimpy, thin patties you get at most places, Papago Brewing makes its sliders with cuts of grilled beef that are as juicy and flavorful as steak — only smaller — and then tucks them into fresh, soft buns along with melted Swiss cheese and a generous layer of caramelized onions. They're so good that lately, we can hardly drink a pint without a plate full of these little beauties to munch on.
Few epicurean delights in the Valley are as saliva-inducing and ultimately satisfying as a pint of lager and a steaming hot pasty — Cornwall, England's culinary contribution to the world. Tempe has Cornwall native Dean Thomas to thank for being on the pasty map, and his off-the-charts success with his two-year-old Cornish Pasty Co. is a testament to Thomas' hard work and originality. With a new location in the works and near-daily offers for franchise deals, Thomas is the living embodiment of the American Dream by way of southwest England. And his ingenuity extends to the multiple varieties of these football-shaped calzone-like pastries that can be stuffed with everything from salmon with asparagus to chicken tikka masala to pork with apple and steak, and potato and rutabaga, as in the case of the traditional "oggie." Our fave pasty, though, is the bangers and mash, stuffed with chunks of housemade sage and pork sausage, mashed potatoes, and grilled onions, with a red wine gravy on the side. Comfort food at its best. For the bangers and mash alone, young Thomas deserves beatitude. Saint Thomas of Cornwall, patron saint of all pasties. And we don't mean those things strippers wear.
You knew it had to happen. After watching so many episodes of The Sopranos for all these years, we'd start hunting down the Italian delicacies they raved about on the show. Little did we know that baccala is a lot harder to come by in Arizona than in North Jersey. Well, we've finally found the good stuff: Veneto Trattoria's decadent baccala mantecato — dried, salted cod prepared Venetian-style. If you've never tried it, it's nothing like the way it sounds, neither dry nor particularly salty. Instead, the snowy white fish is slow-cooked until it falls apart, then mixed into a fluffy, creamy consistency that melts in your mouth. At Veneto, they serve it with the traditional accompaniment of grilled polenta. It makes a fine appetizer, as a prelude to housemade fettuccine or osso buco with saffron risotto, but now that we're so obsessed with baccala, we need a whole plate to ourselves. Whaddaya gonna do about it?
Dimly lit and done up in sophisticated shades of gray-blue and chocolate, with good-looking clientele lounging on plush banquettes and inviting couches, Sol y Sombra is undoubtedly one of the sexiest restaurants in town. But don't get too distracted, at least not until you've ordered dinner — the food here is just as exciting. Executive chef Aaron May and chef de cuisine Walter Sterling have crafted a dynamic, delectable menu that elevates the humble tapas dish to a miniature work of art. Everything is beautifully presented and vibrantly flavorful, from the simple, comforting Tortilla Espanola, a thick slice of potato pie drizzled with garlic aioli, to succulent slices of duck breast with shaved fennel. With a nice bottle of rioja or tempranillo from Sol y Sombra's expertly edited wine selection, you'll be geared up for a leisurely evening of sipping, grazing, and flirting with those cute strangers at the next table. The Spanish would be proud.
Despite County Attorney Andrew Thomas' failed attempt to ruin this terrific family restaurant with his P.R.-driven "Dirty Dining" campaign (the case was tossed out of court earlier this year), Ajo Al's remains a trusted standby for thousands of spice-happy Valley eaters. We like the food just fine, but it's the chicken soup that brings us back for more, and then more. It's got a bite to it, and a rather thick broth imbued with black pepper and probably more than a pinch of chili powder. The delicious chunks of white chicken meat are too big to swallow in one bite, so it becomes a three-utensil (fork, knife, and spoon) affair, and that doesn't count the mandatory tortilla or two to soak up every last drop. Really, it's a meal in itself and, as a bonus, will clear the sinuses by the time you're done.
Steve and Nancy Kashman opened the first of their two Scottsdale delis about six years ago with a simple formula for success: Build the best matzo ball soup around, and they will come. Though it's a schlep up for most of us up to north Scottsdale, we've found ourselves making the pilgrimage with greater frequency in each passing year. Thanks in large measure to a huge water tank onsite that replicates the spring water of Brooklyn, the soup has a rich, but not-too-salty broth, with freshly chopped carrots and pieces of celery, large chunks of succulent chicken meat and, last but definitely not least, the matzo balls themselves. Jews (and even gentiles) long have engaged in impassioned philosophical debate over the merits of matzo ball-making, as in should they sink or should they float? These babies tend to sink, but they're not heavy. They are fluffy, but not light. They fall apart when you cut into them with your spoon, but they don't crumble. Like manna, they are truly heaven-sent.
