Marisco Boys is the grown-up, sophisticated sibling of the local casual taco chain Taco Boys. But this upscale eatery still knows how to have some fun.
The new spot opened in April on Seventh Street in the former home of Coco's Bakery. The previous restaurant's homely decor, fabric booths and hash browns have been swapped out for sleek new fittings and food.
Brown leather booths line the windows. Blue velvet chairs surround tables and matching stools are lined up along the glowing, internally lit bar. Plants and modern light fixtures complete the elegant vibe.
On a recent Saturday night, all the tables were booked, so the host, dressed sharply in all black, directed us to a seat at the bar. His slicked-back hair and gold chain caught the light, adding a hint of glam. A similarly dressed bartender welcomed us in.
While perusing the cocktail menu, we peered at the back bar, filled with bottles of mezcal and wine, and noticed a mini fridge filled with 32-ounce bottles of Mexican beer. Wondering how these would be served at an upscale restaurant, we then noticed the freestanding gold chrome champagne chillers. At Marisco Boys, bubbles are replaced by chunky bottles of Tecate and Modelo.
With a chuckle, we ordered some drinks and settled in. The cocktail list includes classics made with a refreshing twist. The Fuego Fresa blends gin, lime, strawberry and green Chartreuse. A quick hit from a blow torch brought the "fuego" to this fire and ice concoction. Fresh fruit and herbs make their way into many of the delectable tipples. Mexican wine is highlighted on the menu, and of course, there is plenty of cerveza to go around.
The food menu focuses on Sonoran and Sinaloan-style seafood dishes and is split into many different sections, such as Botanas, Platos, Ceviches and Molcajetes. But the real distinction between the dishes comes down to price point. Do you want to drop $65 per plate or $15? On our very first visit, we went for the lower-priced options, thinking they'd be smaller and we could try more dishes. But just a couple of plates in, the generous portions derailed our plan.
The Coctel de Camaron would be the perfect appetizer for a group of four to six people. We were buried in a mountain of tender shrimp brined in housemade tangy, savory clamato and topped with sliced rainbow tomatoes, cubed avocado and cilantro. The creamy avocado and shrimp balanced the acidity of the lime and tomato, for a not-too-sour bite. Crisp tostadas served as spoons to dig out.
Another mountain landed on the table with the Yellowtail Tostada. This may be the ultimate summer dish. Cold cubes of fresh, raw fish were piled atop two crispy tostadas slathered in a rich, black garlic aioli. Strands of fried leek brought a punch of onion flavor and some crispy texture to the tender fish. Cubes of avocado brought creaminess and salsa negra added a hint of salt. Any time the temperatures top 110, this tostada and a refreshing cocktail will be calling our name.
Next up, we opted for some tacos. The Gobernador, folded over and packed with shrimp and cheese, was the perfect backdrop for a bright green, herbaceous salsa. And the Vampiro de Marlin, a new addition to the menu, was served open-faced, loaded with shredded fish and topped with a bright, citrus slaw. Both of the cooked dishes were delicious, and left us eager to come back and try more.
But there's something about cold, fresh fish on a hot summer day that hits the spot. This summer, catch us at Marisco Boys' bar, cocktail and tostada in hand.
