Giovanni Scorzo doesn't have time for your bullshit. He hasn't for the past 35 years. The oft-cantankerous teddy bear in disguise who runs this family-style market and trattoria is obsessed with doing Italian food the right way, and if you don't like it, you're wrong, and he'll just keep on doing it the right way until you eventually figure that out. What he won't do is dumb down his food to suit Americans' misconceptions, which is precisely why Andreoli remains such a treasure. Whatever Scorzo and his family can make fresh, they make fresh, from the bread to the charcuterie to the pastries. Whatever they can't, they purchase at great expense from quality suppliers, giving them the necessary raw materials to make their minimal ingredient-focused Italian cuisine sing. The permanent slate of sandwiches and salads is a treat, but the heart of the operation is a tiny white markerboard behind the counter that lists the daily specials. Try anything. All of it is perfect. And stuff yourself with some stellar sweets and an espresso before waddling out the door.