It takes more than creamy dressing and Romaine lettuce to make a good caesar salad, and rare is the restaurant that makes one substantial enough to eat as a meal. But come lunchtime, the memorable version at House of Tricks always satisfies. Here, it's a generous heap of fresh Romaine tossed with lightly garlicky dressing, crisp, homemade croutons, capers, kalamata olives, and shredded Parmesan, served on an enormous dinner plate. You can order it topped with grilled chicken, or even anchovies by special request, but go for the silky, pecan-smoked salmon, made in-house. The salmon alone is worth a trip to Tricks — we love to graze on an appetizer platter of the savory fish while we sip Chardonnay at the intimate outdoor bar. But added to our favorite salad, it's the best of both worlds, as light and refreshing as an appetizer, and as filling and flavorful as an entree. If only we could indulge every day.
Chef Mustafa's not telling. Tastes like eggplant? Sure, a little bit. Looks a tad like crushed tomato? Yeah, but looks can be deceiving. The spiciness must mean there are some chiles in there somewhere, right? Mustafa just smiles, and asks if you'd like another cup.
It's Chef Mustafa San's secret sauce. Of which his fans — who know the guy as a master of Middle Eastern munchies from his stints at Tempe's Efes Turkish Cuisine and now Mill Avenue's Med Fresh Grill — are quite familiar. The Anatolian edibles at Med Fresh are some of the best and least expensive of their kind in town: kebab, baklava, falafel, you name it. But we're hooked on his sauce, and slather it on everything — pita, rice, meat, everything. Crikey, we'd eat a dachshund if it was dipped in the stuff. The recipe? Mustafa's not sharing. You can guess all you want. He'll even let you take some home for further, um, analysis. But there's only one way to acquire this savory spread, at the Med Fresh Grill, and the cagey Mustafa plans to keep it that way.
Oh, so you think you're hungry, huh? Well, let's just see if you can clean your plate at TEXAZ Grill, where homey, stick-to-your-ribs chow, served in Texas-sized portions, is the tastiest way to measure a person's appetite. It's worth stopping in just for some chicken-fried steak, the hands-down house specialty. In business since 1985, this culinary shrine to the Lone Star State has dished out nearly 660,000 chicken-fried steaks so far, and that comes as no surprise. Here, they double-batter-dip the thin, tender steak, fry it 'til it's golden and lightly crunchy, and then smother it in a velvety layer of pepper-flecked cream gravy. The thing takes up nearly the entire plate, but somehow the kitchen manages to fit a heap of corn, a dense, buttery biscuit, and a generous pile of chunky mashed potatoes on there, too. Our eyes are always bigger than our stomach at TEXAZ Grill, and no, we can't clean our plate, either. But it sure is fun to try.
Roll over, sashimi. Sometimes when we're craving raw fish, we're in the mood for something more exotic than standard sushi bar offerings. When traditional makizushi (sushi rolls) won't do, we head straight for the wacky maki at Sushi Eye. The first time we set foot in this tiny Tempe temple to Japanese food, we instantly knew it was different, from the hip décor to the trance music throbbing on the stereo. Then we took one look at the mouthwatering, photo-filled menu and knew we'd come to the right place. First, the Crazy Horse roll caught our attention with tuna, salmon, yellowtail, and avocado packed into each bite. Next, we indulged in a decadent, deep-fried California roll. Finally, we succumbed to the Second Climax roll, a cucumber and spicy yellowtail maki topped with yellowtail slices, tobiko, wasabi sauce, and crushed macadamia nuts. With more than 50 variations, Sushi Eye's got the goods to satisfy us over and over again.
In other big cities, a jaunt to Chinatown helps ease the wanderlust — and quell the hunger for Chinese food — when a trip to Hong Kong just isn't in the cards. But we do things differently here. Nope, there's no Chinatown in the Valley, but there is Chandler, home to an enormous Asian population with a craving for the flavors of home. And when it comes to dim sum, China King reigns supreme. This place is no palace of old-school Chinese restaurant excess, nor is it some hard-to-find hole-in-the-wall. Instead, it's in a spacious, freestanding building that feels like a bustling banquet hall, with families seated at big, round tables while servers constantly make the rounds with their carts. With more than 50 dim sum choices, you never know what delicious dishes might be revealed in the next steamy stack of containers. Could it be shrimp har gow, so moist you can see through their translucent wrappers? How about some sticky rice, wrapped up with pork, shrimp, and fish cake in a tidy lotus leaf package? Maybe it'll be a fluffy steamed bun, filled with sweet chunks of barbecued pork, or shrimp paste fried on sugar cane stalks. Sooner or later, it'll all make its way to your table — even the chicken feet. At China King, everybody gets the royal treatment.
It's easy to be indifferent about tofu. Most of the time, soybean curd is served up as flavorless, flabby white chunks that merely absorb the tastes of other ingredients in a dish. We guilt ourselves into eating it when we're not in the mood for meat because it's light and healthful. But when do we ever crave tofu on its own? Only when we're at Fate, where chef-owner Johnny Chu's brilliant handling of the delicate substance sends us into fits of joy. Chu cuts firm tofu into wedges, fries it up until the outside is golden and crisp, and then serves it with a soy-based dipping sauce. And guess what? The flavor is just as addicting as the texture.
