Rene Andrade and Roberto Centeno continue to tear it up at their thumping boombox of a restaurant that's as brash and bratty as it is delicious. You'd think the novelty would wear off eventually — this is Phoenix, after all — but Bacanora remains the hottest table in town, and rightfully so. The cousins' contemporary Sonoran cuisine arrived as a statement and endures as a mission, humble Mexican roots filtered through the eyes of a pair of talented chefs and forged in the fire of the wood-burning grill in back. Killer agave-based cocktails give way to grilled meats infused with smoke and fire, paired with charred vegetables, tortillas and beans so good they could pull off a one-man show. But the excellence is in the detail: the subtlety of the seasoning in a watermelon salad, the balance of flavors in a bowl of birria, the care taken with something as mundane as a roasted potato. Bacanora may look and feel like a party, but it's a laboratory in disguise, meticulously extracting every last bit of flavor from its Sonoran roots.