Perched high on a hill overlooking the wine-centric town, the new space is the most extravagant, if slightly imposing, tasting room in the area. Owned by the frontman of bands Tool, Puscifer and A Perfect Circle, the new concept is sure to be a draw.
At the ribbon-cutting ceremony, Cottonwood Mayor Tim Elinski and members of the town council thanked Keenan for his commitment to the project and to Arizona wine as a whole. Keenan, however, said nothing. With a quick clip of the oversized scissors, which Keenan dramatically mimed returning to his belt, the deed was done.
The Merkin Vineyards Hilltop Winery & Trattoria and the Caduceus Cellars Hilltop Facility are now open. A grand opening celebration is planned for Oct. 6.
The project, according to a news release, is the culmination of 20 years of work.
“In the many years I’ve been working toward this moment, one of the things I discovered when it comes to bridging the hurdle of exposing people to Arizona wine is context,” Keenan said in the release. “So by putting a place like this in the middle of Cottonwood with 5 acres of vines, to winery facilities with a full greenhouse, and a full kitchen, all the context becomes visible, and you kind of break down the barriers of whatever preconceptions you have of Arizona wines.”
Maynard James Keenan of Tool performing on Friday, Jan. 21, 2022, at Footprint Center in downtown Phoenix. The rock star is a champion of Arizona wine.
Jim Louvau
How a rock star became a winemaker
The new venture certainly elevates, both literally and physically, the concept of wine tasting in Cottonwood. And the quaint town filled with cozy tasting rooms gets a jolt of star power. But how did Keenan go from filling music venues to filling bottles?Born in Ohio and raised in western Michigan, Keenan fostered his connection to agriculture by working at local farms and orchards. But his interest in growing and harvesting grapes was sparked long before that by his great-grandfather, who made wine in northern Italy.
Keenan moved to Jerome in 1995, and roughly a decade later, he started Merkin Vineyards and Caduceus Cellars. Over the years, the winery has produced award-winning libations and added multiple tasting rooms, including one in Old Town Scottsdale. The Merkin Vineyards Tasting Room & Osteria on Main Street in Cottonwood has closed following the opening of the new complex on the hill.
What to expect at the new winery
There's no question that someone with a flair for performance owns the new space. As such, the theatrics start at the bottom of the hill. To reach the top, you can take a lengthy flight of stairs upward, or you can skip the hike and opt to ride in the funicular, a little tram car that sweeps customers up 50 feet and delivers them to the restaurant's massive patio. Tokens for the tram cost $2, or the ride is free when you buy a scoop of gelato from the shipping container shop at the bottom.The hilltop construction is a multi-concept space with multiple buildings. The tram drops off guests on the patio of the Merkin Vineyards Hilltop Winery & Trattoria. To reach the front desk of the restaurant, take a quick jaunt past the barrel room filled with six custom concrete fermentation and aging cubes and the wine shop brimming with sparkling back-lit bottles, and find a spot to sit. Booths and tables fill the high-ceilinged restaurant, stools surround an indoor-outdoor bar, and tables dot the large patio shaded by fabric sails.
A second, smaller building is the Caduceus Cellars Hilltop Facility. It is home to more winemaking equipment along with a greenhouse that grows ingredients for the restaurant. Surrounding the compound are 4.5 acres of vines growing graciano, tempranillo and garnacha grapes.
What's on the menu?
The restaurant, led by chef Chris Smith, focuses on Italian food designed to pair with wine.There are, of course, meat and cheese boards for snacking, as well as freshly baked breads and salads made with vegetables grown in the on-site greenhouse. The lighter side of the pasta offerings includes Lasagna Cupcakes, individual servings of lasagna made with duck egg pasta layered into small cup-sized molds. The plated pasta dishes stick mainly to crowd pleasers, such as cacio e pepe, mac and cheese, and shells with pesto, goat cheese and ricotta.
Fresh pizzas feature creative names such as the Crucifixen, which is topped with kale, cauliflower and smoked mozzarella, and the Prickly Pollo, a pie made with chicken and prickly pear barbecue sauce. The pizzas are fired in a brick oven that's visible through windows at the back of the dining room that offer a peek into the kitchen.
The wine list is split into whites, roses, reds and tasting flights. Wines are served in taster sizes, by the glass or by the bottle, and each selection on the menu includes details about where in Arizona the grapes were grown. Some wine descriptions even include quips; for example, The Diddler red, is said to have a "rich seductive palate suitable for hanky panky."
Spirits, cocktails, Arizona craft beer and sake also are available.
Keenan's flair for the dramatic makes its way throughout what the menu describes as a "100% Arizona experience."
From high above the town of Cottonwood, looking out over the red rocks of Sedona that poke up in the distance, the drama of the landscape gives gravitas to the experience. As customers sip Keenan's wines, they drink in the essence of Arizona. Just don't expect the experience to be the same on each visit.
"Mother Nature beats the drum to which we march and jump," the menu explains. "So our menu remains flexible and changes weekly or even daily depending on her whims. It’s a challenge and journey we gladly embrace, and we sincerely hope you join us in our quest."
Merkin Vineyards Hilltop Winery & Trattoria and Caduceus Cellars Hilltop Facility
Grand Opening Celebration: Oct. 6 760 N. Verde Heights Drive, Cottonwood