We happily gobble it up plain, as an appetizer, but it's equally delicious in the veggie-laden entrees. We're especially keen on the House Dynamite, Chu's spicy-sweet spin on sweet and sour, and the Cantonese Black Dragon, which comes slathered in the most mouthwatering black bean sauce in town.
We don't care how hardcore a carnivore you are — don't write off tofu until you've tasted it at Fate.
We're connoisseurs of peanut sauce, and lately our obsession has taken us many times to Tempe, where the friendly staff at Lemon Grass Thai have perfected the most heavenly version yet. We're keen on the sizzling beef, a house specialty that sounds quite simple (tender slices of beef, served up on a searing-hot platter, with spinach, cucumbers, and slivered almonds) but that is truly beguiling. Slathered in luscious peanut sauce that's creamy and complex — definitely more than just thinned-out peanut butter — the beef tastes out of this world. Satay chicken comes with the same standout peanut concoction, and you can get a side order of the sauce as well. Seriously, we could dunk everything in that and call it a good meal.
We love to sip, slurp, and suck down noodles as often as possible, no matter if they're cold or hot, or from Italy or China. Luckily, instead of gallivanting around town to satisfy our need for novelty, we need only to roll into Cherryblossom for our fix. At this homey, friendly little Japanese eatery, the menu spans the noodle-making universe, with several Italian specialties and dishes from elsewhere in Asia. That means they make surprisingly addicting chicken parmesan with spaghetti, and deliciously fiery Korean beef with egg noodles, in addition to Japanese favorites, from stir-fried yakisoba to chilled hiyashi chukka to udon, soba, and ramen with a variety of toppings. It's like they know exactly what we're hungry for, even before we do.
Who goes out for potato salad these days? Isn't that picnic food, something you can make at home? Well, yeah — except when it's Sabuddy's awesome Russian potato salad, a far cry from the mild-mannered stuff you'll find at the grocery store deli or in mom's fridge. Here, it's chunky, chock full of ingredients, and deliciously zingy, combining tender potatoes, chopped hard-boiled eggs, sweet peas, cubed carrots, and tangy Israeli pickles. The delicious jumble of vegetables is tossed in creamy mayonnaise and brightened with just enough lemon juice to make it downright refreshing. It tastes good with everything else on the menu, from juicy grilled shishlik to hot, crisp falafel. We'd normally eat just a few bites of regular potato salad, but we can't get enough of Sabuddy's stand-out version.
Where's Mary's little lamb? We feel a little sheepish telling you we know exactly where, after another wonderful meal at the Middle Eastern Bakery. This Valley staple cooks up wonderful Lebanese chicken and a mean ball of falafel, but our favorite dish is the lamb kebab. Spiced just right with a hint of cinnamon, prepared perfectly, it's served with a side of tender rice, Greek salad and a piece of fresh-baked pita. We can't resist, we gotta say it: This is one place we're sure to go.
How is it that some of the world's strangest-looking critters happen to be some of the tastiest, too? Because on looks alone, alligators seem like they'd be about as tough to eat as an old lady's handbag. In truth, gator meat is surprisingly delicious — tender, mild white flesh that's as juicy as chicken after a good dunk in the deep-fryer. Of course, you'd never know it, seeing how hardly anybody serves it in these parts, although there is one place where we're sure to find it: Twisted. Chef-owner Carlos Manriquez — the globe-trotting culinary adventurer behind Atlas Bistro (just a few doors down, in the same Scottsdale strip mall) and Tempe's Mucho Gusto Taqueria — serves his golden, batter-dipped alligator bites with cornmeal-crusted calamari, butternut aioli, Cajun remoulade, and curry-pickled Asian pear. A friend had to twist our arm to taste it at first, but we're glad we took the leap of faith. Now we're the ones daring newbies to try it. Aw, c'mon — you'll like it!
Leave it to the Japanese to come up with yet another clever, interactive way to cook your own food with friends: Ishiyaki, which uses a smooth, superheated black river stone for sizzling up delicate slices of raw meat. The folks behind Taneko aren't Japanese — no doubt you're already familiar with their other restaurants, P.F. Chang's and Pei Wei — but they've embraced ishiyaki as a house specialty at their newest venture, which was inspired by Japan's ubiquitous izakaya (pubs). Here, they call it Hot Rock, but the idea's the same. They bring said rock to the table in a dish full of salt, which isn't affected by the heat. (Don't even think of touching it, lest you're ready turn your fingertips into tataki.) Next comes a platter of raw American Kobe beef, cut into perfect bite-sized pieces. Drop one onto the rock, watch it quickly cook, and then dip it into a garlicky, gingery sauce made with ponzu (a tart Asian citrus fruit). It's juicy, flavorful, and downright fun. But beware — if you overcook your pricey piece of meat, you only have yourself to blame.
