When crafting his dishes, chef Ivan Jacobo constantly ponders ways to give them a unique spin.
The fine-dining chef opened Flour & Thyme, a more casual concept, in downtown Phoenix at the end of December. The restaurant made its debut on the ground floor of the Orpheum Lofts, and its Bluefin Tuna au Poivre is the epitome of what Jacobo is aiming to accomplish.
The entree is Jacobo’s twist on the iconic French staple, steak au poivre. The peppercorn-crusted technique is his favorite steak preparation. At his new restaurant, Jacobo switches beef for bluefin.
“I wanted to do something different than what everyone else is doing. How can I intensify the flavor so it’s more like a steak?” Jacobo wondered.
His vision incorporated using the onsite dry-age fridge. After a lengthy trial-and-error process, Jacobo determined that the loin of the bluefin from his specialty seafood purveyor worked best and held up to the dry-aging process.
Jacobo cuts a slice of bluefin tuna loin that's been in his dry-age fridge for 30 days.
Georgann Yara
Through dry aging, the tuna loses much of its water and becomes more dense while retaining its oils. When Jacobo's tongs lift seared pieces off the grill and place them gently on the cutting board, the tender fish begins to fall apart.
After slicing, the bluefin is served on a sunchoke puree. Jacobo roasts the root vegetable until golden and then slowly cooks it in milk. When it’s just soft enough, he removes it from the milk and blends it.
This is the same process used for the restaurant’s carrot and cauliflower purees, none of which are blended with their cooking liquids.
“That’s what produces a smooth and silky puree,” Jacobo says.
Next, a green onion salad with minced radishes and chives is gently placed on top of the bluefin. The salad is lightly dressed with a fresh squeeze of juice from a charred lemon and olive oil. The salad brings a crunchy texture and freshness to the plate.
“I added the green onion salad to balance out all the strong flavors from the dish,” Jacobo says.
For the finishing touch, the peppercorn sauce is poured tableside.
An 8-ounce piece of dry-aged bluefin tuna gets seared on the wood-fired grill at Flour & Thyme.
Georgann Yara
The mixture is strained and more fresh green peppercorns are added for a hint of fresh pepper zing.
“It’s one of those dishes for foodies because you never see dry-aged seafood anywhere,” Jacobo says. “Any steak lover that is not into fish isn’t going to like it. But if you like fish, this is such a different way to eat it.”
Boasting a steak-like profile with a hint of smoke thanks to dry aging and wood firing, the seared tuna and sunchoke puree is a creative take on steak and potatoes.
Flour & Thyme opened in late December in downtown Phoenix's Orpheum Lofts. It replaces Jacobo's fine dining restaurant Anhelo.
Georgann Yara
Welcoming concept draws diners
Fans of Jacobo's will recognize Flour & Thyme's home as the space formerly occupied by the chef's fine dining restaurant Anhelo. The restaurant is on the move, and is slated to open in Old Town Scottsdale this spring. More relaxed than Anhelo, Flour & Thyme exudes elegance but features more approachable details, like natural stone tables sans white linen tablecloths, structured yet comfortable off-white seating and a warm color palette dominated by an earthy shade of green.
In the relatively short time Flour & Thyme has been open, Jacobo has already tweaked the menu a few times according to customer feedback. Foie gras and raw bar plates lead the way for hearty land and sea-focused entrees and handmade pastas. There’s also a seven-course chef’s tasting menu for anyone nostalgic for a taste of Anhelo’s format.
The fact that Flour & Thyme’s menu is a la carte makes it easier to order a dish without flinching at the price or committing to the two-hour seating of a lengthy tasting menu. Already, Jacobo has seen the impact of his more casual establishment and says Flour & Thyme’s walk-in numbers have tripled over Anhelo’s. He also sees more families who feel invited rather than intimidated.
Since Anhelo launched in 2021, Jacobo only saw one child, when two regulars brought in their newborn. When the child started crying, one of Jacobo’s managers picked up the baby and rocked them back to sleep. At Flour & Thyme, there is no kids' menu, but Jacobo offers kid-friendly pastas and plates.
“We’re family-oriented so being able to see walk-ins come into the restaurant, bring their kids and enjoy themselves, that’s the greatest thing,” says Jacobo, who has a 4-year-old daughter.
At Flour & Thyme, Jacobo’s focus on high-quality ingredients is rivaled by a dedication to making each guest feel special and welcomed.
“When the restaurant is packed, it gives you such a good feeling,” Jacobo says. “It still gives you that high-end feel but it so much more approachable.”
