Before the summer of "Gangnam Style," the rise of BTS and the K-drama invasion, a handful of mom-and-pop Korean restaurants held down the fort, but suddenly we're awash with a bevy of international Korean chains. Some of them may have a leg up on a specific dish or genre, but as an all-purpose destination for a variety of soulful homestyle food, it's tough to beat Hodori, the grande dame of the Phoenix Korean scene. Now owned by a former employee, Hodori remains as tasty and comforting as ever. Kimchi or seafood pajeon kick things off with a crisp crust and supple interior. Cold noodles like fiery bibim kuksoo or the ice-flecked broth of mul neung myun feel like they were made for Arizona. The barbecue won't match that of the better KBBQ joints, but it's still quite good and the perfect complement to Hodori's outstanding soups and stews. And mountainous shared platters like the bosam — pork belly wrapped in cabbage with kimchi and doenjang — or a cauldron of budae jungol, with its ramen noodles and thick slices of Spam, make this the perfect place to bring a horde of friends or family.