We're convinced that Arcadia's premium real estate values have something to do with the cachet of La Grande Orange. After all, who wouldn't want to live near this place? It's that perfect corner cafe we've always dreamed of, where we can settle in with the New York Times and a latte at a table in front, or bring along a friend for salads on the shady patio and some chit-chat about the eye candy all around us. (As you might've guessed, there's no way we'd stop by on a bad hair day.) The grocery selection is more about gourmet treats than pantry staples, but whenever we're at LGO, imported cheeses, fancy crackers, and squid ink pasta suddenly seem essential. It's supposed to be dangerous to shop on an empty stomach, but even after we fill up on a tuna melt or a Tammie Coe Ooey Gooey cupcake, we can't help it when we fill our shopping basket with impulse buys. For one thing, there's the wine aisle, stocked from floor to ceiling with boutique-y labels. And then there are all the inedible must-haves, like stationery, magazines, and upscale pet toys. We want it all, we want it bad, and we know we're not alone in wishing LGO was in every 'hood. You'd be surprised at how many miles your fellow shoppers drove just to "drop by" this casual hot spot.
BEST INDEPENDENT RESTAURANT WE'RE GLAD IS A CHAIN
Wildflower Bread Company
It's always weird when a favorite local spot suddenly goes global. We like to support independent businesses. Does that mean that now that Wildflower has locations all over town, we should stop going? No way, we say! It just means we can find one most anywhere we happen to be. We love the variety of fresh bread at this little cafe (have you tried the soft pretzels?), and the salads are always super-fresh. On a recent visit, we were particularly impressed by the fact that although it was a busy Sunday morning, the guy who took our order at the counter was more than happy to accommodate all of our odd requests (which included eliminating certain vegetables from one dish, adding fruit to another, and making the whole damn thing fat-free). That's the kind of service we expect from a small guy, and we're glad to see Wildflower still providing it, even as business booms. Or should we say blooms?
Do you ever wonder what the Valley used to be like before it was a sprawling web of highways and strip malls? Head to Lon's, the fine-dining establishment at the Hermosa Inn, to get a taste of tranquility in the great outdoors. The elegant adobe dining room, part of the historic hacienda that once belonged to artist Lon Megargee, is a lovely place to visit year-round, but right around the time you start bragging about how you don't have to shovel sunshine, the patio's the best place to enjoy executive chef Michael Rusconi's rustic American cuisine. Pepper-crusted pork tenderloin with prickly pear braised cabbage, and wood-grilled buffalo strip steak are just a couple of the outstanding options. Surrounded by trees and gorgeous landscaping, with Camelback Mountain in the distance, Lon's outdoor seating area is relaxing and romantic, with the warm, enticing aroma of mesquite wafting from a nearby chiminea. Around sunset, when all the candles are lit, it's the most magical place to experience the desert scenery.
Let's face it: You won't be fooled into thinking you're back in Chicago just from the looks of Luke's. Sure, there's plenty of nostalgia in the place, from the panorama photo of the downtown skyline on the back wall to the old bus stop signs and pictures of Windy City sports heroes hung behind the counter. But just outside the window, the intersection of 16th Street and Indian School would be hard to mistake for the Magnificent Mile. As for the menu, though, it's the real deal — just close your eyes and taste. And stopping by this no-frills shop is definitely an easier (and cheaper) way to satisfy a craving than hopping a flight to O'Hare. Hefty subs, fat meatball sandwiches, juicy bratwurst and Italian sausages are just a few of the highlights. Luke's does a great Chicago-style hot dog (get "The Works," a sloppy delight with ketchup, mustard, onions, tomatoes, hot peppers, pickles, green peppers, and celery salt), and their Italian beef has a cult following. Stuffed into a huge sub roll soaked with beefy juices, and topped with plump, sweet peppers and melted provolone cheese, the thinly sliced meat is tender, full of flavor, and totally irresistible — even if you're not a Chicago native.
There are plenty of fine tables around the dining room at Tarbell's, but we come here just for the fun of eating rock shrimp ceviche or Scotch beef sliders at the bar. It's a long, lovely swoop of glossy blond wood, the perfect vantage point for the bustling, open kitchen. Service at Tarbell's is friendly and attentive (our wine glass never goes empty when we're perched on one of the streamlined bar chairs), no doubt inspired by personable chef-owner Mark Tarbell's example. Sooner or later, we inevitably get a visit from him, and no, we're not all that special — he makes everybody feel like a million bucks. Since Tarbell's appearance on The Food Network's Iron Chef America earlier this month, we're worried that we'll have a hard time getting in here, kind of like when Oprah turned the nation's attention to Pizzeria Bianco. But that's okay. While Tarbell basks in the attention, we're happy to stake out our rightful place at the bar.
We're not exactly sure when it started, but cute eateries setting up shop in old homes is a full-on phenomenon in central Phoenix. Coronado Café, Lisa G Wine Bar, Fate, Cibo, The Roosevelt Tavern — they're all unique spots made even more appealing by the charming structures that house them. The latest to join in on this downtown trend is Palatte, a new breakfast and lunch destination that opened this summer in the William E. Cavness house. Constructed in 1914, the historically designated building has been beautifully maintained, such a rarity in a city where old and quirky places don't often avoid the wrecking ball. Whether we're feasting on scrambled eggs and griddle cakes in what we imagine is the old living room, or nibbling on a tart out on the patio, we can't help but think that spots like this are the perfect antidote to strip mall fatigue.
For über-foodies turned on by menus with highly unusual combinations of exotic ingredients, Kai is a gourmet mecca. Executive chef Michael O'Dowd and chef de cuisine Jack Strong masterfully combine familiar haute cuisine elements like foie gras, fennel pollen, and lobster tail with things you've probably never eaten, or even heard of — cholla buds, huitlacoche mojo, toasted saguaro seeds, and nopalitos are just a few of the ingredients that'll fire up your imagination (or maybe make you wish you'd brought a dictionary). Indeed, the descriptions of each dish can veer into the esoteric, but, rest assured, it's all delicious. Tres Pescado Ceviche — presented with a flourish of mesquite smoke — makes a memorable appetizer, and juicy grilled buffalo tenderloin with smoked corn purée is just one of the inventive, Native American-inspired entrees. Even the cocktail menu plays with the concept, from the spicy, lemony Skocu Thu (with ancho chile) to the fragrant mesquite bean martini. By the end of the meal, desserts like Mexican chocolate soufflé with wattleseed crme anglaise hit the sweet spot between high-concept and primal satisfaction. A few bites into it, when your foodie friends sigh softly and get a faraway look in their eyes, take it as a sign of approval.
These days, hardly a restaurant opens up without some fanfare about its local organic produce or seasonal dishes. That's great and all — the more the merrier, when it comes to sourcing great ingredients — but still, we know a trend when we see it.
At Quiessence, though, they don't just talk the talk. They walk the walk every single day, when chef de cuisine Greg LaPrad and sous chef Anthony Andiario put their heads together and come up with a new menu that makes the best use of the freshest produce, seafood, and meats. That means organic vegetables grown right next door, at Maya's at the Farm, meats from local herdsmen, and other ingredients from Phoenix purveyors. Both LaPrad and Andiario have spent time working in Italy, where the Slow Food Movement was founded, so they're huge believers in the philosophy behind the food. On any given day, the menu might feature braised pork tenderloin with roasted peppers and wilted mizuna; buckwheat tagliatelle with duck confit, fava beans and sage; or pan-seared sole with shrimp, baby fennel, and sweet potatoes. More likely, you won't find any of the above due to the truly seasonal menu, but you get the picture. Housemade charcuterie, pâtés, and salads are ever-changing as well.
The beautiful thing about Quiessence, aside from the pastoral setting, is how it never gets old. We can't think of anywhere else in Phoenix where repeat visits are such a pleasure.
Wanna score major brownie points with Mom? Don't bother tattooing her name on your arm. Instead, take her out for dinner and dancing at Skye. This high-end, high-profile addition to the West Side dining scene — a cross between swanky supper club and disco inferno — attracts hungry patrons of all ages. But take one look around and it's pretty obvious: Baby boomers rule the roost. In the spacious main dining room, there's almost always a live band or solo artist performing Top 40 songs from Mom's heyday, and the decent-sized dance floor can get pretty lively when it's time to do the Electric Slide. Check out the scene as you settle into a cozy booth, and then listen to Mom ooh and aah over the menu. Executive chef Scott Tompkins' contemporary American fare includes classic appetizers such as shrimp cocktail and fried calamari, a fine selection of prime steaks, fresh seafood dishes, and specialties like succulent veal scallopine and juicy, pan-seared pork chops with sage and prosciutto cream sauce. And don't forget to order a round of cocktails — there's no better way to make Mom feel like a carefree dancing queen again.
Grandma won't dig the edgy places young whipper-snappers like you usually frequent, and she probably won't be into the boomer-centric spots where you take Mom for a night out. Nope, she wants to dine on her terms — someplace elegant, someplace old school (your words, not hers), and preferably someplace French. Good thing there's Voltaire, a classic French restaurant that has a timeless, genteel atmosphere, polite (but not pretentious) service, and meticulously prepared cuisine. And although it attracts a well-heeled, older crowd — which will make Grandma feel right at home — we're pretty sure that outstanding onion soup (made with veal stock), tender steak au poivre, and crepes Suzette, flambéed tableside, will appeal to foodies of all generations. Sure, Grandma will love it, but so will you. Might as well bring Mom along for brownie points.
Small-town transplants and big-city East Coasters with a jones for a basic, cheap eatery serving heaping plates of food should hightail it down to Mel's Diner. The old-school establishment, located along an industrial strip of Grand Avenue, serves super-tasty breakfast all day and choice burgers and chicken-fried cuisine in the afternoons.
And a healthy dose of nostalgia, if the '70s and '80s count.
The opening credits and choice inside scenes for Alice — the successful sitcom that ran from 1976 to 1985, chronicling a Hollywood hopeful forced to take a waitress job at a diner after her car breaks down in Phoenix — were filmed inside Mel's.
The spot retains that no-nonsense charm, complete with a Mel Sharples-type character in the form of foul-mouthed Frank, a busboy who will begrudgingly pour you bottomless cups of coffee. Just don't smile too much because he'll wipe that grin right off with a verbal slap across the piehole.
BEST THANKSGIVING DAY ESCAPE
Thanksgiving Day Buffet at Wrigley Mansion
Unless you're John-Boy Walton or Martha Stewart — or a glutton for emotional punishment — you're probably ambivalent about Thanksgiving. There's that enforced familial interaction (blah) and the infernal "dead turkey clock" that keeps ticking off the passing years. For example, if you've only eaten 10 birds, you're probably safe for a while longer — yet there's that yawning eternity of Thanksgivings looming ahead. If you're 75, you're reached the downhill slope of the turkey hump, but the Grim Reaper is sharpening his scythe.
Death by gobbler is gonna get you either way, so why not go out in style? The Wrigley's annual Thanksgiving feast is style personified. Get a load of these offerings from last year's menu: baby lamb chops with a mint glaze and grilled salmon with a roasted red pepper coulis. Even the turkey — slathered with cranberry chutney — is life-affirming. What price mental health? A mere $27.50 to $55, which we'd consider cheap at twice the price.
BEST PLACE TO CELEBRATE THE SMOKING BAN
Richardson's Cuisine of New Mexico
Now that you can't smoke in bars anymore, you can actually taste the food at Richardson's. Honestly, we're pretty sure it was always kick-ass, but up until this smoking ban thing kicked in, the closer you got to the bar, the more your enchiladas had to compete with the smell of ashtray. Richardson's drew a hard-smokin', hard-partyin' crowd whose heyday was the mid-'80s and usually looked like they stepped out of an episode of The Rockford Files. Nothing wrong with that, of course, unless you're not as inured to cancer-wand discharge as the Saturday Night Fever set. Because smokers now have to take it outside, the air is clean, save for the vague aroma of Hai Karate from the 50-something next to you. And your palate is finally free from the ravages of secondhand Pall Malls. So, thanks to government fiat, Richardson Browne's New Mexico-styled nook is the coolest place to eat at the bar in the PHX, not to mention drink. And if there happens to be an urban cougar on the prowl nearby, you'll actually be able to see her MILF-y, saline-enhanced, fortysomething curves, without having to strain through the fog of countless lit coffin nails.
Consider us impressed. We always thought that kids and a nice meal were like water and oil, but somehow Madelyn's has managed to pull off a classy restaurant where kids are graciously accommodated, but where grown-ups can still enjoy a sophisticated night out, feasting on chef-owner Brian Ford's contemporary American cuisine, including Zinfandel-braised beef short ribs and herbed pappardelle pasta. Make no mistake — this is an upscale neighborhood bistro not especially geared toward children. Still, each time we've been here, we noticed a few families seated amid the otherwise adult-filled dining room, which makes sense in the family-friendly enclave of Anthem. Props go to the parents of those well-behaved youngsters, but also to the thoughtful waitstaff, who managed to make even the littlest patrons feel welcome.
Truth be told, we don't always take the time for the most important meal of the day. But when we need to gear up for a busy day at work, fortify ourselves for a road trip, or just cheer ourselves up with a sweet stack of griddlecakes, we head straight to Matt's Big Breakfast.
This tiny, sunny diner's a downtown icon, and not just because of its orange counters or sassy retro décor. Here, the coffee's always strong, the juice is straight-outta-the-orange, and the thick bacon strips — from The Pork Shop in Queen Creek — are the best we've ever had.
Whether we go with the salami scramble, a fluffy Belgian-style waffle, or a fat omelet stuffed with roasted red peppers and aged provolone, Matt's hearty eats gear us up to take on the world.
Fabulous rustic pizzas may be Cibo's biggest claim to fame, but don't expect to order a pie at lunch. Instead, stop by for colorful salads — like organic greens with pine nuts, tomatoes, roasted potatoes, pesto dressing, and shaved Parmesan — or one of the big sandwiches made on warm, crusty saltimbocca loaves fresh out of the wood-fired oven. The caprese, filled with fresh mozzarella, always hits the spot, but we love the refreshing, basil-and-mint-tinged tuna salad, too. Meanwhile, the charming, relaxing setting is a bonus. Situated in a beautifully restored historic house with a shady patio out front, Cibo is our favorite antidote to workday stress.
BEST LUNCHTIME ESCAPE
The Farm Kitchen, at The Farm at South Mountain
Dorothy, we're not in Phoenix anymore. Or are we? Eating lunch at The Farm Kitchen sure feels like a foodie field trip to the countryside, but really, it isn't that far from downtown. Step through the rustic wooden gate, onto a flower-filled cobblestone patio, and you'll soon forget about highways and high-rises and the frantic city pace. Inside the little house on the premises, take your pick from a huge list of healthful lunch stuff, like gourmet sandwiches and salads, as well as wholesome, homemade cookies, pies, and cobblers. Then head outside to find a picnic table and sip a fresh-squeezed lemonade in the shade of leafy pecan trees. Yeah, you'll probably hear some birds chirping and bees buzzing as a butterfly lands on your table, and then you may really wonder whether you're dreaming all this up. At that point, feel free to pinch yourself.
Who wouldn't like to be in the know about a charming hideaway for a great meal? Fuego Bistro is just the kind of spot that'll make you seem so savvy to your friends — but first, you have to find it. We're not saying it's far away or anything. It's actually quite centrally located, just a little bit south of Bethany Home and a smidgen east of Seventh Street. However, you won't stumble on this place with any amount of driving. Trust us. It's actually tucked into the small courtyard at Fountain Court Plaza. Once you realize where it is, you'll never be able to drive past Apollo's, the hard-to-miss neighborhood bar, without being tempted by the eatery in the inconspicuous building right behind it. Anyway, consider the effort a treasure hunt, because the food at Fuego is delicious, an assortment of Cuban, Guatemalan, and Puerto Rican-inspired dishes with a Southwestern spin. Succulent pernil asado (marinated, slow-roasted pork) and spicy camarones de Patron (plump, blackened prawns cooked in tequila and slathered in cilantro-tomatillo sauce) are just a couple of the reasons to Mapquest this place. Or better yet, just check out the Web site.
Finally, a place that indulges our inner foodie and lets us slack in the kitchen on those days when it's just too damn hot to cook. (You know, about six months out of the year.) Thanks to the sprawling grab-and-go area at Dish — an over-the-top new Scottsdale eatery that's like a deli on steroids — the à la carte food selection at our local grocery store now looks painfully inadequate. Why suffer through the same old rotisserie chicken and coleslaw when you can pick up a fat slice of lasagna, some barbecued brisket, perhaps a big baked sweet potato with herbed butter, and (what the heck) a few cupcakes, too? The offerings here are mind-boggling, meaning we'll never get bored. And the food's so tasty that we're tempted to pass it off as home cooking for our next dinner party. (Shh — that'll be our little secret.)
This longtime Tempe outpost of healthful and hip has exploded recently, with locations all over the East Valley. Now, you don't need to be a grungy ASU skateboarder to appreciate a combo chicken platter or a side of hummus. The grilled vegetable salad at Pita Jungle is a wonder to behold, and about as healthful as a decadent meal can get — and with an understandably long wait at the restaurants, we like to go the take-out route (we're big fans of P.J.'s whimsical Web site, too). Sure beats a pizza, both for taste and nutrition. We like to slather it — and anything else we can find — with Pita Jungle's addicting garlic dip.
We never gave much thought to the fine-dining restaurant at the Arizona Biltmore, but a year ago, after it was renovated and reopened as "Wright's at the Biltmore," we took notice. Along with the fresh new digs — moody lighting and Art Deco-inspired décor create visual drama in the elegant dining room — the menu got an overhaul as well. Executive chef Michael Cairns and chef de cuisine Matt Alleshouse call their concept "American Lodge Cuisine," which revels in boutique ingredients and exquisite preparations of hearty meats like aged buffalo loin (with creamy arugula and rosemary jus), beef tenderloin (in a sweet onion and blue cheese crust), and Colorado lamb (with a rich chickpea ragout). They even have seared red trout, done up with chardonnay butter and caviar. For dessert, the kitchen turns out heavenly soufflés with crme anglaise. Nope, you won't have to worry about roughing it at this lodge.
The food court at Fashion Square is good for a quick, cheap bite when our blood sugar plummets from too much power shopping. But sometimes, we'd much rather walk a little farther (just beyond the Nordstrom parking garage) and spend a little (or a lot) more for a chi-chi meal at the stylish Olive & Ivy. The bustling, see-and-be-seen atmosphere is pure entertainment, a slice of European-style cafe culture amid the man-made, only-in-the-desert, canal-side complex called the Scottsdale Waterfront. No offense to the pizza and cheese steak purveyors at the mall — we've eaten at those places plenty of times — but if we get a chance to dine on roasted garlic, tomato and pesto flatbread, housemade tagliatelle, or sweet potato agnolotti with Mandarin glaze, we're gonna pounce on it like a crazed shopper at a clearance sale.
Looking for a place to hang with your girlfriends besides the local bar? The sweetest deal in town for gettin' your drink on and making your fingertips look fabulous happens every Monday, at Furio's Martinis and Manicures night. It's only ten bucks for a cocktail and a fresh coat of polish. But let's face it — you'll probably want more than one drink, and hunger's bound to strike, too. Good thing Furio's executive chef, Jagger Griffin, has you covered. Happy hour specials include bargain-priced booze and tasty, wallet-friendly eats, such as grilled focaccia with dipping sauces, and a marinated flank steak sammy with brie and pesto. Or, if a leisurely dinner suits you more, settle into the swanky dining room and fill up on Italian-inspired dishes such as basil fettuccine with shrimp, pine nuts, and sun-dried tomatoes, or black truffle gnocchi with butter-poached lobster. Take a look at the wine list as well — but make sure you can wean your friends off those martinis first.
Call us alcoholics, but we're rarely ready to get to know someone new without a little liquid courage. On the other hand, when we're bothering to go on a first date, we want it to feel romantic and fraught with possibility. The Rokerij, Richardson Browne's snazzy restaurant just off Bethany Home Road, takes care of both problems. The upstairs is newly remodeled and now looks as smart as any place in town, but it's still dark enough to keep things dreamy. And downstairs, the couches in front of the fireplace are the perfect place for a nightcap — or any one of the Rokerij's excellent small plates, should you be unwilling to commit to dinner until you know your date a little better. The service is great. And if conversation flags, there's always a game on TV just behind the bar.
Our idea of a good night on the town does involve dinner and dancing, but we'd rather do the eating and leave the grooving to someone else. That's why we love to grab a table at Efes Turkish Cuisine on a Saturday night and enjoy the music while several of the best belly dancers in town shake it all. The menu's as authentic as the dancing, and as long as you keep stuffing your mouth, the dancers won't try to lure you onto the floor.
Maybe it's the case of gelato, or the soft blue and brown-hued décor, or the wall of computers in front of bar stools available for free Internet access. Or maybe it's just because we were so happy to see a new dining establishment open near the Mesa Arts Center. Whatever it was, let us tell you, this place offers one posh nosh — including lunch served on a silver platter. (Really!) The menu includes sandwiches, salads, soups, and decadent desserts. Soon, Posh Nosh will have a liquor license and dinner service, they say. We'll save a spot for them in next year's BOP, under "Best Nosh After The Show."
It's tricky enough to get the gang together for a night on the town, but it's even harder to get everyone to agree on somewhere to go for a bite after taking in a performance or an art opening. Luckily, Union Wine Bar & Grill is about as versatile a place as you'll find. Your foodie friends will dig tasty offerings like slow-roasted pork with apple-cabbage slaw, not to mention the restaurant's pedigree (it's run by Chrysa Robertson and Tom Kaufman of Rancho Pinot fame). Meanwhile, the picky people in your group will appreciate the variety of shareable small plates, satisfying as a snack or easily assembled into a full meal. As for the drinkers, well, they can settle in with a beer, a specialty cocktail, or something from the primo wine list. Five- and eight-ounce pours make it easy to have an impromptu tasting, perfect for post-show conversation. And when it comes to location, Union can't be beat — it's just a stone's throw from Scottsdale Center for the Arts and Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art.
Of course, everyone knows the PHX as the city that never sleeps. Er, at least 9-to-5, Monday through Friday. But, not unlike someone pulling the hair off an old hippie, we're improving our nighthawkishness, albeit one friggin' strand at a time. And the man you can thank for that is restaurateur Lenny Rosenberg, the guy who made sushi-'til-midnight the motto at Zen 32, which shares the same shopping center at the northwest corner of 32nd and Camelback as his other late-night bitery, delux. The open-'til-2 a.m. spot boasts a sleek, L.A. design, a gazillion beers on tap, hot servers of both sexes, and two of the best burgers in town, the Standard Classic and the delux burger. The former's a straight-up hunk of grilled, premium beef on a brioche bun, with lettuce, tomato and onions; and the latter's served on a demi-baguette, with a mix of Maytag blue and Gruyre, and topped with caramelized onions and applewood-smoked bacon. Either way you go, a hopper of sweet-potato fries is recommended. Best of all, you can nosh 'em past midnight, with the sort of swank, good-lookin' crowd that'll make you think you died and woke up in Santa Monica.
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